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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello Everyone:

I’m pretty new to the forum, and unfortunately I’m coming here not under the best of circumstances.

In the last two to two and a half months, I’ve had my 2013 3.5L Ecoboost go into Limp Mode. Each time I’ve pulled the vehicle over and turned off the ignition. Waited a minute and restarted the vehicle. After doing so, I was able to drive off with out an issue.

Around the first time it happened, I had a check engine light come on and throw some up stream O2 sensor codes. I replaced those and the check engine light went away. I thought it was that but it wasn’t apparently.

I also had removed and cleaned the throttle body. Reading online that could possibly be the culprit. It wasn’t even real dirty so I didn’t get my hopes up that was the issue.

[EDIT] - So there’s some things I forgot to mention about my truck. It has had the following done to it:

• S&B Cold Air Intake
• SCT Tuner with canned tune
• One lower temp rated Spark Plugs gapped to .28 - [EDIT]

I guess my question is, what should I do? There’s no codes or anything when it happens.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this post.

Thanks,
Michael K.


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If the engine is being put into limp mode by the PCM, it will flag some sort of code as to why. What are you using to read codes? If its a cheap little code reader, those read Global and Generic codes, and sometimes won't register manufacturer specific codes.

On the other hand, if a wiring issue is coming about and the PCM is going offline for some reason, it wont be able to flag codes. HOWEVER, other modules will flag communication codes saying "lost communication with pcm". You will need a fully functional scan tool or Forscan to read codes from all modules.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If the engine is being put into limp mode by the PCM, it will flag some sort of code as to why. What are you using to read codes? If its a cheap little code reader, those read Global and Generic codes, and sometimes won't register manufacturer specific codes.

On the other hand, if a wiring issue is coming about and the PCM is going offline for some reason, it wont be able to flag codes. HOWEVER, other modules will flag communication codes saying "lost communication with pcm". You will need a fully functional scan tool or Forscan to read codes from all modules.
Thanks for the response. I do in fact have Forscan. The reader I was using was one of the more expensive code readers from auto zone. How does one use Forscan to find a code? How long does the code stay in the system after limp mode has initiated?

Thanks,
Michael K.


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Were you accelerating with you got the limp mode? If it goes away after cycling the ignition, it has to be you're sucking in liquid from the intercooler.

Pull the map sensor on top of the manifold, clean it with MAF cleaner. Put new motorcraft plugs in it, they come gapped at .30. Finally, pull your intercooler and clean it out. Or drill a small hole on the driver side and plug it after you drive it and force a bunch of the liquid out in boost.

This will solve all your problems
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I forgot to mention this in the original post:

[EDIT] - So there’s some things I forgot to mention about my truck. It has had the following done to it:

• S&B Cold Air Intake
• SCT Tuner with canned tune
• One lower temp rated Spark Plugs gapped to .28 - [EDIT]

Not sure if it makes a difference but thought it was important.


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Were you accelerating with you got the limp mode? If it goes away after cycling the ignition, it has to be you're sucking in liquid from the intercooler.

Pull the map sensor on top of the manifold, clean it with MAF cleaner. Put new motorcraft plugs in it, they come gapped at .30. Finally, pull your intercooler and clean it out. Or drill a small hole on the driver side and plug it after you drive it and force a bunch of the liquid out in boost.

This will solve all your problems
So, I drilled the Weep Hole, cleaned the map sensors last night and tonight it went into limp mode again. Is that normal or does that mean what I did did not work?
 

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So, I drilled the Weep Hole, cleaned the map sensors last night and tonight it went into limp mode again. Is that normal or does that mean what I did did not work?
Don't be upset, those are very good maintenance items. You said one step colder plugs, what plugs?

First thing I would do, is flash the truck back to stock tune and see if the issue comes up. There may be an issue with the canned SCT tune.

If that does not work and you don't have any codes, I would go with a throttle body. This is common failure with the issues you're saying. It is not the dirty part that makes it not work, it is the elctronics on it that fail.
 

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Since your running a canned tune your not getting that hot of a tune no need to gap down to .28 move it back up to .30. I used to pull the stock plugs and move the gap all over the place> no thanks!
Your still better than stock with the canned tune no doubt. I personally DO NOT like the iridium plugs. I run E 3.74's that do not need to be gapped; 3 yr replacement warranty. I swear by them...plus my truck is Not Stock-lol
You drilled the CAC....definitely a good move.
I'm not sure why you went with a colder plug?
Also make sure all that plastic is off your intercooler-do not need it.
Let me know what your think of the E's.




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Discussion Starter #9
Since your running a canned tune your not getting that hot of a tune no need to gap down to .28 move it back up to .30. I used to pull the stock plugs and move the gap all over the place> no thanks!
Your still better than stock with the canned tune no doubt. I personally DO NOT like the iridium plugs. I run E 3.74's that do not need to be gapped; 3 yr replacement warranty. I swear by them...plus my truck is Not Stock-lol
You drilled the CAC....definitely a good move.
I'm not sure why you went with a colder plug?
Also make sure all that plastic is off your intercooler-do not need it.
Let me know what your think of the E's.




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Thanks for the message. I’m running these: NGK Spark Plugs LTR7IX-11 (Stock # 6510). I gapped them at .28. Do you have a place you’d recommend for a tune? I’d like to get a custom one.


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Discussion Starter #10
Don't be upset, those are very good maintenance items. You said one step colder plugs, what plugs?

First thing I would do, is flash the truck back to stock tune and see if the issue comes up. There may be an issue with the canned SCT tune.

If that does not work and you don't have any codes, I would go with a throttle body. This is common failure with the issues you're saying. It is not the dirty part that makes it not work, it is the elctronics on it that fail.
Thanks for the positive reinforcement. Lol.

I have the plugs in gapped at .28: NGK Spark Plugs LTR7IX-11 (Stock # 6510)

I know I removed the throttle body and cleaned it good. Like you said though maybe it’s just wearing out electronically. I also cleaned the air intake sensor and the one just before the throttle body. I am thinking about reverting back to the stick tune. Just until I can get a custom tune. Do you have a custom tune on yours?


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There is also a sensor on top of the intake manifold.
 

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try stock first.

again, it is not the cleaning, it is the electronics. I am sure it will fix your problem...if you ahve no other codes/issues.
 

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Thanks for the message. I’m running these: NGK Spark Plugs LTR7IX-11 (Stock # 6510). I gapped them at .28. Do you have a place you’d recommend for a tune? I’d like to get a custom one.


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All I've used is 5* tunes. I'm very happy with them.
Ask for Josh.
20200617_095723.jpg


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Discussion Starter #15
try stock first.

again, it is not the cleaning, it is the electronics. I am sure it will fix your problem...if you ahve no other codes/issues.
You mean the stock tune? If so I just switched back today.


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