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If that is the case, then why is my filter full when I change it and oil pouring all over the top of the skid plate going out of multiple holes?
You know it's 100% full or half full?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I wanted to include the difference between Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W30 viscosity versus Shell Rotella T6 5W30 Multivehicle. Look at how Shell is at around mid 10s cst still a 5W30 but the Quaker State is mid 7s.

This is a modified turbo Subaru I assume driven hard. It also dilutes fuel.

I understand this may not be the cause of camphaser failure, but I have to put this out there showing how the usual oils you know well get diluted while others you may not know well fare better.

If might point out tbe Quaker State had twice the iron wear versus Shell Rotella T6 5W30.

Forester-XT-QSUD.jpg

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Most guys here are running penzoil ultra plat or amsoil. Especially those that are modded.
 

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You also keep mentioning subaru and looking at other peoples posts for oil reports. While that can give you an idea of what oil is good/to try, you cannot assume it will be the same on your application. Different engine, environment etc.
 

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I don't really want to get into the oil debate too badly, but I run castrol 0w40 year round since 2011. Used it in my 2009 5.4 3V and now in my 2016 3.5 eco. 4k to 5k oil changes and silent startups every time. FL820S in my 5.4 and FL500S in my eco. This is in Calgary where temperatures go from -30 to +30C winter to summer. So far so good. Haven't smelled fuel in my oil at any time.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The fact is I simply couldnt find too many UOAs in the Ecoboost crowd but the Subaru crowd does a UOA seemingly every oil change. Of course two completely different machines, but similar issues.

In both machines sits a boosted engine that tends to dilute with fuel.

In any event I tend to think thicker is better. Anything 20 is way too thin and the decision to use that is purely to get by CAFE government standards. Doing better with 30, but I think 40 provides the best protection. Most Euro cars use 5W40.

So whether you use a Euro 40 like Castrol 0W40 or an HDEO 40 like Mobil 1 TDT its better than using any 20 or 30 oil. Not only does it offer best wear the engine sounds quieter too...
 

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5-20 is not recommended for ecoboost. It was in 2011 and was soon after put up to 5-30.

I personally think 40 is perfectly fine to run on ecoboost, however it is not needed in your application. You are a limo user, your engine won't be subject to high temperatures. I think it would be good for a heavy tow user. It is just like how Ford on the mustang is 5-20, but the track pack cars WITH THE SAME ENGINE has 5-50. Why? If you open track the car, it is going to get much higher oil temperatures, which cause the oil to thin, so 50 weight is needed and 30 could cause damage thinning too much. If you're just daily driving the track pack car, you could run 5-20/30 perfectly fine even though it says 5-50 in the owners manual.

With that being said, you still have not addressed my comment on your Amsoil test. The oil tested great and you are downplaying it. Then as I said, this timing issue may just be a design flaw that will happen no matter what. I hope you take my advice on servicing the trans fluid and manually shifting the gears.
 

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I have been using mobile 1 turbo diesel oil 5w40 since first oil change .Coming up on 40,000 miles no issues what so ever and i use a wix xp filter.
 

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Here is something to think about which is the Motorcraft oil filter made by Purolator. There have been problems at the plant. While I believe the chance of the filter causing it is remote or even not at all I must throw this thread out there for all to read. After reading this I stopped using the Motorcraft filter and switched to Royal Purple. The Mobil 1, Redline and Royal Purple filter is made by Champ Labs and well reguarded.

Problems at the Purolator Plant

After reading this I shyed away from the Motorcraft filter. Again chances of thr filter causing it are remote, but I would rather use a different filter.
That thread ends stating the OP made it all up.
 

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If that is the case, then why is my filter full when I change it and oil pouring all over the top of the skid plate going out of multiple holes?
On my 2011, there’s a cute little device below the filter that sends the oil out of a big hole in the skid (used to be a rubber insert in said big hole that the stealership stole I mean “lost”...) still leaves a bunch of oil up there though that I try to wipe up and rinse out.

Not sure a full oil filter at the bottom side of the motor indicates that oil hasn’t drained out of the top side including your tensioner and phasers though, but does make a feller think!
 

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On my 2011, there’s a cute little device below the filter that sends the oil out of a big hole in the skid (used to be a rubber insert in said big hole that the stealership stole I mean “lost”...) still leaves a bunch of oil up there though that I try to wipe up and rinse out.

Not sure a full oil filter at the bottom side of the motor indicates that oil hasn’t drained out of the top side including your tensioner and phasers though, but does make a feller think!

Fun fact, on the Tremor (maybe more trucks idk) those rubber inserts are not in the skid plate from the factory. The majority of oil goes out that hole, but it also runs all around to other holes too. I took my skid plate off after 8 oil changing and it was a quarter inch of gunk built up. That is with me sticking my hand through the hole and wiping after oil change.

The whole purpose of a good antidrain back and having oil in the filter, is so it can quickly feed oil to the rest of the engine upon start up. The oil of course from the top of the motor drains back into the pan. There is still a coating of oil on all the parts though, that protects on the first initial movements, and then oil should be feeding.
 

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So can we use any 5w40 synthetic that has an API SN rating (and not Euro) or does it have to be API SN PLUS? Answer to be made assuming no warranty concerns.
 
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