That thread ends stating the OP made it all up.Here is something to think about which is the Motorcraft oil filter made by Purolator. There have been problems at the plant. While I believe the chance of the filter causing it is remote or even not at all I must throw this thread out there for all to read. After reading this I stopped using the Motorcraft filter and switched to Royal Purple. The Mobil 1, Redline and Royal Purple filter is made by Champ Labs and well reguarded.
Problems at the Purolator Plant
After reading this I shyed away from the Motorcraft filter. Again chances of thr filter causing it are remote, but I would rather use a different filter.
On my 2011, there’s a cute little device below the filter that sends the oil out of a big hole in the skid (used to be a rubber insert in said big hole that the stealership stole I mean “lost”...) still leaves a bunch of oil up there though that I try to wipe up and rinse out.If that is the case, then why is my filter full when I change it and oil pouring all over the top of the skid plate going out of multiple holes?
On my 2011, there’s a cute little device below the filter that sends the oil out of a big hole in the skid (used to be a rubber insert in said big hole that the stealership stole I mean “lost”...) still leaves a bunch of oil up there though that I try to wipe up and rinse out.
Not sure a full oil filter at the bottom side of the motor indicates that oil hasn’t drained out of the top side including your tensioner and phasers though, but does make a feller think!
Have you ever done oil analysis?First of all, thanks to the OP for sharing all experience & research. I have a 2014 Tremor with 25K miles. RX catch can since 5K miles and 5W-30 Mobile 1 full synthetic every 5K miles. I live in cold country, so in the winters, there's lots of idle warm-up and short trips - the catch can collects a ton of stuff (besides water in the winter). I've heard the cold timing chain rattle 3 or 4 times in the life of the vehicle for about 1 second each time after cold soak on very cold nights. 99% of starts, I hear nothing, except the normal noises.
I'm now coming up to the end of my 5 year power train warranty and while I believe I am fine now, I'm naturally concerned about longevity. This leads me to the OPs post. After some long thought, I decided to take his recommendation and switch to Mobile 1 5W-40 Delvac ESP - nothing to lose at this point from a warranty standpoint. For sub-zero cold starts, I will prime first with foot to the floor during cranking, since the oil will be a little thicker.
Now, we are all familiar with the usual injector ticking, HPFP ticking and other various 'normal' noises associated with this engine. When starting it up after the oil change, I was shocked at how much quieter it instantly became. Even after cold soak for a few hours, On startup and when idling, it seems like the engine became 50% quieter (never this quiet even on day one). Yes, it may be a small risk, but my initial impressions are that this engine sure likes this oil!
I value real-world experience, especially with a fleet of vehicles. I understand what the OP meant by being more business-like and refined. Thanks.
1) I have not done oil analysis.Have you ever done oil analysis?
Do you do WOT pulls regularly?
How cold are we talking?
If worried primarily about cold start, go to 0W-40.
Long idle times in winter on stock tune will dump a **** ton of fuel and that will get into oil. Combine that with short trips where it cant clean it out, you could have had bad oil, even with 5k change. Winter+short trips=severe conditions.1) I have not done oil analysis.
2) I do WOT pulls a few times a week, but less in the winter.
3) Could be zero to -20 F.
4) Always OEM filter.
5) Yes, 0W-40 would have been a good winter choice.
As I stated, I think I am fine, but looking for that long-term edge. If I run into any cold start issues, I'll change to 0W-40. I was just very surprised at the 'normal' noise reduction with stated oil.