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Discussion Starter #101
We drove over to the reservoir near the house to hang at the beach and its chirping like crazy! How!? I abused it two days ago and not a peep!
 
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2013 F150 FX4, 3.5L TT, SCrew, S&B CAI, FR CAC, Solo OR Downpipes, 3.5 in exhaust, 5* Tune
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It seems to be sealed again. I cold started it and immediately started driving. I jumped on it pulling onto the main road which is only about 100 yards from the driveway and no noise. Tried a bunch of pulls in manual mode in various gears and didn’t hear anything.

I guess well see how long it can go this time.
Mass, I'm not questioning your mechanical skills, but did you use a new layered gasket when you installed them?

Is it possible that your heads warped? Is that even possible?

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Actually I think once that gasket is crushed, you need to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Mass, I'm not questioning your mechanical skills, but did you use a new layered gasket when you installed them?

Is it possible that your heads warped? Is that even possible?

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Yup. New studs, new OEM gaskets for the manifold to head, manifold to turbo, and also new hardware and gaskets for all the turbo coolant and oil lines. Oh and new nuts for the downpipes. I replaced everything.

According to CRP in their response a ways back, yes, its possible for the head to have warped.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Tasca parts is saying the oil feed/return line gasket is discountinued. P/N BL3Z-6N652-B

Does anyone know if there is a replacement?
 

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Call them or any ford dealer and tell them the part, they will tell you if new number. There is no way that gasket is not made anymore.

I use another dealer for all my parts, they beat tasca.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
I still haven't found reference to a replacement part number.
 

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Discussion Starter #108 (Edited)
Does anyone know the grade or tensile strength of the OE manifold studs?

ARP’s studs are rated at 180,000 psi which is >Grade 12.9. Their generic torque recommendation for their M8x1.25 180,000 psi fasteners is 24 ft-lbs.

I am kinda thinking maybe I use the ARP studs and torque them to 24 ft-lbs.

But as CRP mentioned, SS has a higher CTE than carbon steel. 1.5x10^-5 vs 1.2x10-^5, which is 25%. That means the studs will grow 25% more than the manifold. Its a minute difference over a 1/2” span but still will result in the SS stud “loosening” as they get hotter.
 

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Discussion Starter #110

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Does anyone know the grade or tensile strength of the OE manifold studs?

ARP’s studs are rated at 180,000 psi which is >Grade 12.9. Their generic torque recommendation for their M8x1.25 180,000 psi fasteners is 24 ft-lbs.

I am kinda thinking maybe I use the ARP studs and torque them to 24 ft-lbs.

But as CRP mentioned, SS has a higher CTE than carbon steel. 1.5x10^-5 vs 1.2x10-^5, which is 25%. That means the studs will grow 25% more than the manifold. Its a minute difference over a 1/2” span but still will result in the SS stud “loosening” as they get hotter.
I’m not sure I would be concerned about the additional expansion. Ford specifically went to a SS stud to resolve the same issues with the 5.4. My 2010 went 100k with the SS studs and steel manifolds with zero issue. I beat that truck like a rented mule.


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I’m not sure I would be concerned about the additional expansion. Ford specifically went to a SS stud to resolve the same issues with the 5.4. My 2010 went 100k with the SS studs and steel manifolds with zero issue. I beat that truck like a rented mule.


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Those are the SS studs (which Blown recommended to me) that I picked up to replace my oem studs, when I have my manifolds replaced with the ceramic-coated CRPs I bought a couple years back in anticipation that the manifold leak may return again.

They are copper-coated stainless steel.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Those are the SS studs (which Blown recommended to me) that I picked up to replace my oem studs, when I have my manifolds replaced with the ceramic-coated CRPs I bought a couple years back in anticipation that the manifold leak may return again.

They are copper-coated stainless steel.
I ordered the 8 pack of ARP studs yesterday. I think my plan is going to be to install the ARP's at 24 ft-lbs per their general guidance for M8x1.25 fasteners.

168370


I already have a whole bottle of ARP lube from when I was doing my ARP head studs on the Jeep.
 

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You probaaly already know this, but all arp is tq with their lube. ANyone else reading this, that is not your torque on factory part!
 

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Discussion Starter #116
So apparently one of the turbo bolts backed out or stretched or something:



The thing is, its jammed. They other two broke loose no problem but this one is stuck like this not even touching the turbo flange. I cant loosen or tighten it.

When i went it to tighten the manifold nuts, i also torqued these. They were all tight and didn’t even notice this because the bolt wouldnt budge.
 

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So apparently one of the turbo bolts backed out or stretched or something:



The thing is, its jammed. They other two broke loose no problem but this one is stuck like this not even touching the turbo flange. I cant loosen or tighten it.

When i went it to tighten the manifold nuts, i also torqued these. They were all tight and didn’t even notice this because the bolt wouldnt budge.
Soak it, heat it with a torch?
 

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Sorry to say it, but it's probably gonna snap on you. Any way to cut the head off so you can get the turbo off and have some meat to work with. Only alternative I can think of, is to get some MAP gas and try to get area right around that bolt of the manifold as cherry red as you can get it, I may come out then. It will be tough though as that manifold will absorb a lot of the heat.
 

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You guys not using nickel anti seize when putting these back together?
 
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