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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Looking for torque procedure and specs for 2011 Eco oil pan installation.... where can I find this info? NM I found the info...

Thanks
MAC
 

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I have decided open mine back up... I am go to inspect and probably replace the oil pump as well as drop the oil pan to inspect/clean. I believe the low oil pressure is real. When it goes low oil pressure it sounds like the top is starving for oil... I immediately shut it down at that point so as not to damage anything else. At this point I have nothing to lose but go back in and see what's up. I hoping I find something, just hope the solution isn't a new engine lol...

Thanks,
MAC
For what it is worth, oil pumps can wear out, even w/ regular oil changes. A lifetime ago, I had the oil pump on an old mustang 6 wear out, causing the lifters to rattle. After replacing the pump, all was well.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Quick update, pulled windage tray (whatever its called) the bottom looked great... no coked oil anywhere or clinging to anything, pulled a main cap and looked great. VVT/VCT solenoid screens were clean... so I think all the crap was in the oil pan. Looks like the oil pickup screen was doing it's job and trapping all the big particles from getting pumped through the system, it would plug, get low oil pressure, and I would shut down the engine... Once humpty dumpty is back together hopefully it's all good!

New oil pump, new oil pickup, and oil pan all installed and torqued down. Tonight want to get everything back on I pulled to remove oil pan, get primary timing chain and tensioner installed, and front cover back on and torqued down. Monday the rest will get put back together, hopefully test driving by afternoon/evening.

Thanks,
MAC
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
Hey guys I am getting things back together, need some help... what is this hose end that looks to vent by brake reservoir???
IMG-3165.jpg


I found the other end between oil pan and drive shaft/front axle and do not remember where it goes or even removing it from something. Heck I might have shoved it down there IDC, LOL... I know I'm old and many beers into this LOL, please help...
IMG-3166.jpg

Thanks MAC
 

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I just went and looked under the hood of a 2018 just to see if there was anything similar mounted near the master cylinder, hoping for a hint.

Not even close to the same. 2WD and 4WD examples are VERY different looking in that space, but neither show a vented hose end mounted.

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Mine’s a 2016. I didn’t crawl under it but I think it’s the vent to the front differential. On mine it connects to a hard plastic coupling that is sitting right on the inside of the upper control arm, rearward bushing. Take a look down at the top of your shock, it’s within a few inches of that.
 

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Should have done this the first time but didn’t have my phone with me. I’m no photographer but the tip of the screwdriver is resting on the connector.

167694
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Ole Blue lives again!!!! After several short drives around the block ...all good (no low oil pressure or rattles)... went on a drive up to 60mph, all good, turned around and gave a little gas to kick in turbo (just minimal) all was great no issues, no low oil pressure and no timing chain rattle!!! I guess when good Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic 5W-30 is allowed to pump around the engine it works ALOT better!!!

NOTE: keep an eye on coolant levels when first starting, level settles and needs attention.

Also... After sitting overnight after test drive, no leaks or drips of any kind.

Now to fix the AC... thats a must in TX 1000F heat!!!

Thanks for all yalls help and advice... hope this helps someone else troubleshoot their problems.

MAC
 

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You are an inspiration!

For sure your attitude. Nicely done.

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How many miles and what type of use did you put on the motorcraft oil typically? Def over it's capability.

How many miles on truck?

i find it hard to believe the VCT noids had nothing on the screens. Those are super fine. I would have replaced the phasers too.

Glad you got it running.
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
I have right under 143,000 miles, I always used the MC 5W-30 synthetic blend. I was shocked the screens on the VCT/VVT solenoids didn't have anything, but the coked burnt oil was so big the oil pickup screen was catching it all and plugging up I guess. I did change the phasers, I listed those in the first post of the thread...

Thanks bud it feels great to finally have it going again and it really seems to be driving great. Even got the AC working today LOL...

Thanks,
MAC
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Yes I’m going to be more diligent with my oil changes and I’m running Pennzoil Platinum now...

Mac
 

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Ole Blue lives again!!!! After several short drives around the block ...all good (no low oil pressure or rattles)... went on a drive up to 60mph, all good, turned around and gave a little gas to kick in turbo (just minimal) all was great no issues, no low oil pressure and no timing chain rattle!!! I guess when good Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic 5W-30 is allowed to pump around the engine it works ALOT better!!!

NOTE: keep an eye on coolant levels when first starting, level settles and needs attention.

Also... After sitting overnight after test drive, no leaks or drips of any kind.

Now to fix the AC... thats a must in TX 1000F heat!!!

Thanks for all yalls help and advice... hope this helps someone else troubleshoot their problems.

MAC

Hi Wrmcdonald 5, I am glad that you got this figured out. I think I am about to start this repair. I just got every cam position sensor code you can get, losing power at low speed, but no misfires oddly.

What prompted you to go in and do this fix? I have had a cold start rattle for a while so i expected this was coming.

Can you please help me out on what I should replace? I have a 2012 XLT Screw with 143k miles. So far I am going to replace all the chains, tensioners, guides, oil pump, water pump, solenoids, phasers, belts. And gaskets of course, did you end up re-using your old new ones when you went back in?

I am going to try and do it all in one go since its winter and I don't have any workspace big enough to fit the truck in. I might buy one of those car shelters and run my shop heater in it out on the driveway.

Anyways thanks for posting your solution!
 

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Discussion Starter #59
What prompted my repair... I had the timing chain rattle for almost a year until my truck jumped time and a turbo went out, so I had to do the repair. It looks like your list has everything you need. Someone on here has a great list with part numbers and everything... I cannot remember who has it, but I ran across it reading everyone's posts about their repairs. I will be glad to help if you have any questions.

MAC
 

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What prompted my repair... I had the timing chain rattle for almost a year until my truck jumped time and a turbo went out, so I had to do the repair. It looks like your list has everything you need. Someone on here has a great list with part numbers and everything... I cannot remember who has it, but I ran across it reading everyone's posts about their repairs. I will be glad to help if you have any questions.

MAC
So I finished up with the timing chains a couple of days ago, she started up and all those codes are gone but now I have a persistent misfire at cylinder 2 and codes for rich 02 sensors at both exhaust sides, any ideas? I swapped plugs and coils on that cylinder and now I'm afraid valves got bent at some point because the exhaust o2 sensors are reading rich
 
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