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Discussion Starter #1
Looking at ridding myself of that dumpster fire of a stock deck within the next 2 weeks. $500 budget. I'm sitting on one of three Pioneer decks with Carplay in the $300 range so I can score all the harnesses and an iMaestro within my budget.

Question 1: Whats up with those plug things that go to the door speakers and other electrical? I was in the doors last weekend looking to rewire all 4 speakers with thicker guage wire, soldered in, wire loom and all that, and I ran into those. What's the trick to working around those so I can ensure I get all of that garbage wiring out of there?

Question 2: Whats the preferred method of running an amp power wire? I'm not currently putting one in, but since i'm putting in a stereo, and will eventually amp and sub, I'd prefer to run the power wires, RCA's and the door speaker wires (Which also ties into the "Why" of question 1).


I already have 2 sets of Fosgates in the truck. 6x8 in the front, and 5x7 in the back. I've already spliced out as much of those plugs as I could in the fronts. The backs are reversed from the front plug, so I left those...

Any help on this is appreciated, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just ordered all the stuff. Should be here around Wed-Thur this coming week.
 

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Just ordered all the stuff. Should be here around Wed-Thur this coming week.
Which stuff did you order? Details man, details!!! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pioneer AVH-1300NEX, an Imaestro datalink, the harnesses, the faceplate. All in all nothing special. Midrange deck, and the accessories. I have decent speakers in the doors, will add the amp and other stuff later. I just cant stand that stock deck. It's horrible to the ears.

You got anything on bypassing those plugs in the doors to run all new speaker wires? Power wire for future amp?
 

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There is a YouTube video somewhere out there where they show you disconnecting the door jamb harnesses and finding two matching empty slots to drill out..etc, etc, etc. For my system, I decided to buy the OEM Kicker SoundGate system, then added my Kenwood NAV unit and iMaestro kit. Sounds great but I decided (like you) to go ahead and run wires for an external amp if I decide later. I bought a 8ga Kicker wiring kit from Best Buy and ran to behind my seat for future expansion.

AK4wheeler
 

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Pioneer AVH-1300NEX, an Imaestro datalink, the harnesses, the faceplate. All in all nothing special. Midrange deck, and the accessories. I have decent speakers in the doors, will add the amp and other stuff later. I just cant stand that stock deck. It's horrible to the ears.

You got anything on bypassing those plugs in the doors to run all new speaker wires? Power wire for future amp?
Unfortunately, I do not. I am more interested to see what you do to yours and how it turns out for the minimal money spent as I would be very interested. ;)

As for figuring out the plugs, reach out to @2016BoostedGreyGoose or check out his build thread. I think I'm remembering correctly that he dealt with those plugs in a really smart manner.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Unfortunately, I do not. I am more interested to see what you do to yours and how it turns out for the minimal money spent as I would be very interested. ;)

As for figuring out the plugs, reach out to @2016BoostedGreyGoose or check out his build thread. I think I'm remembering correctly that he dealt with those plugs in a really smart manner.
I'll check out his thread also. I'm really interested in removing all the stock wiring, as i've seen enough of it brittle and/or broken already. If anyone's read any of my threads, i'm all about removing variables.

I might end up waiting on running the amp wires until I see how this can all be done. Removing the deck is simple as is. I've already had it out checking out wheat was happening and why it sounded like dog poo.

Thank you very much for giving me something to go on, Elmore, and AK4!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Installed. Was a little tricky getting the Maestro software to flash. Windows 10 doesn't make that easy at all. Works good, the stock pile of crap will be good target practice over the weekend I suppose.

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Discussion Starter #9
So, upon use for a day or two, I decided to pop the Maestro out, and re-flash it, deleting Sync off the system all together. Got tired of hearing that 911 assist voice still, plus using Carplay, I have no need for Sync, and the deck has Bluetooth already also. Was able to reprogram my steering wheel buttons also, since I had no use for the Sync related buttons.

All in all, good deal so far. I enjoy it far more than the stock deck. Sound quality was drastically improved, and I haven't even added an amp or sub yet.
 

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Ok, so the sound seems to change daily still on this stereo, so my irritation, and OCD, has me bypassing all the speaker wiring in this thing. Gonna pull up carpet, drill holes, use rubber grommets, and put my own 12 AWG wiring harness in. Speakers and stereo are all new. Was hoping to not have to re-wire this. I will update when I get into it.

