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2012 F150 4x4 3.5 ecoboost
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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a 2012 3.5 screw 6.5 bed 4x4 80000miles and I'm in se Michigan ....timing chain loud at cold start...just popped pass side manifold stud...so the truck is in right now at my cousins shop getting timing chain and phasers, new water pump, this is where I went off the rails and justified to myself "hey it will all be apart".... famous last words... turned into CRP manifolds, new turbos (factory), spd adapter, catless MAK downpipe, Afe mach 3" exhaust, afe stage 2 cai, afe blade runner full cac set up, 170 stat, Ngk 6510 plugs, sct programmer with 5* tunes 93 perf, 91 perf, 93/91 perf/tow, and MPT 93 perf........question is... too much? Am I going to break it? What do you think the real world power numbers are going to be? I drive 30miles round trip to work every day and tow a 6500# camper 1or2 times per month in the summer..
 

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My ONLY concern is the 30 mile typical trip.
Thankfully you also tow and that ensures the truck sees some heat (burns off fuel dilution and condensation) and likely max boost on occasion.

Without the towing, that truck will spend very little time at fully operating Temps for engine and transmission. At least the last 5 miles each way offers chances to stretch its legs, if the roads are safe to allow it.

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2012 F150 4x4 3.5 ecoboost
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Discussion Starter #3
My ONLY concern is the 30 mile typical trip.
Thankfully you also tow and that ensures the truck sees some heat (burns off fuel dilution and condensation) and likely max boost on occasion.

Without the towing, that truck will spend very little time at fully operating Temps for engine and transmission. At least the last 5 miles each way offers chances to stretch its legs, if the roads are safe to allow it.

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Thanks! 20 miles is freeway 70mph + .... from everything I've read on the forum it's going to a whole new truck! Super excited to see what its like!
 

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Its gonna be.... BEAST MODE!-lol
You'll be instigating a few stop & go's. ?
Towing will be awesome, especially accelerating from a stop
Screenshot_20200308-114935_Google.jpg


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Nice list of parts. That said and I mean no offense but the large part of the HP gains are coming exclusively from the “TUNE”, though the supporting pieces certainly won’t hurt. As you’ve chosen to use the stock turbos each of those extra pieces by themselves offer only nominal gains. In fact you could actually save a few dollars and probably not miss much at all if you eliminated a couple of the add-ons (i.e. the CAI and the catback system).

I think the manifolds, down pipe (catless offers it’s own unique challenges) and the adapters may give you a few extra ponies. I’d proabably opt for a quality catted down pipe but that‘s just me. Old school thought and theory says to add the intake and exhaust if you want to get every available HP out of it. In practice and shown by many owners of these trucks cat back exhaust and intake pieces are nice to look at, nice sounding, feel good pieces but don’t offer huge return for $$$ spent.

Having said all that It’s not like your getting 50 (whatever that number might be) HP from the tune and then stacking an additional 10 HP with each additional mod. I don’t believe you are going over the top of the engine’s capabilities. Course every guy that’s ever popped an engine has heard those famous last words. :) Those pieces I mentioned perhaps leaving off add arguably very little HP but also won’t hurt you. If money isn’t an issue then by all means put them on. I think you’ll be just fine with what you have listed as long as you get your tune dialed in. I’ll bet you’ll really like it.

I’ll be most interested in seeing how this turns out.
 

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I'm in s.e. mi too. I'm going to need the timing chains addressed at some point. Could you pm me with what he normally charges, unless I can get the family discount too haha.
 

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I think what GearHead just said in MY brain is it's all about the turbos chosen in a build FIRST!

I know for me, if I choose higher performance turbos, then that determines what "bolt-ons" I need to spend money on not to be the choke point.

Stock turbos don't need much supporting hardware because Ford actually did a pretty good job. (Although I believe there are Intercoolers that are less likely to heat soak than the oem one)

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2012 F150 4x4 3.5 ecoboost
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Discussion Starter #9
Would it be worth it sending the turbos I'm taking off to a place like CRP to be re-built with their performance parts? Or another place? Not looking to build a drag truck, I drive it every day...just got a wild hair up my a$$ and decided to go for it...I just dont want to compromise driveability...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think what GearHead just said in MY brain is it's all about the turbos chosen in a build FIRST!

