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Maintenance Question

5.2K views 48 replies 16 participants last post by  snakebitten  
#1 ·
Hello all,

First post here and just need some advice - the dealership service dept. recommended my 2016 150 have the following services done since it's at around the 140,000 mile marker:
  • alignment ($149)
  • fuel induction service ($276)
  • transmission fluid exchange ($400)

Are these things actually necessary and/or worth doing, and are the prices they quoted me actually reasonable?

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the forum.

Alignment is something you could tell by the way the truck is driving, or by wear of the tires.
Fuel Induction service - skip this unnecessary upsell / upcharge
Transmission fluid exchange - If it's never been done to the truck before, might be a good time for this service.

Are you the original owner? If not, do you know the service history?
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the reply!

The truck is driving fine...It drifts slightly, but I have always attributed this to the slight banking of the roads as they do that for rain runoff...it doesn't handle poorly at all from what I can tell or veer/drift unnecessarily anymore than what I think the slight slope in the road causes.

And I am not the original owner, but I am not sure whether the fluid exchange has been done before. Of course that one has to be the most expensive of them too.

I know for sure that I need the brake fluid changed soon and new brake pads, but I am having that serviced elsewhere...just not sure if it is worth doing any of these other things at the dealer even if I am paying a little premium on them. If they're a once in a lifetime change and are helpful for longevity's sake of the car, then I'd likely do them. But I am ignorant as a stump when it comes to cars, so hence the cry for advice.
 
#5 ·
Hello there! Yeah the induction service is a rip-off and potential trouble maker.
Alignment as noted can be felt and visibly identified. Personally I overdo because I like the performance of good well tuned suspension so mine is checked yearly and I approve all adjustments first.
I also do 40k mile trans flushes and full fluid exchange. Transmission fluid is a wear item loosing its effective additives as it gets old. KM
 
owns 2017 Ford F150 XL
#7 ·
I know nothing about cars.
No worries. None of us knew anything about cars at one point in time.
Be sure to follow consistent maintenance. Oil changes every 5,000 miles. Air filters changed. And transmission fluid service. Once you get these done, they are your baselines.
Keep an eye on front tire wear. Wearing on the inside or outside edges means alignment is needing to be checked.
 
#9 ·
Alignment, you will know. Cheaper at Les Schwab I bet - If you have one

Skip as mentioned on the fuel service -- Good additives out there to run through a tank or two with good benefits

Trans, I would say just a fluid change but others suggest the filter as well...... anyways, good to do
 
#10 ·
On "induction service". Most of it is simply spay clean the throttle body and sensors, a simple project to do at home. A throttle/idle relearn should be done but rarely is, another simple thing to DIY. After that a can of cleaning addative added to the gas tank, again DIY. Charging $276 for a spray can of MAP/MAF cleaner and a bottle of injector cleaner dumped into the fuel tank is a rip-off. KM
 
#11 ·
I usually put in those fuel additives from the gas stations every once in a while - should it be more often? I don't know how to do those other things - are they essential to where I should figure out how to do those, or just continue with the fuel additives?
 
#12 ·
I never use any aftermarket additives. The gas in station tank has additive packages in the fuel, overdoing such can cause problems.
All the rest can be found on Youtube. KM
 
#14 ·
My Ford dealer just charged me $229 for a transmission fluid flush. For $400 I’d look for another dealer. Yikes.
Agreed, induction service is a total waste. If your front tires are wearing even, you’re all good. I went to a shop last year and they wanted to do a 4 wheel alignment…..it’s a truck, only 2 wheel alignment is the real deal since they can’t adjust the rear….thiefs
 
#15 ·
Hey again y'all - so the mechanic that I have taken my cars to forever, who I trust immensely, told me that the transmission fluid thing is also a racket. He said that if I am not having any issues with it, then there's nothing that needs done. Thoughts?
 
#16 ·
Maintenance of the transmission is a "scheduled" item; not routine like oil changes every 5,000 miles (or fill in your preferred mile range), but it is recommended service. When and if you do it is up to you.

My 2018 has a little over 62,500 miles and I will be doing service on the transmission, front and rear differentials and transfer case between now and the end of the year - just because I want to keep my truck running at its best for another 60-70K miles.

You will get yes and no opinions on doing your transmission service as long as you keep asking.
 
#17 ·
Transmission fluid is like engine oil, a lube that looses it's additive effectiveness over time. I choose to do full filter and flush on a machine to replace all the fluid every 40k miles. KM
 
#18 ·
I would recommend getting the transmission service done and that's it. Transmission gets less contamination then other things like engines. I would also recommend servicing the rear diff if its never been done.
 
#23 ·
Just one point on the E Locker. It does turn off electric power around 25-30 MPH but will stay engaged till the torque applied is let off, then the locker mechanically dis-engages. If the switch is left on it re-engages below 25 MPH. I use my E Locker quite a bit. KM
 
owns 2017 Ford F150 XL
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#27 ·
Since it’s “free” at the dealership, just let them put in what they use. My dealership uses (I don’t know what oil) when they do my free / prepaid oil changes.
 
#29 ·
At the dealer, I would expect motorcraft synthetic blend 5w30 and a motorcraft filter… I am in the camp that synthetic is the only way to fill my rigs

edit. The MC syn-blend is a highly regarded oil, for a “free” service, I’d use it. Just be sure you go back in 5000 miles or less no matter what they tell you
 
#30 ·
Skip the induction service, and brake fluid change. Brake fluid is an Asian car maintenance item. I've never done a brake change in a Ford, in 45 years in auto service. Unless replacing calipers or master cylinder.

