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Discussion Starter · #21 ·






The arms are positioned so that the cutting board slips just under the countertop which keeps it from flipping up if you put weight on the end.
 
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That works really good.

One thing for sure is that ANY counter space that you can add using these clever techniques will be huge benefit in real world practice.

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Counter space is always a premium! My 26' doesn't have a slide, which limits the counter space. I may be stealing some ideas from here. Looking good Mass
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Since I put the larger tires on my trailer(that was another thread, went from a 185/80R13 to a 205/75R14), my spare tire no longer fit in the cage under the propane tanks. So its just been hanging out in the camper during drives and then I toss it outside while we are camping.

I stumbled across this randomly today watching a TFLTruck review of a trailer:


It stores the tire under the trailer and slides out when needed.

But then I was reading the reviews and saw what one clever guy did:

173406


173407


Great solution to my boondocking issues!
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Bench is done other than maybe some paint on the boards.





 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
It seems pretty solid. I am 195 lbs and if i sit on the edge of the board while its flipped up there is a little sag, but laying on it and sitting on it normally is solid. The board is narrow enough that if you sit like normal your butt and weight is sitting right over the frame.
 

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Nice work, still one of my favorite floor pans. We had the outback version of this floor plan, served us well even for extended 2 week long trips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I got the cushions for the bench in. A local seamstress made them up for me using a $20 home depot camping mattress.

Couple slight problems:




One cushion was cut to the right width(12 5/8”), but the other was randomly cut to 11”.




They are only 70” long. That might be on me. I had an old home depot pad that i measured at 72” but i did not measure the new one. I suspect it was only 70”.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Yup, so the one pad i grabbed at HD was 70”. Both my old pad that I have had for years and the new pad I just got today are 72”.
 

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Add a bolster to fill the empty space. Done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
That lady made me a second cushion to fix the first one that was too narrow. The second one was actually worse than the first. It was shorter and shaped like a Banana. I was so irritated I could not even come on here and talk about it.

So, I am using the original two cushsions, and made a little wall to keep the baby on the bench at night, and it all worked out great. Tons of room in the camper now and the space was really nice to have. The cutting board arms was also awesome. Made cooking SO much easier.

Now, I have started to journey down the infinitely long road that is the LiFEPO4 install. The first thing I had to do was get the correct shore power converter. This is built into my power distribution box(where the fuses and circuit breakers are). My current unit is a Proggresive Dynamics PD4045KA which does not have the capacity to charge an LiFePO4 battery. Only Lead Acid and Gel.



This unit on the left side of the picture consisting of the circuit board, Fan and a few wires is the actual converter that takes the AC and converts it to DC power and charges the battery.




Well luckily, Progressive makes a drop in power converter that i can install into the existing box with no mods, the PD4045LICSV: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Progressive-Dynamics/PD4045LICSV.html So now when I hook the trailer up to 110V shore power, this thing will properly charge my LiFePO4 battery.

The other step I wanna attack is charging while driving. Since the LiFePO4 is different than the AGM battery in the truck I cannot charge it the same way. My thought now is to pick up one of these things: Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger Isolated - Victron Energy

This lets me run a wire from the truck's alternator directly to this charger and provide the battery with 30 amps right from the truck while driving down the road:

Font Electronic device Parallel Gadget Circuit component
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Comparison between the two batteries:

91.2 lbs for effectively 101 aH:



45.8 lbs for 170 aH capacity:





So i have about 70% more capacity while also cutting my size and weight in half. Ill be removing almost all of the 91 lbs from the tongue of the trailer since I will be installing my new battery near the axles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·




The new power converter that can properly charge the LiFePO4 battery, and a MaxxAir II that i picked up off a guy on the local yardsale. Gunna replace the bathroom vent and fan with something a little beefier that can move some air.
 
