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If that is the case, then why is my filter full when I change it and oil pouring all over the top of the skid plate going out of multiple holes?
You know it's 100% full or half full?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I wanted to include the difference between Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W30 viscosity versus Shell Rotella T6 5W30 Multivehicle. Look at how Shell is at around mid 10s cst still a 5W30 but the Quaker State is mid 7s.

This is a modified turbo Subaru I assume driven hard. It also dilutes fuel.

I understand this may not be the cause of camphaser failure, but I have to put this out there showing how the usual oils you know well get diluted while others you may not know well fare better.

If might point out tbe Quaker State had twice the iron wear versus Shell Rotella T6 5W30.

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Most guys here are running penzoil ultra plat or amsoil. Especially those that are modded.
 

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You also keep mentioning subaru and looking at other peoples posts for oil reports. While that can give you an idea of what oil is good/to try, you cannot assume it will be the same on your application. Different engine, environment etc.
 

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I don't really want to get into the oil debate too badly, but I run castrol 0w40 year round since 2011. Used it in my 2009 5.4 3V and now in my 2016 3.5 eco. 4k to 5k oil changes and silent startups every time. FL820S in my 5.4 and FL500S in my eco. This is in Calgary where temperatures go from -30 to +30C winter to summer. So far so good. Haven't smelled fuel in my oil at any time.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The fact is I simply couldnt find too many UOAs in the Ecoboost crowd but the Subaru crowd does a UOA seemingly every oil change. Of course two completely different machines, but similar issues.

In both machines sits a boosted engine that tends to dilute with fuel.

In any event I tend to think thicker is better. Anything 20 is way too thin and the decision to use that is purely to get by CAFE government standards. Doing better with 30, but I think 40 provides the best protection. Most Euro cars use 5W40.

So whether you use a Euro 40 like Castrol 0W40 or an HDEO 40 like Mobil 1 TDT its better than using any 20 or 30 oil. Not only does it offer best wear the engine sounds quieter too...
 

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5-20 is not recommended for ecoboost. It was in 2011 and was soon after put up to 5-30.

I personally think 40 is perfectly fine to run on ecoboost, however it is not needed in your application. You are a limo user, your engine won't be subject to high temperatures. I think it would be good for a heavy tow user. It is just like how Ford on the mustang is 5-20, but the track pack cars WITH THE SAME ENGINE has 5-50. Why? If you open track the car, it is going to get much higher oil temperatures, which cause the oil to thin, so 50 weight is needed and 30 could cause damage thinning too much. If you're just daily driving the track pack car, you could run 5-20/30 perfectly fine even though it says 5-50 in the owners manual.

With that being said, you still have not addressed my comment on your Amsoil test. The oil tested great and you are downplaying it. Then as I said, this timing issue may just be a design flaw that will happen no matter what. I hope you take my advice on servicing the trans fluid and manually shifting the gears.
 

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I have been using mobile 1 turbo diesel oil 5w40 since first oil change .Coming up on 40,000 miles no issues what so ever and i use a wix xp filter.
 

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Here is something to think about which is the Motorcraft oil filter made by Purolator. There have been problems at the plant. While I believe the chance of the filter causing it is remote or even not at all I must throw this thread out there for all to read. After reading this I stopped using the Motorcraft filter and switched to Royal Purple. The Mobil 1, Redline and Royal Purple filter is made by Champ Labs and well reguarded.

Problems at the Purolator Plant

After reading this I shyed away from the Motorcraft filter. Again chances of thr filter causing it are remote, but I would rather use a different filter.
That thread ends stating the OP made it all up.
 

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If that is the case, then why is my filter full when I change it and oil pouring all over the top of the skid plate going out of multiple holes?
On my 2011, there’s a cute little device below the filter that sends the oil out of a big hole in the skid (used to be a rubber insert in said big hole that the stealership stole I mean “lost”...) still leaves a bunch of oil up there though that I try to wipe up and rinse out.