I get the very distinct sound, intermittently, of a + wire touching a - wire or a ground. My solution is that everything OEM gets bypassed. That cheap low strand count brittle wires, those cheesy plastic plugs that all the doors connect to, even the OEM plug i'm using connected to the iDatalink, going bye bye. Soldering in, 1 piece, and i'll try to be creative with the tweeter wires. No idea what this entails yet, but I have 6 hours to spare today, so it's happening.

Sorry for the rant. Just not the best outcome to this point. But if it's solved, it will be. Always eliminating variables....
 

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I'm curious. I have the kicker speaker/sub upgrade in my 2014 but still have the stock 4.2 head unit. Would something like this work with the kicker upgrade I have? Of course I have no clue how to flash the software and all that so might be above my head.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm sure it's compatible. Depends on how much of a headache you want for yourself. It wasn't something that was terribly easy. If you're not that good in the stereo install area and flashing firmware kind of stuff, might be something you leave well enough alone, or have someone else do it for you.
 

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Got the wiring done. Ran into a wall on that one. I could not drill through the door frame area around the plug. Had to run around the weather seals and bypass into the wiring boot. Not ideal, i'll have to fix it when I figure out how to get into that gray material behind the sheet metal skin. Definitely fixed the sound of the unit 10 fold. Stock wiring problem.

I bypassed every bit of stock wiring for the speakers, including the plug going into the Maestro and even the tweeters. Alot of damn soldering and heat shrink tube.

Glad I figured it out. Also glad I replaced the stock wiring with proper multi-strand 12 AWG.
 

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I'm curious. I have the kicker speaker/sub upgrade in my 2014 but still have the stock 4.2 head unit. Would something like this work with the kicker upgrade I have? Of course I have no clue how to flash the software and all that so might be above my head.
Yes...I had my Kicker system in my 2014 with my 4.2 OEM stereo, then upgraded to my Kenwood NAV unit with Maestro kit and the Kicker system still sounds great.

AK4wheeler
 

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Ordered a cheap sub box/sub that fits under the seat today. I'll use one of my 5 channel amps I already have to power the sub, and light up the existing speakers. Also ordered the power wire kit with a 2.5 Cap.

Brings me to where to run that power wire, and get it into the cab of the truck. I haven't found much info on this for the 2013 Super crew. I seen one guy taking apart under where the wipers are, but his video was very non specific and really didn't help.

Can anyone turn me in the right direction on this? I have wire loom, assortments of grommets, drills, grinders, whatever this takes. Speaker doesn't get here til Wed or Thurs but I wouldn't mind getting this set up tomorrow when the power wires set gets here.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Ordered a cheap sub box/sub that fits under the seat today. I'll use one of my 5 channel amps I already have to power the sub, and light up the existing speakers. Also ordered the power wire kit with a 2.5 Cap.

Brings me to where to run that power wire, and get it into the cab of the truck. I haven't found much info on this for the 2013 Super crew. I seen one guy taking apart under where the wipers are, but his video was very non specific and really didn't help.

Can anyone turn me in the right direction on this? I have wire loom, assortments of grommets, drills, grinders, whatever this takes. Speaker doesn't get here til Wed or Thurs but I wouldn't mind getting this set up tomorrow when the power wires set gets here.

Thanks in advance!
From the battery? There’s a huge boot with plenty of room drive side firewall...,or did I mid read something


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Discussion Starter #17
Me being anal paid off on this one i'm thinking. Found a plug about the size I was looking for. knocked it out, put a grommet in the hole, and checked under the dash up by the bigger plug above it, looks like my grommet. I'm stoked it all gets to stay on the passenger side also.

InkedIMG_0553_LI.jpg
 

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Got the amp, power cables, capacitor, RCA jacks, and speaker wires ran up to the amp from up by the deck. Seemed easiest to do it that way since I rewired all the audio already. Sub comes Thursday, all I gotta do is hook up 2 wires when it gets here. Also ran the wires and connected to the deck for my backup camera since i'm doing it.

Side note, that spot in the post above is money for running a 4GA power wire to an amp. Comes out behind the glove box, and easy run to the good spot to run them back. Grommet in the hole makes it a good snug fit. Made my job easy peasy.
 

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Me being anal paid off on this one i'm thinking. Found a plug about the size I was looking for. knocked it out, put a grommet in the hole, and checked under the dash up by the bigger plug above it, looks like my grommet. I'm stoked it all gets to stay on the passenger side also.

View attachment 153520
Now that you mention it, I do remember there being a grommet on that side. Much easier routing the power cable all on the same side


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Discussion Starter #20
Now that you mention it, I do remember there being a grommet on that side. Much easier routing the power cable all on the same side


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Indeed. Worked out fantastic actually.
 
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