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I have read up on the common problems associated with the IWEs.. unfortunately I’m at the point where I don’t know what to do next..

I have been having problems with the IWE’s partially engaging for some time now.. (several months).. some times i will get the humming/grinding while just running around in 2wd.. other times it gives me grief when returning from 4wd to 2wd.. at which point I will have to go back into 4wd to 2wd (sometimes several times before the noise will disappear).. truck is still under warranty and the dealership has been trying to fix the problem.. TSB 18-2273 was performed, actuators/hubs, check valve all replaced.. that didn’t fix the problem, it went back to the dealership, they found a slow leak in check valve, replaced it again. Truck still experiencing these problems.. it’s been in and out a few times to the dealership, sometimes it comes back and they say everything checked out fine, even though I have taken techs out with me for test drives and they have heard it themselves.. most recently, truck stayed in shop for a couple days, they replaced the solenoid, and thought they had a fix.. I drove the truck back and all seemed fine, even when engaging 4wd and going back to 2wd it was smooth. Later that day the problem came back yet again... anyone had this much of a headache with the IWE’s? While the problem is intermittent, when it acts up, it can take quite a while sometimes to get back into 2wd without any issues.. I would think if there was a leak in the line the problem would be much more consistent? Any ideas of what else to look into?
Thanks in advance.
 

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I'd look at replacing the lines, I had intermittent problems with mine and had replaced other items with no luck until replacing the lines.
 

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I have read up on the common problems associated with the IWEs.. unfortunately I’m at the point where I don’t know what to do next..

I have been having problems with the IWE’s partially engaging for some time now.. (several months).. some times i will get the humming/grinding while just running around in 2wd.. other times it gives me grief when returning from 4wd to 2wd.. at which point I will have to go back into 4wd to 2wd (sometimes several times before the noise will disappear).. truck is still under warranty and the dealership has been trying to fix the problem.. TSB 18-2273 was performed, actuators/hubs, check valve all replaced.. that didn’t fix the problem, it went back to the dealership, they found a slow leak in check valve, replaced it again. Truck still experiencing these problems.. it’s been in and out a few times to the dealership, sometimes it comes back and they say everything checked out fine, even though I have taken techs out with me for test drives and they have heard it themselves.. most recently, truck stayed in shop for a couple days, they replaced the solenoid, and thought they had a fix.. I drove the truck back and all seemed fine, even when engaging 4wd and going back to 2wd it was smooth. Later that day the problem came back yet again... anyone had this much of a headache with the IWE’s? While the problem is intermittent, when it acts up, it can take quite a while sometimes to get back into 2wd without any issues.. I would think if there was a leak in the line the problem would be much more consistent? Any ideas of what else to look into?
Thanks in advance.
I have a 2017 3.5eb with 15k miles and had a similar grinding noise under acceleration in 2WD only. My noise was consistent and would immediately go away in 4wd, and then immediately return when switching back to 2wd.

Dealer fixed IWE right away and it fixed the issue. The tech said it is a common issue with a vacuum line that keeps the vehicle in 2wd but did not state how often they wear out. I will say, I have put 3k miles on the truck since the fix and I am starting to hear a very similar noise return. Not sure if it is wastegate or IWE again. I drive pretty soft since I am in traffic 90% of the time..
 

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IWE Eliminator kit...fix the problems permanently.

AK4wheeler
I saw a few cons on installing the eliminator kit but it was an old post on a 2004. Are a lot of people running these with no negative effects on 4wd, driveability, etc...??
 

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I saw a few cons on installing the eliminator kit but it was an old post on a 2004. Are a lot of people running these with no negative effects on 4wd, driveability, etc...??
Other than losing 1-2 mpg...no adverse problems that I have read.

At least the 4wd system will be available when it is needed. When the IWEs decide to go, you lose the ability to lock your front hubs, so you have no 4wd capability. The Eliminator kit permanently locks the front hubs and your x-fer case enables your front differential. When my IWEs went out the first time, I was in the woods scouting hunting areas and had to be towed out. The second time was when we had a snow storm hit and I got stuck going up my driveway because my front wheels were not pulling.

I currently run the stock IWE system on my truck (14 F150 w/30K) that has been replaced by Ford in Mar 2017 ($1300) and Jan 2018 ($1100)...when this system gives me problems again, I will be installing the eliminator kit.

AK4wheeler
 

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That sucks - I had a hum in my driver's side hub and I traced it to the IWE. Replaced it myself (2013 - no warranty 110k) and problem was fixed with no recurring issues in lines, etc. That said, the lines to it are just push fit vacuum lines that don't exactly inspire confidence, have you tried just putting a little grease on connections and a softly tightened zip tie on each of the fittings to give it a little "compression"? If you think the lines are leaking, the hose connections at the fitting are first thing I would try and diagnose, since they've replaced your hoses already so they're unlikely to be bad already.
 

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That sucks - I had a hum in my driver's side hub and I traced it to the IWE. Replaced it myself (2013 - no warranty 110k) and problem was fixed with no recurring issues in lines, etc. That said, the lines to it are just push fit vacuum lines that don't exactly inspire confidence, have you tried just putting a little grease on connections and a softly tightened zip tie on each of the fittings to give it a little "compression"? If you think the lines are leaking, the hose connections at the fitting are first thing I would try and diagnose, since they're replaced your hoses themselves already.
I found this. Which I believe should fit our truck.

https://forged-offroad.com/product/2010-2014-ford-raptor-silicone-iwe-replacement-forged-offroad/?v=7516fd43adaa
 

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That looks pretty shwank if you need to replace all the hoses. Not that unreasonably priced either.
 

