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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I am installing this 2" Hell Bent steel lift kit.

The strut came out nice but won't go back in. I've been trying to pry on the lower a arm and it won't go down any further and I need like 1/4- 1/2" more to get this guy in.

Now my EB came with the Heavy Duty suspension (says so on build sheet).

My measurement from centre of lower bolt hole to the top of the level block is 23 3/4".

I'm thinking I need to rent a spring compressor set to get enough clearance.


If you look at this picture, I can't get any more movement on the arm downwards. I need like 1/4". I could use a die grinder to cut out like an 1/8th" of metal on the spring pocket to slide it by but I'd rather not just incase I ever need it warrantied.

I am going to rent a spring compressor tomorrow (one of those threaded rod style too see if it will pull it in 1/4").

If that don't work I will be getting the die grinder out.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I'm damn glad I didn't go with the 2.5" lift. How the hell do y'all get these in so damn easy.

It's not like in the videos.
 

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Did you disconnect both the upper control arm and the stabilizer or sway bar? I believe that is what it is called.
I installed the 2.5 Rancho shocks and on one side (passengers side) had to finagle it in but it did go in finally.
The drivers side took all of 15 minutes to take the stock out and fit in the new one.
Mine is a 13 so it may be different.
Check out this link, mine went in exactly like this.
Rancho QuickLIFT Loaded - Truck Customizers
Good luck.
 

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I had the same hold up on my truck. First of all DONT PANIC!!!!!!!! Put the spring into place and tighten down the 3 top 15mm bolts. Grab about a 4ft 2x4 and place it on top of the spindle where the steering tie rod end mounts. Then put the other end under the spring assembly and work it up and down until the knuckle drops into the pocket.

Good Luck!
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. I'm picking up a spring compressor kit today to its onsale for $15 so might as well grab it. But I will have to try your advice.
 

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I did the first side on my truck in like 2.5hrs, encountered the same exact problem as you. After doing what I posted I got the second side done in under 45 minutes. Just rock the 2x4 to work the bottom of the strut into the pocket, and remember to remove the 12mm bolt that is holding the break lines so you have room there to work with as well.

Good luck and dont worry it will come right together. I posted a similar response to this on another post, (Anyone Level Their Truck Yet) I think, about the 3rd page.
 

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LOL reading your post was like reliving my experience. What took me the longest was finding a store on a Sunday that had a socket big enough to handle the nut on the lower shock mount.
Nice call on the brake lines, don't forget the ABS sensor as well.
I broke one on my F-350 removing the front spindles to get at the front axle u-joints for replacement. Spent more on the freaking ABS sensor then all 4 u-joints I replaced. Expensive mistake.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys for the 2x4 idea. I used my gut to push down on the 2x4. A pry bar to line up the shock and a 2 lb hammer to pop the shock into the socket.

I don't know how ill ever get them out aside from dropping the whole a arm.

The drivers side was way harder to pop in.

After dinner I had the wheel off on the passenger side and had it all done and popped in within 30 min.

Cleaned all my tools up and drove it around for 20 min into the ditch etc and down a muddy deep rutted dirt road!

Love it. Feels way better leveled.
 
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Thanks guys for the 2x4 idea. I used my gut to push down on the 2x4. A pry bar to line up the shock and a 2 lb hammer to pop the shock into the socket.

I don't know how ill ever get them out aside from dropping the whole a arm.

The drivers side was way harder to pop in.

After dinner I had the wheel off on the passenger side and had it all done and popped in within 30 min.

Cleaned all my tools up and drove it around for 20 min into the ditch etc and down a muddy deep rutted dirt road!

Love it. Feels way better leveled.
No wheel alignment? Does it hurt to drive it before you get one done?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
You have to drive it before you align it to settle the suspension. Every one has said it's only minor toe adjustment that needs to be done.

It is now 39 1/4" from ground to wheel well lip at all 4 corners.
 

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Good work winchested. I am glad to hear you got it in!
 

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After i put my 2.5 inch rough country leveling kit on i probably drove like a good 4000 miles before I got alignment. you dont really notice the difference but my tires were pretty messed up with the unevan wear to the out side.
 

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That's what worked for me too
 
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