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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ARRRGGGHH!!! I have been looking for the past hour and cannot find the thread that has the Jiffy tite fitting torque specs in it. I posted in the thread, but it doesn't seems to show in my history. I also thought I subscribed to it, but my subscriptions are all screwed up.

I am in the middle of changing my exhaust manifolds and I need the following torque specs ASAP:


UPDATED WITH TORQUE SPECS:
Coolant supply connector (on the block) 18 Nm (159 in-lb)
oil supply connector (on the block) Tighten to 42 Nm (31 ft-lb) FOOT POUNDS!
Both connectors on the turbo 18 Nm (159 in-lb)

Pretty sure the one on the back of the head is also 18 Nm (159 in-lb). Basically the small aluminum ones are all the same, just the oil supply fittings with the screens in them is a lot more.
 

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Discussion Starter #2

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That link doesn't open a specific thread for me. I'd be happy to assist if I knew where the thread was.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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2013 Screw XTR BCB Tuned
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Link opens page 1 of a thread. Only goes to page 5 though. Shows up to post 50. I did not see any torque specs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
In my notes from putting the motor in mine I have 18 Nm (159 in-lbs).
Yes, this is for the fittings on the turbo itself. Thank you.

The oil supply fittings that go into the block (they have little screens attached to them) are different as below. They are beefier connectors. Thanks SteveG!! Crisis averted!

"2. Inspect the turbocharger oil supply tube-to-engine block fitting and replace as needed. Tighten to 42 Nm (31 lbft)."

I have the damn service manual but it seems this info was missing? Gotta get back to the grind...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So that thread is fixed now. It shows 81 posts across nine pages ! Before I was only able to see 5 pages. Anyhow, tore into the truck to get the exhaust manifolds swapped with some CR Performance Engineering ones and man this is a dog of a job~! I was able to locate two issues:

1) The driver's side upstream O2 sensor was literally halfway UN-threaded. I was able to remove it with my hand! If you ever have to change the O2 on this side, go through the wheel well. Once I removed the wheel well liner, the access to this sensor was pretty straightforward.
2) Typical carbon tracking on the driver's side exhaust.

Overall if you have to do this job and you want to replace the oil and coolant supply lines, you're looking at removing or setting aside the downpipes (transmission crossmember), starter, ac compressor (all belts, etc.) , alternator, all intake tubes to turbos and intercooler. I did my timing chain myself and I must say, this is a more difficult job because the space is so tight, and you're lying on your back (unless you have a lift.) Been at it for 2 full days and I am still re-assembling my truck. I did get lucky that I didn't have any broken studs to deal with!
 

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Sounds like the PITA of a knock sensor I did awhile back. Most of mine was reassembly when I put the injectors on, powered up and had fuel dumping all over because I was a dummy with the seals. 2-3 days for someone not mechanically inclined or trained, in the garage.

I feel for ya dude. You have alot of time and work invested in that truck. I hope you get to do some enjoying this summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The thing is, it's driveable. I just hate operating things less than optimal or when I know there are issues there affecting performance. I want the truck to last so I am trying to keep it on the right path so problems aren't created down the road. You know how it is. . . Plus I still owe money on the loan for it.

As for summer, that's already booked and paid for! You can't really go camping anywhere popular unless you are a reservation guru. Most places have a 6-8 month booking window. So I just need to get the truck up to the next level of functionality and I'll be good to go. :cool: updated my SIG! Whoo-hoo!
 

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Yea I know how it is. Still owe on mine also, but still someone else'e abuse on it we inherited I suspect. Same deal here on getting it running right. Im glad I chased down all that KS stuff, holes in EBOV's, weep holes, getting anal on spark plugs and oil changes. It is what it is. I dont tow or anything but i'm not about to go back to driving cars now.
 

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You should put the torque specs in your first post if you don't mind so people don't have to come hunting through all of this thread plus the one you linked.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good Suggestion. Done.
 

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I did this on my 2016. I didnt remove the AC compressor or both belts...I only removed the belt that goes around the idler and the alternator. Was tougher NOT removing the AC, but overall I am glad I didnt.... In the 1st pic you can just barely see the AC compressor in the lower right side.
20190215_213928.jpg 20190215_215322.jpg 20190216_114255.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nice! That looks like there's more room at the firewall than there is on my 2012. I only pulled the AC because I changed that oil and coolant inlet pipe connector. Surprisingly the oil screen was really clean.
 
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