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Are those GT turbos heavier than the stockers?
 

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Discussion Starter #83
It looks like its the driver side manifold, same place a Broell, the long gap between the studs:



Red arrow is what i think is carbon, green arrow is the gasket, blue arrow points towards the rear.

I couldn’t get a good angle on this side, but i checked the entire passenger side manifold and saw nothing, and the rest of the drivers side manifold looked fine.

All studs are still there.
 

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Hopefully it’s not the actual issue. But if it is, personally I would pull them, have them machines flat and re-install with SS ARP or Ford Studs.


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@Blown F-150 if you recall when I got my CRP Manifolds, that I thought my manifolds were not totally flat at the flange (when I checked with a straight edge) when I bought them a year or two ago?

I took them to a machine shop, that confirmed they weren't perfectly straight, and milled them flat.
 
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Discussion Starter #87
My motivation to dive into this is extremely low. I have the truck up on jack stands and front tires off, but I cannot decide if I wanna just take the whole thing apart and see if I have a bad gasket or manifold, or try to retighten the studs again.

Problem is, retightening with the turbo on is impossible with a torque wrench. Some of the studs are incredible hard to get to. If I take the turbo off then I am 95% the way there anyways and could just pull the manifold at the point.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
TQ WRENCH? Crank them down. You don't need a tq wrench on those and I follow specs!
Right, I didnt use one last time. CRP suggested I retorque to spec, but I think I am past that at this point between corrosion and my previous torquing.
 
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Thats the thing, they are not new fasteners anymore, cranking them to spec pretty much means they will be under torqued.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Alright, well, i dove in. Tightened studs 1-5 per the manual before the kiddo got home and called it for the night.
 
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Discussion Starter #94 (Edited)
Did they seem fairly easy to turn?
No, I got MAYBE an 8th of a turn before I couldn't realistically move them with my 1/4" drive. But I still have to do the bottom rear, and rear most ones. Bottom rear one is a major pain as its right behind the turbo and last time I could only get a normal wrench on it. My crows foot kept slipping off and my 1/4" drive with my cut down socket was to big to fit
 

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Yeah, that's not a great sign. I'm guessing that something is warped or that gasket is not sealing anymore. Yes, I'm stating the obvious, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
How much of a pain is it to pull the oil return off the block? Is it just a slip fit like it was in my Jeep turbo?

This would give me a better angle on the one hidden bolt
 

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How much of a PITA is it to pull the oil return off the block? Is it just a slip fit like it was in my Jeep turbo?

This would give me a better angle on the one hidden bolt
Yeah, it's just a pipe and O-ring on the Block side. I'm not sure if you could get it out with the turbo there though.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
All the bolts are pretty dang tight. I did two passes in the pattern from the manual and am not holding my breath.
 
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Discussion Starter #100
It seems to be sealed again. I cold started it and immediately started driving. I jumped on it pulling onto the main road which is only about 100 yards from the driveway and no noise. Tried a bunch of pulls in manual mode in various gears and didn’t hear anything.

I guess well see how long it can go this time.
 
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