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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, I’ve been hearing a little bit of a groan and pop when turning the wheel at a stop or very low speed. Thought maybe a ball joint but couldn’t spot movement when wiggling it myself while jacked up.

I had the truck in the shop today to have a screw removed from the tire and asked them to take a look.

They told me I needed to replace the upper and lower control arms on the driver side.

Does anyone have a video on the process for getting the lower control arms off on a 2011. I have done this on a friends 99 KR but can’t find anything online for the 11-13 trucks? I’m assuming it’s not that different. I guess I have to make sure to unhook the EPAS.

Would you guys tackle this yourself? Does anyone know all the torques specs?

Should I bite the bullet and do both sides at once?

Sorry for the rambling! Thanks!


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Should just be the two bolts at the frame, the shock bolt and the ball joint bolt.

Unless you have a level, you should be able to pull the shock boot at full droop. When i put a level on my friends F150 we had to drop the lca from the frame to get the shock bolted on and then used a floor jack to lift the lca back into place.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Should just be the two bolts at the frame, the shock bolt and the ball joint bolt.

Unless you have a level, you should be able to pull the shock boot at full droop. When i put a level on my friends F150 we had to drop the lca from the frame to get the shock bolted on and then used a floor jack to lift the lca back into place.
I have a .75” level would my best be enough to require that?

If I’m understanding you right there’s no reason to have to remove the knuckle and brake etc?


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I have a .75” level would my best be enough to require that?

If I’m understanding you right there’s no reason to have to remove the knuckle and brake etc?


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I didnt have to drop the lca to get my Bilstein 5100 in but if you have a spacer level like my friend then you might.

Yeah, what i would do is put a ratchet strap under your UCA to hold it and the knuckle and everything from dropping and then just drop the LCA.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I didnt have to drop the lca to get my Bilstein 5100 in but if you have a spacer level like my friend then you might.

Yeah, what i would do is put a ratchet strap under your UCA to hold it and the knuckle and everything from dropping and then just drop the LCA.
Great! I just have bilstein 5100s so shouldn’t be an issue then! I will give that a try thank you so much!

You don’t happen to to know any of the torque specs do you?

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@mass-hole ; just looking at it again, is there enough room to get the old LCA out and the new one in without having to take out the CV?

I called Ford to do my due diligence on quotes ($1000 plus alignment ouch) and they said you had to take the knuckle off. Is that just Ford SOP?




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I bet it's just the upper and lower ball joint. Doubt the bushings are gone on the LCA.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Maybe this can explain the cost. If I attached correctly.
I watched that video the other day, yeah the cost makes sense because it’s a lot of labor going into it. I’m just at the point in life that spending a day under the truck and saving a bunch of money that can be saved is ideal if possible


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well everyone I did it, and I’m hoping I didn’t screw anything up.

Couldn’t sneak the ball joint past the CV shaft so ended up having to take everything apart. Cleaned and regreased the hub, spindle, and IWE with Lucas red and tacky.

I got the lower and upper control arms installed on both sides torques everything to spec with the exception of the mounting bolts for the control arms (which I snugged up but not tightened down) I was told I needed to leave loose until the truck settles to ride height.

Carefully resplined the cv and the hub.

Got the tires on and sat the truck on it’s own weight and despite the control arms being loose it was an inch and a half high?? Any thoughts?

Truck was on stands for about two days because I had other things going on. Would the struts/springs have just decompressed and need to settle again?

Did I clearly screw something up? I currently have the truck under its own weight sitting on a flat drive without torquing the control arms, is this a bad idea? I figured it could sit still for the next 24 hours and I could see if it settled. Then torque everything in and take for an alignment.

At this point if something is wrong and it can make it 3 miles as is I’ll admit defeat and pay the dealer.


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Jump on the front end to jounce it around and get it to settle.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Jump on the front end to jounce it around and get it to settle.
I’ll give it a shot! Thanks!


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Jump on the front end to jounce it around and get it to settle.
Jumped on the front end and it was still about .75” high. Got eveyrhing snugged up and backed it into the drive and it looks I be the right height (now facing down a hill idk if it’s just all the **** in the bed and now a different angle?

Taking it to Ford for an alignment tomorrow, think I’ll ask them to check the front end bushings for me just because it’s going to worry me if I don’t lol


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Jumped on the front end and it was still about .75” high. Got eveyrhing snugged up and backed it into the drive and it looks I be the right height (now facing down a hill idk if it’s just all the **** in the bed and now a different angle?

Taking it to Ford for an alignment tomorrow, think I’ll ask them to check the front end bushings for me just because it’s going to worry me if I don’t lol


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I still say you should have just done the ball joints.

I've got 90k miles on mine and the bushings are 100% fine. However the ball joints were toast both upper and lower.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I still say you should have just done the ball joints.

I've got 90k miles on mine and the bushings are 100% fine. However the ball joints were toast both upper and lower.
I think you’re about 100% right, pressing in the joints scared me, which was dumb


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