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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK, new guy here... been researching my 2011 issues. Lots of information here, thank you upfront for all y'alls help! I did look for issues similar and specific to mine, found one but the OP never updated their resolution.

Just completed timing chain repair, replaced LH turbo, and replaced oil sending sensor and plug. All parts were Ford Motorcraft parts. Timing chain repair parts replaced were as follows

Main Timing Chain
Chain Tensioner
All 4 Phasers/Bolts
All bolts/gaskets associated with repair

Did not replace (but after research here I wish I would have)
VCT solenoids
Secondary Phaser Chains
Lower gear/pump on Main Timing Chain

After completion of timing chain repair, engine seemed to run good on time. At that point I learned the LH turbo had failed and when the engine would get to idle it would alarm low oil pressure... tap the gas (increase the RPMs slightly) and oil pressure back to normal.

Replaced LH Turbo
Replaced oil sending sensor and plug

After these repairs, engine ran well, idled well... stopped and restarted several times, let it run in driveway and come up to temp... no issues at this point. Started a test drive, drove for about a mile ok no higher than about 30mph. Started getting low oil pressure signal and some engine clacking noise, low oil pressure was at no RPMs and while driving between 1000-1200 RPMs. Turned truck around and shutdown, restarted and was just fine, drove for about 100yds and same issues returned with a CEL. repeated this process and limped home shutting vehicle down every time low oil pressure and engine noise started. Checked oil, level just fine. CEL code was P0390, cam shaft position sensor. stopped for the night and started more research. The next evening started truck, ran just fine in driveway, CEL cleared on its own at this point. Increased RPMs to 1000-1500 several times, was able to repeat low oil pressre signal at idle RPMs and while RPMs were up, no CEL returned and the excessive engine clacking did not return. I do have very light tapping coming from the valve covers but this was there prior to replacing timing chain (doing the light tap for a couple years).

What could be causing the low oil pressure? Was the P0390 real? When oil pressure was lost I believe this was real because it sounded like the Timing chain was slapping, and this stays tight with oil pressure correct??? Any and all advice is welcome. I feel like I am going to have to open it back up to check timing, at this point since I really have no break in on parts replaced I was thinking I would replace Phaser timing chains, VCT/VVT solenoids, and the lower gear/pump on main timing chain. of course Ill have to replace all the bolts and gaskets again... Are there any other recommendations.

Thanks in advance,
MAC
 

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2013 F150 Screw 3.5L Ecoboost Oxford White
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It could definitely be the VCT solenoids.

 
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
OK need some more advice...

Since the repairs are still new, only a few heat cycles... would gaskets like valve cover gaskets and intake manifold gaskets need replacing? they have only seen 1 compression and relatively no heat or service??? they aren't like crushable gaskets that cannot be reused at all.... any thoughts???

Honestly, I am debating on going after everything I listed at the end of my previous post or just pulling the valve covers and replacing the VCT/VVT solenoids...

Thanks,
MAC
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
OK... Update,

I changed out all 4 VCT/VVT solenoids, brought engine up to temp, idled fine, increased RPMs in driveway, so far so good. Took on test drive around the block (about 2-3 mile, a country block) and right back at my house the low oil pressure returned. Low oil pressure at idle, goes away when tap the gas pedal. Haven't tried driving again. If I wasn't bald I'd be pulling out my hair... very frustrated, ready to give up...

Anyone have any ideas???

MAC
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When looking up and researching my trucks problems on here... I saw lots of great help from a lot of knowledgeable great people. I was really hoping for advice from y'all. Looks like my next step is taking it into a shop I trust so maybe they can run some diagnostics and help me troubleshoot. I will update this thread when i figure out the issue so maybe it will help someone else.

Thanks,
MAC
 

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Did you change the oil after the repair? How "clean" were you in removing all the gasket material from the block when you pulled the front cover?
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I changed the oil after the original timing change repair, I changed the oil again after the turbo replacement, when I pulled the valve covers to change the VCT/VVT solenoids I did not change the oil... do you think I should have??? When I removed the gasket material originally I was very clean and careful nothing fell into the engine, I even vacuumed thoroughly afterwards just in case...

Thank you for helping.

MAC
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Went by my local shop I trust (they are swamped lol)... Talked with two of the techs, explained where I was in my troubleshooting and everything done to this point. They said they had seen a similar issue in a 5.0L and had given them fits, said they had found this issue on both 5.0L and 3.5L's in their research and the answer had been go to a heavier oil in higher mileage engines having this problem. They suggested start with 10W-40 then try 20W-50... I don't know about this.

Ok, so I understand putting in a heavier more viscous oil might help if the oil was too thin. But the 5W-30 is the FORD recommended oil. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas? Should I try a heavier oil? Thank you in advance for your help and ideas.

Thanks,
MAC
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Another Question... SORRY I just thought of this, I didn't even think it would contribute to the low oil pressure. During the original timing chain repair, I installed a UPR catch can system. Could this be a part of the problem. Besides the repairs, it is the only other thing that has changed... Maybe I should return to stock???

Thanks,
MAC
 

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Your issue didn’t by chance follow an oil filter change did it? Wonder if you could get one of those long legged cameras in the oil pan while changing the oil and maneuver it to look at the bottom of the pick up. I always think about this when an engine has been opened up. In fact I followed up a repair job by another shop one time only to find a shop rag around the pick-up.
 