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Surprisingly decent priced for what it is. I know it is just some tubes but it is a full solution for the hoses at least.
First sign of an issue and I'm thinking I'd include this kit in the repair. While I don't want to experience ANY of the issues associated with these motors, longterm ownership would increase the odds that I will.

With the aid of this forum, I will be armed with enough knowledge to address the issue AND perhaps do so thoroughly enough to not have a repeat of the same.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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First sign of an issue and I'm thinking I'd include this kit in the repair. While I don't want to experience ANY of the issues associated with these motors, longterm ownership would increase the odds that I will.

With the aid of this forum, I will be armed with enough knowledge to address the issue AND perhaps do so thoroughly enough to not have a repeat of the same.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Im debating cuz for $50 you can just do the delete kit. Hard decision honestly.
 

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Im debating cuz for $50 you can just do the delete kit. Hard decision honestly.
My thinking is ONE shot at improving/fixing the oem weakness.

If that failed yet again, eliminators absolutely!

I'm someone who switches to AWD and 2WD often enough that maybe that is helping it to stay functioning properly? I really don't know.

25,000 miles now and all is well. Fingers stay crossed. :)

With 5 Ecoboosts, none older than 2016, I keep waiting for one of us to have a bit of bad fortune. But so far only one 2.7 oil pan leak repair.

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Im debating cuz for $50 you can just do the delete kit. Hard decision honestly.
You can do the "delete" for a few pennies by pulling the vacuum lines and capping the ports on the IWEs and solenoid.
 

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You can do the "delete" for a few pennies by pulling the vacuum lines and capping the ports on the IWEs and solenoid.
Really? That simple? Thank you sir!
Will the OEM hardware take the abuse? I know the delete kit looks like it has strong sleeves but i know YOU would know a lot more than me about that ;)
 

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You can do the "delete" for a few pennies by pulling the vacuum lines and capping the ports on the IWEs and solenoid.
I remember in one of your videos you pointing out that it's a clever way to address the vaccum leak issue if you are off road and need to get back home. Zero vacuum = hub engaged!

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Will the OEM hardware take the abuse? I know the delete kit looks like it has strong sleeves but i know YOU would know a lot more than me about that ;)
It'll take less abuse than the IWEs being partially engaged and grinding everything.

The RCV eliminators were designed for Raptors that were really pushing it off-road where the stock IWE boots would tear or housings would crack. It still works fine in a standard F150, but any way you can just stop the IWEs from receiving vacuum accomplishes the same goal. They're definitely a more elegant solution, but...why?

I remember in one of your videos you pointing out that it's a clever way to address the vaccum leak issue if you are off road and need to get back home. Zero vacuum = hub engaged!
It's a good way to get home in any situation if you're getting some grind and want to preserve your hubs. If you're doing it long term, capping the IWE port or just killing the vacuum somewhere else along the system is probably a better solution.

I still make the argument that the IWE vacuum line is the main culprit in most IWE issues, and it only takes about 30 minutes to swap out. Why dealers and service centers don't just change the thing out first is beyond me.
 

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It'll take less abuse than the IWEs being partially engaged and grinding everything.

The RCV eliminators were designed for Raptors that were really pushing it off-road where the stock IWE boots would tear or housings would crack. It still works fine in a standard F150, but any way you can just stop the IWEs from receiving vacuum accomplishes the same goal. They're definitely a more elegant solution, but...why?



It's a good way to get home in any situation if you're getting some grind and want to preserve your hubs. If you're doing it long term, capping the IWE port or just killing the vacuum somewhere else along the system is probably a better solution.

I still make the argument that the IWE vacuum line is the main culprit in most IWE issues, and it only takes about 30 minutes to swap out. Why dealers and service centers don't just change the thing out first is beyond me.
Honestly I had NO idea about just removing the vacuum. I assumed you could do it near the firewall where the solenoid is and just cap it off there?

When I took my truck to the dealer for the IWE it was a mess. I had to tell the dealer how the IWE worked and what to look for specifically. After 4 hours they came back and said they found the issue and fixed it after I gave them guidance. I hate feeling like that. I want the dealer to school me. Not the other way around.
 

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Honestly I had NO idea about just removing the vacuum. I assumed you could do it near the firewall where the solenoid is and just cap it off there?
Grinding only happens with partial vacuum. When there is vacuum, the IWEs disengage from the hubs. When there is no vacuum, the IWEs engage with hubs.

Where and how you stop the vacuum is kind of iffy. I don't know enough about the electronic side of the system to say if you can just unplug the solenoid or cap pre-solenoid without throwing a code.

Post-solenoid, you can essentially do whatever you want.

When I took my truck to the dealer for the IWE it was a mess. I had to tell the dealer how the IWE worked and what to look for specifically. After 4 hours they came back and said they found the issue and fixed it after I gave them guidance. I hate feeling like that. I want the dealer to school me. Not the other way around.
I feel ya. We're pretty lucky that most of the Ford dealers in town have really good service centers, but bad apples are a-plenty.
 

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Grinding only happens with partial vacuum. When there is vacuum, the IWEs disengage from the hubs. When there is no vacuum, the IWEs engage with hubs.

Where and how you stop the vacuum is kind of iffy. I don't know enough about the electronic side of the system to say if you can just unplug the solenoid or cap pre-solenoid without throwing a code.

Post-solenoid, you can essentially do whatever you want.



I feel ya. We're pretty lucky that most of the Ford dealers in town have really good service centers, but bad apples are a-plenty.
Well shoot. I really appreciate the info! I'm sure a lot will run into this thread too
 
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