Not sure a full oil filter at the bottom side of the motor indicates that oil hasn’t drained out of the top side including your tensioner and phasers though, but does make a feller think!
 

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On my 2011, there’s a cute little device below the filter that sends the oil out of a big hole in the skid (used to be a rubber insert in said big hole that the stealership stole I mean “lost”...) still leaves a bunch of oil up there though that I try to wipe up and rinse out.

Not sure a full oil filter at the bottom side of the motor indicates that oil hasn’t drained out of the top side including your tensioner and phasers though, but does make a feller think!

Fun fact, on the Tremor (maybe more trucks idk) those rubber inserts are not in the skid plate from the factory. The majority of oil goes out that hole, but it also runs all around to other holes too. I took my skid plate off after 8 oil changing and it was a quarter inch of gunk built up. That is with me sticking my hand through the hole and wiping after oil change.

The whole purpose of a good antidrain back and having oil in the filter, is so it can quickly feed oil to the rest of the engine upon start up. The oil of course from the top of the motor drains back into the pan. There is still a coating of oil on all the parts though, that protects on the first initial movements, and then oil should be feeding.
 

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So can we use any 5w40 synthetic that has an API SN rating (and not Euro) or does it have to be API SN PLUS? Answer to be made assuming no warranty concerns.
 

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You can of course use any motor oil you wish. That said, in my opinion I think you’d be best off to use what Ford has recommended spec wise. You may not actually be interested in “The Warranty” but you no doubt are interested in doing what is in the the best interest of the engine, they’re not cheap. You’ll find one or two owners claiming that they use this or that and they haven’t had any problems and they’re telling you the truth in their limited experience but why chance it?

There are plenty of top notch oils on the market that meet Ford’s specs. Without getting into a protracted discussion about what makes an oil a true full synthetic, I’ll simply say if it were me I’d use a “full synthetic” but that’s just me. Many get by just fine with a “semi-synthetic”.

Pick a leading manufacturer that YOU trust (Mobil One, Penzoil, Quaker State, Amsoil and the list goes on) and let the oil do it’s thing. Change the oil and filter regularly and often and in essence you’ve done all you can do. I think the often is the most important factor here and this is where I personally would deviate from the manufacturers recommended interval. I’m a 3000 - 3500 mile interval guy. I know this is probably not the answer you’re looking for but your asking a forum of members who more likely than not have never done an A - B comparison test throughout the lives of a pair of engines. Which piece of advise from which member can you trust? Be smart.
 

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First of all, thanks to the OP for sharing all experience & research. I have a 2014 Tremor with 25K miles. RX catch can since 5K miles and 5W-30 Mobile 1 full synthetic every 5K miles. I live in cold country, so in the winters, there's lots of idle warm-up and short trips - the catch can collects a ton of stuff (besides water in the winter). I've heard the cold timing chain rattle 3 or 4 times in the life of the vehicle for about 1 second each time after cold soak on very cold nights. 99% of starts, I hear nothing, except the normal noises.

I'm now coming up to the end of my 5 year power train warranty and while I believe I am fine now, I'm naturally concerned about longevity. This leads me to the OPs post. After some long thought, I decided to take his recommendation and switch to Mobile 1 5W-40 Delvac ESP - nothing to lose at this point from a warranty standpoint. For sub-zero cold starts, I will prime first with foot to the floor during cranking, since the oil will be a little thicker.

Now, we are all familiar with the usual injector ticking, HPFP ticking and other various 'normal' noises associated with this engine. When starting it up after the oil change, I was shocked at how much quieter it instantly became. Even after cold soak for a few hours, On startup and when idling, it seems like the engine became 50% quieter (never this quiet even on day one). Yes, it may be a small risk, but my initial impressions are that this engine sure likes this oil!

I value real-world experience, especially with a fleet of vehicles. I understand what the OP meant by being more business-like and refined. Thanks.
 

