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I have always wanted to use one of these valves since I bought my truck. I can't shake the thought of something causing the valve to open and start to lose oil without me noticing.

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My valve landed with the lever up when I screwed it on. I actually didn't want that. Pain to get to. But there is no way something will knock that. Also, its not a lever that just "open/close". You have to lift up AND slide over.
1. That lever has to be moved both up and over
1a. If your luck is the same as mine, lever up, something would have to rip through the oil pan to get to it.
2. Its under the diaper. I know that diaper ain't strong, but to punch through the diaper and move the lever... And you wouldn't notice? No..absolutely not.
3. They make a clip that goes over it. Compete waste of money, if you ask me, but whatever, if that helps you sleep at night.

Honestly. The oil takes a while to come out. Make sure the truck is running temp or your be there forever. I make the best of it, with the hose on the valve, I can move the oil pan over and do the filter at the same time. I didn't have a hot truck the first time and damn near put the plug back in on the first drain... I bought it, so I left it. But I'm not gonna tell you its a must have. Buuuuttttt... It ain't opening if that is all your worried about.
 

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I just use part of a cereal box folded in the middle right in front of drain bolt, and it directs the oil down to the drain pan.
 

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Did my first oil change with the fumoto valve and it was way easier! Not sure why I waited so long to install it. Definitely a must have for these motors.
 

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Did my first oil change with the fumoto valve and it was way easier! Not sure why I waited so long to install it. Definitely a must have for these motors.
Glad you liked it. Until I heated up the engine it took too long for me, I could take the fumato or leave it. You didn't have that issue? Or did you run the engine a bit?
 

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i've had this truck since December 2013 and always changed the oil myself. this truck is by far the messiest to change. before i got the fumoto valve, draining the oil and catching all of it was challenging. i had no clue there were 2 drain funnels when you remove the oil filter. thankfully the cardboard i had under ate up the amount that came out on one side. I do not trust my dealer to put the oil or weight i purchase so i do it myself with Royal Purple 5w30 and MC filter. using tubing for the valve helps a ton, just takes a little more to get the small amount left when you remove the tubing. EVERY SINGLE TIME, i've been unlucky with the filter not just draining through the funnels, it will also go back on that shield circled in the photo. there's a couple of small holes at the end of it. it doesn't matter which was the truck is on ramps (2 2x6 pieces of wood).

*google photo
 

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Right. I put mine up a good way on Jack's and it pretty well comes right out that square. There is a bit of a mess on the skid plate, that whole skid plate comes off pretty easy if your worried about it.

Other than when I dropped the old oil filter on the skid plate, no big deal.
 

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The last time I changed my oil I noticed there was alot of rocks on top of the skid plate, so the most recent oil change I just removed the metal skid plate.

Man did that make things easier. From the time I grabbed my tools til the time I put them away it was at least 15 minutes quicker than without removing the skid plate. NO mess at all to clean up, especially with the Fumoto valve draining into a kitty litter container.
 

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Still haven't hit the first oil change milestone yet. But it sounds like there may be a few challengds
 

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OK, so for my audi and VWs I just suck the Oil out through the dipstick. works like a champ. (Dealers, BMW included are now doing this)... BUT now that my service contract is up on the 2013 EcoBeast, I have to change my own oil... for the same reasons everyone else gives (half the time, the sticker and the paperwork did not match, and obviously one or both was wrong, and no one could even confirm what oil they were putting in - seriously!). So my question is, and I have not seen anyone discuss this.. but, can I just suck the oil with a hose out of the dipstick like I do on my cars? I know I still have to get under the vehicle to change the filter.. but I'd likely only change the filter every other oil change anyway. I change oil every 5K miles.-7.5K miles depending on temp (live in Houston) and duty, pulling horses recently, etc.
 

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I'm not sure about using suction to do this - my buddy does this on his VW TDIs and loves it (especially since his is lowered and it's a pain to get under his car).

But I have to ask why you wouldn't change the filter each time? The Motorcraft filter is $5 at Walmart. I don't generally shop at Walmart but I can get a filter and Mobil 1 there for about $35 an oil change. IMO It's cheap insurance and I certainly don't want flow restriction in the oil filter because it's dirty, or to bypass the filter and keep dirty oil circulating. Especially if you're towing a trailer frequently... But that's just my opinion and I prefer to spend the extra few bucks for the peace of mind.

If you're using a full synthetic, I'd almost be more inclined to keep the oil in there for 10K and change the filter at 5K miles since it doesn't break down (assuming fuel dilution is not a problem in your motor).
 

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I've herd about this on VWs but didn't give it much thought on the Ford. I assume the dipstick tube goes down to the bottom of the pan in order to check the level. I don't see this hurting anything as long as it takes out 90-95% of the oil.

An oil filter relocation kit might be a good investment as well.
 

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I don't know if this has been mentioned yet, but the 2.7s, you must wait 15 minutes after an oil change OR after you stop the motor to check the oil on the dipstick. Best is to let it sit over night. This means don't let some person at a Oil Change place start your engine and keep adding until it hits the fill line ... you'll be overfilled!

Apparently, due to the new "start-stop" feature, the engine is design to hold oil longer in the top-end. Why Ford didn't have a "Cold & Hot" line on the dipstick, don't know.

And I don't know if this also applies to the 3.5 (pre start-stop). But it's something to watch out for.
 

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I don't know if this has been mentioned yet, but the 2.7s, you must wait 15 minutes after an oil change OR after you stop the motor to check the oil on the dipstick. Best is to let it sit over night. This means don't let some person at a Oil Change place start your engine and keep adding until it hits the fill line ... you'll be overfilled!
I can totally attest to this after changing my dad's 2.7's oil. I add exactly 6 quarts then have him park it in the garage overnight and check the dipstick in the morning
 

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My concern Miles, are the guys who take their trucks to a "Mr Quick Lube", where many of the workers are fresh out of high school, didn't graduate in the "top half of the class" and keep adding oil after they told the customer to turn their 2.7 on for a few minutes and then turn it off to check.
 

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My concern Miles, are the guys who take their trucks to a "Mr Quick Lube", where many of the workers are fresh out of high school, didn't graduate in the "top half of the class" and keep adding oil after they told the customer to turn their 2.7 on for a few minutes and then turn it off to check.
Oh, I completely understand. I was just speaking from my experience with the 2.7.
 

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Oh, I completely understand. I was just speaking from my experience with the 2.7.
I am glad someone can actually confirm this, so people with 2.7s won't accidentally half their engines overfilled with oil (and cause a major malfunction where the warranty claim is denied).

Again, I think Ford should had put a "Hot & Cold" line on the dipstick ...
 
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