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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Bought a maxxfan to replace the dinky bathroom vent/fan.



900 cfm should be enough to exchange the air in the camper every 1.5 minutes lol.
 

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Bought a maxxfan to replace the dinky bathroom vent/fan.



900 cfm should be enough to exchange the air in the camper every 1.5 minutes lol.
Careful you don't suck the kids out 😆
 

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Got busy rebuilding my rear end last night and forgot to get a screenshot of my AC power draw. Looks like it's right at 1200 running. Camper pulls around 18w just sitting.
Font Screenshot Parallel Number Circle
 
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
New power converter is in:





It’s an easy switch. 5 wires and 2 screws is all it takes. Seems to be working as intended.

Now I need to pull the battery wires from the trailer tongue and trace them to the back. That way I can reroute them to the new battery location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
So it seems like what they did was ground the battery negative wire to the chassis up near the front, and the grounded the negative battery terminal on the power converter to the chassis at the rear.

Does this make sense? I can’t find any negative wire running to the back, only the positive.
 

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So it seems like what they did was ground the battery negative wire to the chassis up near the front, and the grounded the negative battery terminal on the power converter to the chassis at the rear.

Does this make sense? I can’t find any negative wire running to the back, only the positive.
Makes sense. The chassis is probably less resistance than a wire. It's also saving a few pounds and some $$ in wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Makes sense. The chassis is probably less resistance than a wire. It's also saving a few pounds and some $$ in wire.
The annoying part is that they ground almost all the circuits up at the front where the battery was grounded. So I’m wondering if I would be ok grounding the battery in the back with the power converter ground, or if I’m gunna need to run a ground wire all the way up to the front.

Like you said, the frame probably has less resistance than a wire so its probably fine.
 

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The annoying part is that they ground almost all the damn circuits up at the front where the battery was grounded. So I’m wondering if I would be ok grounding the battery in the back with the power converter ground, or if I’m gunna need to run a ground wire all the way up to the front.
I'd think you would be fine not running a ground wire all the way up, but maybe there's something I'm missing? Maybe there is more resistance in the chassis so they need the circuits grounded near the battery, and the power converter only needs to see chassis ground?
 

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The annoying part is that they ground almost all the circuits up at the front where the battery was grounded. So I’m wondering if I would be ok grounding the battery in the back with the power converter ground, or if I’m gunna need to run a ground wire all the way up to the front.

Like you said, the frame probably has less resistance than a wire so its probably fine.
A ground is a ground unless I’m missing something. There should be no need to run it to the front.


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Discussion Starter · #50 ·


50A resettable breaker to protect the main power panel. Its made in china so its gotta be good.
 
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·




Its up and running. Soldered and shrink wrapped the rings. Its only about 4’ of cable from the battery to the power distribution panel(you can see the panel on the right side in that second picture) so there is essentially 0 voltage drop with everything in the camper running.

The last thing I gotta do is feed power to the tongue jack and brake breakaway safety switch. I think I am going to repurpose the old battery + cable that ran from the battery to the distribution panel for this. Dont have to run a new wire and it should handle the power just fine since its 6 or 8 ga.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Battery is locked in place.



And i got the tongue jack and brake runaway wired in up front.
 
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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Random thought, but should the breakaway switch be wired directly to the battery with no fuse or breaker? The way I have it wired now its directly connected to the load side of the 50A breaker, but if for some reason the breaker was tripped then the breakaway switch would not work. I am thinking about moving it to the battery side of the breaker so that it is always powered.

The Tongue jack has its own resettable breaker so that will be fine wired direct to the battery as well.
 

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Random thought, but should the breakaway switch be wired directly to the battery with no fuse or breaker? The way I have it wired now its directly connected to the load side of the 50A breaker, but if for some reason the breaker was tripped then the breakaway switch would not work. I am thinking about moving it to the battery side of the breaker so that it is always powered.

The Tongue jack has its own resettable breaker so that will be fine wired direct to the battery as well.
What would happen if there was a short close to the battery? Will the breaker catch it? It's not directly applicable, however my rule of thumb is to have no more than 10" of the + cable without some method of killing the power. Like a fuse or breaker.

I may be on the wrong path here, I just try to make sure the risk of fire is as minimal as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
What would happen if there was a short close to the battery? Will the breaker catch it? It's not directly applicable, however my rule of thumb is to have no more than 10" of the + cable without some method of killing the power. Like a fuse or breaker.

I may be on the wrong path here, I just try to make sure the risk of fire is as minimal as possible.
No, there is a single 6 ga wire running up to the front which the jack and breakaway switch are both connected too. The jack came with its own resettable breaker. The switch used to just be wired directly to the battery(when it was still on the tongue) with no fuse or breaker.

My worry is if my 50 amp breaker at the battery were to ever trip for some reason, then my breakaway switch would not work. I guess I will just have to run a new wire just for the breakaway, but then I am still back to the fact that I have 28' of wire that could short and cause an issue.
 

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No, there is a single 6 ga wire running up to the front which the jack and breakaway switch are both connected too. The jack came with its own resettable breaker. The switch used to just be wired directly to the battery(when it was still on the tongue) with no fuse or breaker.

My worry is if my 50 amp breaker at the battery were to ever trip for some reason, then my breakaway switch would not work. I guess I will just have to run a new wire just for the breakaway, but then I am still back to the fact that I have 28' of wire that could short and cause an issue.
Just throw in a fuse close to the battery, that way you are good should there be a short. I would do a dedicated line for the breakaway switch, given its importance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)



MaxxFann plus is in. Its a beast, I almost got sucked out.

One complaint is that it freaking beeps every time you hit a button. If I wanna go adjust it at night while the kids are asleep and it wakes them up . . . .

The other complaint is that its no longer driven by the switch on the cabinet. If you turn that switch off, it forgets that it was on. So, if im taking a dump, and forget to turn the fan on before I sit down, im screwed

I dont feel like those are invalid complaints. These were clearly designed for people who don’t have kids and don’t poop.

The hardest part was taking the old sealant off the roof. I ended up using my oscillation tool and it cuts it off really well without damaging the rubber roof.

Also, I had to get 2” long screws. It came with 1” screws, but it was a 1” jump to the 2x2 framing around the vent hole:



So to make the jump through the styrofoam the screws needed to be >1” but <2.5”
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
So the fan is legit. I will literally pull the bathroom door shut and clear the bathroom in about 2 seconds.

I ordered a different fan shroud. This is the Maxxair Fanmate. It turned out that my MaxxFan Plus has mounting tabs specifically for this shroud and it did not require any drilling or anything. It just clips on:






So its completely plug-n-play and dont need to drill out my fancy new fan bezel.

Oh yeah and that is like 2” of snow. It snowed last night and all day today.
 
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So the fan is legit. I will literally pull the bathroom door shut and clear the bathroom in about 2 seconds.

I ordered a different fan shroud. This is the Maxxair Fanmate. It turned out that my MaxxFan Plus has mounting tabs specifically for this shroud and it did not require any drilling or anything. It just clips on:






So its completely plug-n-play and dont need to drill out my fancy new fan bezel.

Oh yeah and that is like 2” of snow. It snowed last night and all day today.
I feel like I need to get one of these for my camper now. The vent, and "fan" that's in there couldn't ventilate a shoebox.
 
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