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Went by my local shop I trust (they are swamped lol)... Talked with two of the techs, explained where I was in my troubleshooting and everything done to this point. They said they had seen a similar issue in a 5.0L and had given them fits, said they had found this issue on both 5.0L and 3.5L's in their research and the answer had been go to a heavier oil in higher mileage engines having this problem. They suggested start with 10W-40 then try 20W-50... I don't know about this.

Ok, so I understand putting in a heavier more viscous oil might help if the oil was too thin. But the 5W-30 is the FORD recommended oil. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas? Should I try a heavier oil? Thank you in advance for your help and ideas.

Thanks,
MAC
DNA did the repair himself so he should know but out of all the threads I have seen on timing repairs, I have never heard of someone running thicker oil to fix a low pressure issue. Something isn't right.

But I have no idea what the problem is because I would have no idea what to do. And the UPR should not cause any issue. From what I know.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
 

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DNA did the repair himself so he should know but out of all the threads I have seen on timing repairs, I have never heard of someone running thicker oil to fix a low pressure issue. Something isn't right.

But I have no idea what the problem is because I would have no idea what to do. And the UPR should not cause any issue. From what I know.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
Agreed, if this started at the time of the repair... well if it walks like a duck and it quacks like a duck...
 

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could debris (often timing chain guide parts) be being sucked up into the screen of the oil intake tube. It is a common issue for 5.4 3V V8s.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Your issue didn’t by chance follow an oil filter change did it? Wonder if you could get one of those long legged cameras in the oil pan while changing the oil and maneuver it to look at the bottom of the pick up. I always think about this when an engine has been opened up. In fact I followed up a repair job by another shop one time only to find a shop rag around the pick-up.
The original Timing repair did not start after an oil change, the low pressure started after the Timing repair which I did change the oil... I have been thinking about the oil pick up also... might try to do what you're saying, cannot hurt at this point.

So I decided to try the shop's suggestion even though I didn't think it would help. Changed oil and put in 10W -40. It's 2 miles around the block here, I made three full laps, each lap I stopped at my house, would shut it down wait 20-30 minutes then go again. No issues so far. After completing third lap I decided to keep going on another lap the opposite direction so I could get on a different road that gets up to 60mph. Got the truck up to 55-60, went for about another mile and then the low oil pressure came back. Shut the truck down, upon restart everything was normal and limped home. Had to stop and restart 3 times to get home... Drove for 7 miles total without issue, it actually was running great.... then limped the last mile home. So now I have had a few beers and reattacking tomorrow.

Thanks guys, still scratching my head lol.

MAC
 

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I too have this same issue and no answer. I have searched the web for an answer and only found more people like us. Everyone claimed its timing chain issues, yet everyone that has done as you and replaced everything, still have the problem. Mine will lose power randomly. I switch the engine off and restart the problem goes away. This makes me think it is a sensor or computer issue. Seems to be no answer or cure for this. I wonder if it is built in at the factory to make up give up and trade it in? My brother had transmission issues with an older f150. They replaced the transmission, converter, driveshaft and even rear end under warranty and never fixed it. He traded it for a new one. This seems to be the only solution.
 

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I purchased a 2013 f150 ecoboost with 170000 miles. I could tell the timing chain needed replacing. But before I could replace it, it broke. Replaced all of the phaser gears and chain set. Passenger intake cam bolt broke. So new intake cam. Went ahead and changed the vtt selenoids. When I dropped the oil pan and front cover, there was carbon/sludge build up. Cleaned everything I could reach. Got to thinking about the oil pump. I was in there so I replaced it. Along with the water pump. I did disconnect the negative post before I started. But it migrated back to the post. When I disconnected the alternator wire it sparked. Blowing the ecm spark out put. So I was told. Bought a junkyard ecm. Locksmith on his way to marry it to the truck. Fingers crossed that I don`t have to tear back into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I purchased a 2013 f150 ecoboost with 170000 miles. I could tell the timing chain needed replacing. But before I could replace it, it broke. Replaced all of the phaser gears and chain set. Passenger intake cam bolt broke. So new intake cam. Went ahead and changed the vtt selenoids. When I dropped the oil pan and front cover, there was carbon/sludge build up. Cleaned everything I could reach. Got to thinking about the oil pump. I was in there so I replaced it. Along with the water pump. I did disconnect the negative post before I started. But it migrated back to the post. When I disconnected the alternator wire it sparked. Blowing the ecm spark out put. So I was told. Bought a junkyard ecm. Locksmith on his way to marry it to the truck. Fingers crossed that I don`t have to tear back into it.
I have decided open mine back up... I am go to inspect and probably replace the oil pump as well as drop the oil pan to inspect/clean. I believe the low oil pressure is real. When it goes low oil pressure it sounds like the top is starving for oil... I immediately shut it down at that point so as not to damage anything else. At this point I have nothing to lose but go back in and see what's up. I hoping I find something, just hope the solution isn't a new engine lol...

Thanks,
MAC
 

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@wrmcdonald5, I wish you the very best of luck in this endeavor. You might consider pulling a main cap just for grins and giggles while you’re in there. You’ll sleep better knowing the bearings look good.
 

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I have decided open mine back up... I am go to inspect and probably replace the oil pump as well as drop the oil pan to inspect/clean. I believe the low oil pressure is real. When it goes low oil pressure it sounds like the top is starving for oil... I immediately shut it down at that point so as not to damage anything else. At this point I have nothing to lose but go back in and see what's up. I hoping I find something, just hope the solution isn't a new engine lol...

Thanks,
MAC
If you see a lot of sludge build up, You might consider adding something to your oil to clean up the oil passage ways. My ecm replacement didn`t work. So I ordered a new engine bay wire harness.
 
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