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First of all, thanks to the OP for sharing all experience & research. I have a 2014 Tremor with 25K miles. RX catch can since 5K miles and 5W-30 Mobile 1 full synthetic every 5K miles. I live in cold country, so in the winters, there's lots of idle warm-up and short trips - the catch can collects a ton of stuff (besides water in the winter). I've heard the cold timing chain rattle 3 or 4 times in the life of the vehicle for about 1 second each time after cold soak on very cold nights. 99% of starts, I hear nothing, except the normal noises.

I'm now coming up to the end of my 5 year power train warranty and while I believe I am fine now, I'm naturally concerned about longevity. This leads me to the OPs post. After some long thought, I decided to take his recommendation and switch to Mobile 1 5W-40 Delvac ESP - nothing to lose at this point from a warranty standpoint. For sub-zero cold starts, I will prime first with foot to the floor during cranking, since the oil will be a little thicker.

Now, we are all familiar with the usual injector ticking, HPFP ticking and other various 'normal' noises associated with this engine. When starting it up after the oil change, I was shocked at how much quieter it instantly became. Even after cold soak for a few hours, On startup and when idling, it seems like the engine became 50% quieter (never this quiet even on day one). Yes, it may be a small risk, but my initial impressions are that this engine sure likes this oil!

I value real-world experience, especially with a fleet of vehicles. I understand what the OP meant by being more business-like and refined. Thanks.
Have you ever done oil analysis?

Do you do WOT pulls regularly?

How cold are we talking?

What filter?

If worried primarily about cold start, go to 0W-40.
 

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Have you ever done oil analysis?

Do you do WOT pulls regularly?

How cold are we talking?

What filter?

If worried primarily about cold start, go to 0W-40.
1) I have not done oil analysis.

2) I do WOT pulls a few times a week, but less in the winter.

3) Could be zero to -20 F.

4) Always OEM filter.

5) Yes, 0W-40 would have been a good winter choice.

As I stated, I think I am fine, but looking for that long-term edge. If I run into any cold start issues, I'll change to 0W-40. I was just very surprised at the 'normal' noise reduction with stated oil.
 

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1) I have not done oil analysis.

2) I do WOT pulls a few times a week, but less in the winter.

3) Could be zero to -20 F.

4) Always OEM filter.

5) Yes, 0W-40 would have been a good winter choice.

As I stated, I think I am fine, but looking for that long-term edge. If I run into any cold start issues, I'll change to 0W-40. I was just very surprised at the 'normal' noise reduction with stated oil.
Long idle times in winter on stock tune will dump a **** ton of fuel and that will get into oil. Combine that with short trips where it cant clean it out, you could have had bad oil, even with 5k change. Winter+short trips=severe conditions.
 

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oil selection for the average temp non modified truck should just stay in factory spec.

15w oil in cold temps is only going to accelerate bearing wear and all of the 75% or so of engine wear that’s from engine starting alone.

thicker oil sounding quieter really does not mean anything, it should, but careful in these engines with too thick of oil. trust me there. one other note, our injectors alone sound like other vehicles with bad lifter ticking but they are normal sounding but they are so loud. 110% normal. sound doesn’t translates to much, you want to see what a lab can and we can’t.

go more performance, maybe bigger turbos, bigger power, you have more heat. Same in the hot summers, or with a built engine or whatever, oil analysis is the only way to know if what is being done is good or bad. i’ve had guys swear by their oils, then engine fails (likely not related) but when i tear down, you see the massive difference in why that oil and or additive package doesn’t work well for the application. oil analysis also doesn’t show everything. so don’t look at it as certainty


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I'm with Gearhead and change my oil at 3000-3500 intervals. I don't care what you put in there, drain it at 3K and you'll see that the oil is just beat to death. I know that's not a very scientific measurement of how well the oil may still be, but compared to the consistency and color of oil from my other cars at 3k, it looks and feels much worse coming out of my F150.

I think the thicker oils are just masking the issues in the design of the truck, and I agree less sound isn't necessarily an indicator of "better" for this motor. Nothing has been said about the gas mileage when using 40w or 50w either. I can't imagine what that's doing to efficiency in a truck up north during winter.
 
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