I know for me, if I choose higher performance turbos, then that determines what "bolt-ons" I need to spend money on not to be the choke point.

Stock turbos don't need much supporting hardware because Ford actually did a pretty good job. (Although I believe there are Intercoolers that are less likely to heat soak than the oem one)

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I'm adding afe intercooler with pipes, seemed like it had good reviews?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nice list of parts. That said and I mean no offense but the large part of the HP gains are coming exclusively from the “TUNE”, though the supporting pieces certainly won’t hurt. As you’ve chosen to use the stock turbos each of those extra pieces by themselves offer only nominal gains. In fact you could actually save a few dollars and probably not miss much at all if you eliminated a couple of the add-ons (i.e. the CAI and the catback system).

I think the manifolds, down pipe (catless offers it’s own unique challenges) and the adapters may give you a few extra ponies. I’d proabably opt for a quality catted down pipe but that‘s just me. Old school thought and theory says to add the intake and exhaust if you want to get every available HP out of it. In practice and shown by many owners of these trucks cat back exhaust and intake pieces are nice to look at, nice sounding, feel good pieces but don’t offer huge return for $$$ spent.

Having said all that It’s not like your getting 50 (whatever that number might be) HP from the tune and then stacking an additional 10 HP with each additional mod. I don’t believe you are going over the top of the engine’s capabilities. Course every guy that’s ever popped an engine has heard those famous last words. :) Those pieces I mentioned perhaps leaving off add arguably very little HP but also won’t hurt you. If money isn’t an issue then by all means put them on. I think you’ll be just fine with what you have listed as long as you get your tune dialed in. I’ll bet you’ll really like it.

I’ll be most interested in seeing how this turns out.
What are the challenges to a catless downpipe besides the check engine light? And the occasional smell ( I feel like I've been sucking exhaust fumes since the manifold popped) Thanks for all of the advise! Probably should have asked before I went crazy!
 

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You’ve hit the challenges of the DownPipe. Messing with the light would drive me crazy. Many have been able to defeat the light by finding a tuner that can/will turn it off (few and far between these days) or playing with restrictor orifices for the O2 sensors. Some actually like the smell of unburnt fuel from the exhaust too. Both of these issues are deal breakers for me. I ask myself “why would I put up with either if I didn’t have to?” These things wouldn’t have bothered me much when I was 20 years old but now that I’m 45... ;)

I thought about this some more. We used to run AvGas in our cars and our 2 stroke dirt bikes. We’d mix STP oil treatment with the AvGas to make up for the toluene that was missing in the fuel in order to have some lubrication for the cylinder walls. It smelled really bad. I couldn’t stand the smell while being behind either of these even back then. I remember riding with one of my friends who for the most part was just better on his bike than I was. He always had that awful smelling bike right in front of me up a tight pass or on the track. It was horrible.
 

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While I may have pointed you in a different direction if you were looking for suggestions up front, you certainly should not feel bad about the decisions you’ve already made. In fact, you can take comfort in knowing that should you decide to take the next leap in performance many of your systems are already up to the task. I think that’s an enviable position to be in. :)
 

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I'm adding afe intercooler with pipes, seemed like it had good reviews?
Gosh, I wish that I could tell you that I knew that was a good thing to do. I guess what it would come down to for me is how much it costs to do the upgrade to your new OE Turbos vs. buying a set of GT or aftermarket turbos. It’s pretty easy to find the data on the claims of aftermarket turbos. I have no idea what the upgraded internals provide. Knowing both ends of that equation should help make the decision easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Gosh, I wish that I could tell you that I knew that was a good thing to do. I guess what it would come down to for me is how much it costs to do the upgrade to your new OE Turbos vs. buying a set of GT or aftermarket turbos. It’s pretty easy to find the data on the claims of aftermarket turbos. I have no idea what the upgraded internals provide. Knowing both ends of that equation should help make the decision easier.
2011-2012 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost Turbo Rebuild Kit & Performance Billet Wheels – CR Performance Engineering Inc.
I came across these when I ordered my manifolds... might give it a try with my old turbos?!?!
 

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I added the afe stage 2 intake on my truck a while back, as already stated, i did not notice much performance gain, but it does look cool under the hood, and I can definitely hear the turbos more, so in my eyes it made it worth it.
 
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