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My 93 F150 has over 400,000 on it as of now. I tend to get my money's worth......or is it I am cheap?
Not necessarily cheap. But maybe SMART.

You gotta admit though that the 93 and the current one have little in common other than they are both F150's. And although I admire the longevity of yesterdecade drivetrains, they didn't have a chance at putting those smiles per mile that these crazy twin Turbo motors can.

Like I said, if my Ecoboost can actually pour its heart out for a quarter of a million miles...... That's making boost all the way around the world 10 times!

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Just to add my two cents, I would definitely at least test the sensors because that's obviously a lot cheaper than a timing job. P0016 does point to the timing chain in the worst case scenario but if it's me I would like to have at least the peace of mind of testing my sensors just for the sake of knowing. Otherwise if the dealership pulls the code and tells me it's time to tear the front end apart I will always wonder if it was as simple as the sensors and they wouldn't check them.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, I had an '07 with the 5.4 and that had the cam phaser/timing chain issue. I had no power at all times. It wasn't intermittent. When the timing chain had jumped the truck became a pretty paperweight.
 

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what about a knock sensor? Don't those monitor timing and adjust timing as needed? have you cleaned your MAF sensor on a regular basis? 250k aint nothing to sneeze at either.
 

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Another thing I forgot to ask, do you have a bad rattle in the engine bay on cold start at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I have intermittent rattle at start up. I think I will try the sensors and see what happens. Even if I have to tear into it, I look at it as maintenance. I can do the work myself, back to being cheap.....
Thanks for all the help!
 

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I have intermittent rattle at start up. I think I will try the sensors and see what happens. Even if I have to tear into it, I look at it as maintenance. I can do the work myself, back to being cheap.....
Thanks for all the help!
Hate to say it but the rattle definitely points to the stretched timing chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I was afraid of that. I think I will order the parts and replace the oil pump while I am that far down. The parts are 2 payments for a new one. The turbos will be next .
 

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Discussion Starter #28
So I got a obd2 reader. I have been checking to see if there is any difference between timing boost or throttle position. There are no notably difference from running good and running bad with them. I can slip the trans into neutral and shut off the engine, start if back up and all is fine. It is random when it happens and has no pattern other than popping up after you have driven a few miles or even going away on its own while driving. I know everyone say timing chain and I agree, but why is it random?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So as this continues, I have noticed the throttle body never opens more than 75%. The timing seems to be consistent. When the power is down, the boost is around 4lbs. Or so. When things are right, it is drawing a vaccum. My question is......why? It has to be a tuning problem. If it was mechanical like the timing chain or fuel pump or injectors or.......ot would do this all the time. I have seen others have the same problem and no one has ever offered a clue to what this could be. Has anyone found anything on this?
 

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Have you tried a throttle body reset?

 

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I hate to say it.... but that code usually points to a stretched timing chain. I could be wrong tho and it can be as simple as a sensor.
What is your opinion on whether it could be the variable timing solenoids alone?? My truck is doing the start up rattle but I don' t hear it when I do the pre start lube process (pedal all the way down turn key for 5 seconds). Thus I have one mechanic near me that thinks it may be the solenoids and I also need to change the oil sooner (5,000 miles vs 10,000 miles with synthetic oil).
 

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Since he has the start up rattle, I believe his timing chain has stretched. The loss of power intermittently, it might be the system adjusting to the timing stretch, I'm not sure. I am thinking it is related somehow. Heck I'm still learning how it all works myself. But when troubleshooting there is a general rule, you "usually" do not have double faults simultaneously. There may be a fault that leads to another fault, and another... but two separate faults unrelated is "usually" not common.

I found this video in my research on my truck and like how this guy explains everything. Also, if this guys right, I was the reason for it all happening due to extended oil changes... which I also suspect I'm not alone in this lol.

MAC

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="
" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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That's a well viewed and well known around here video.

And yea, shorter oil change intervals is pretty the doctrine here too.

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These trucks are pretty sensitive and a code would definitely be thrown if the VVT solenoids were working out of spec.

The p0016 code means the crank and cams are not in time. It's either a stretched timing chain, bad phasers, or bad VCT actuators. Possibility could be inefficient oil being put thru the VCTs. They have very fine metal screens and those tend to get clogged due to poor maintenance.

Rattle on startup is a symptom of stretched timing chain. BUT it could also mean your oil is very dilluted and/or the oil filter drain back valve has failed. If I were you OP, I would change oil and install a motorcraft filter.

Many also misdiagnose the rattle for a “stretched chain” when in cold climates or long cold soaks(extended days sitting).

Edit: In fact the truck would throw the usual timing stretch DTC within seconds of startup.
 

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Just an FYI, I had a stretched timing chain AND leaking injectors with zero codes. It is possible to be an issue without reaching the threshold to throw codes even if it’s unlikely.
 
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