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That’s legit! I’m currently working on a 450AH Lithium set up to run my CTC entirely off solar power (except for the AC). It seems like no matter what I’ve calculated there’s no good way to power a roof top AC without a generator. So my current task is trying to find a way to run a small generator that would only power the AC


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That’s legit! I’m currently working on a 450AH Lithium set up to run my CTC entirely off solar power (except for the AC). It seems like no matter what I’ve calculated there’s no good way to power a roof top AC without a generator. So my current task is trying to find a way to run a small generator that would only power the AC


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Put a good high quality soft-start on that roof AC and you will get away with a considerably less powerful generator.
And regardless of what you read about generators, it would be great if you could test the specific model WITH your AC before you buy.

I haven't installed my soft-start yet because the Powerboost does run the RV AC without it. But when I watch the load reading on the generator output when the AC compressor starts up it's amazing how much power it needs for the first 3-4 seconds. Then it drops to a fraction of that to run the AC.

I think a 2000 can run an AC if it can get help from a softstart.

You guys upgrading the boondocking capabilities of your rigs always fascinate me. There's so much improvement available over what the oem RV industry gives us.


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Put a good high quality soft-start on that roof AC and you will get away with a considerably less powerful generator.
And regardless of what you read about generators, it would be great if you could test the specific model WITH your AC before you buy.

I haven't installed my soft-start yet because the Powerboost does run the RV AC without it. But when I watch the load reading on the generator output when the AC compressor starts up it's amazing how much power it needs for the first 3-4 seconds. Then it drops to a fraction of that to run the AC.

I think a 2000 can run an AC if it can get help from a softstart.

You guys upgrading the boondocking capabilities of your rigs always fascinate me. There's so much improvement available over what the oem RV industry gives us.


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I want to say that my AC pulls around 1300 while running according to my autoformers. I can fire it up later today and get an actual measurement. I do know that AC, coffee pot, and electric water heater trips the 30amp in the autoformers before the camper breaker 😆. Forgot I turned the electric and gas on so the wife could take a longer shower 😒
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
That’s legit! I’m currently working on a 450AH Lithium set up to run my CTC entirely off solar power (except for the AC). It seems like no matter what I’ve calculated there’s no good way to power a roof top AC without a generator. So my current task is trying to find a way to run a small generator that would only power the AC


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Im kinda mad at myself for not buying a second 170 aH battery. While the 170 ah and a small solar setup would get us by the way we currently camp with no issue, that second battery would open up a lot of options.

I would expect even with a pretty large battery bank AC will work its way through the battery very fast.

Ive been getting along fine without A/C for years now but it would be nice ti have to keep the trailer from cooking our dogs if we leave them in there.

The weird thing is I ran my entire trailer of a 15 amp plug on my generator. AC, refer, microwave, all the lights on etc
 

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Im kinda mad at myself for not buying a second 170 aH battery. While the 170 ah and a small solar setup would get us by the way we currently camp with no issue, that second battery would open up a lot of options.

Yeah the biggest pitfall of Solar Set ups is underestimating needs. I sat down and calculated what it would take two adults to sit in the trailer all day and “work” remotely along with our two boys watching tv, etc.


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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Yeah the biggest pitfall of Solar Set ups is underestimating needs. I sat down and calculated what it would take two adults to sit in the trailer all day and “work” remotely along with our two boys watching tv, etc.


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Are you running a Weboost or something to work from? I usually don't have cell service when we boondock, but I have thought about getting one so we could work, but I just don't see work happening with a 6 month old and a 4 year old. Thats a few years off.
 
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Are you running a Weboost or something to work from? I usually don't have cell service when we boondock, but I have thought about getting one so we could work, but I just don't see work happening with a 6 month old and a 4 year old. Thats a few years off.
More than likely will if necessary. I don’t have the trailer yet as it’s still in the manufacturing process. In the medium planning stages if that makes sense. The way I see it, power and water are the two main things to engineer for a successful build. I’m trying to have the design as close to complete as possible so I can start looking for deals on the required components.


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