Fuel induction service can help some engines because it will clean the intake valves somewhat. On newer GDI engines the fuel is injected into the cylinder and never touches the valves.
There are plenty of additives and detergents in modern gasoline, skip the additives and save money.

Trans fluid change, yes especially if you do any towing.
 
#34 ·
Fuel induction service can help some engines because it will clean the intake valves somewhat. On newer GDI engines the fuel is injected into the cylinder and never touches the valves
That depends... if the dealer is performing the BG induction service (or similar,) they drip solvent into the intake piping at a prescribed rate with the engine running to melt deposits from the top end. I researched this pretty extensively, but ultimately never had it done.

 
#31 ·
Btexpress, with all due respect regarding brake fluid, it's my understanding that as brake fluid is hydroscopic, the absorbed water can damage brake system components over time if not flushed every few years. That being said, I change mine out every 30K on my Ecoboost and '01 Ranger, and annually on my '61 Bug, as it has a single pot master cylinder. 30K might be overkill, but I consider brakes the single most important component on a car and am happy to spend a few $$$ and 30 minutes with a power bleeder to swap out the nasty dark fluid with fresh clear fluid.
 
#33 ·
My comment is not based on first hand knowledge but based on what I have heard 3rd party so take it with a grain of salt.

On the transmission fluid - I am by no means an expert on this but its my understanding that ATF should be changed along with the filter every 50-60K if you are going to do it. If you have never done it and your vehicle is higher milage. (you said around 140K) and your truck is not having shifting issues, don't change it. The rationale behind this is as follows. Your originally ATF (automatic transmission fluid) will break down to some extent over time. Not making it useless, but leaving deposits in the transmission, if you have went this far without changing it those deposits can be fairly substantial. New AFT can liberate these deposits and damage the transmission. I would highly recommend researching this on your own. Note - I changed out the ATF on a 2001 4runner with 180K on it, no idea if it have ever been changed, and have had no issue.

I have heard that the $400 dealership fluid exchange/filter replacement does not drain the torque converter. So it is not a full fluid exchange. Again not positive on this but I would ask if they fully drain the transmission and torque converter or if they drain half the fluid (only from the transmission itself) and replace that or if its a full ATF drain and replace.
 
#36 ·
My comment is not based on first hand knowledge but based on what I have heard 3rd party so take it with a grain of salt.

On the transmission fluid - I am by no means an expert on this but its my understanding that ATF should be changed along with the filter every 50-60K if you are going to do it. If you have never done it and your vehicle is higher milage. (you said around 140K) and your truck is not having shifting issues, don't change it. The rationale behind this is as follows. Your originally ATF (automatic transmission fluid) will break down to some extent over time. Not making it useless, but leaving deposits in the transmission, if you have went this far without changing it those deposits can be fairly substantial. New AFT can liberate these deposits and damage the transmission. I would highly recommend researching this on your own. Note - I changed out the ATF on a 2001 4runner with 180K on it, no idea if it have ever been changed, and have had no issue.

I have heard that the $400 dealership fluid exchange/filter replacement does not drain the torque converter. So it is not a full fluid exchange. Again not positive on this but I would ask if they fully drain the transmission and torque converter or if they drain half the fluid (only from the transmission itself) and replace that or if its a full ATF drain and replace.
I heard the machine is expensive, but I would think that it'd be possible to reduce the risk of those deposits causing issues IF the procedure was a high temperature (you have to keep any/all thermostat type devices open) true flushing technique. And a full transfusion of fresh transmission oil once the flushing revealed clear fluid being extracted.

However, it seems it would be cost prohibitive to be using new fluid to flush the transmission/converter. So I always wondered just how that works?

With the engine coolant flushing it is inexpensive since you can use as much flushing fluid as it takes. (H2O)

But flushing a transmission with a few gallons of transmission fluid? Ouch
 
#35 ·
Yes BG makes some good products, and I used them in my work. Still doesn't clean the intake valves like people might think. I've heard BG makes a service specifically for GDI but that came out long after I retired. Like to try that on my own truck.
 
#37 ·
I had a full service at 40000 and will again at 80000. This shows the service as I saw it done. KM

 
owns 2017 Ford F150 XL
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#38 ·
Snake, trans flush machines are loaded with a specific amount of new fluid. It's more like fluid exchange. The flush part is when you add something like a BG product first to "clean" trans.
Some times this causes issues with transmission afterwords.
I like just a fluid exchange then you know almost all the fluid is changed.
Coolant flush machines are similar. One tank for new fluid, one tank for old fluid. And yes the can be expensive
 
#41 ·
Snake, trans flush machines are loaded with a specific amount of new fluid. It's more like fluid exchange. The flush part is when you add something like a BG product first to "clean" trans.
Some times this causes issues with transmission afterwords.

I like just a fluid exchange then you know almost all the fluid is changed.
Coolant flush machines are similar. One tank for new fluid, one tank for old fluid. And yes the can be expensive
Yes sir, understood. But I was imagining that the reason it can cause problems is the procedure might not be sufficient for addressing the potential to loosen and then not extract all the deposits.

If "flushing" was capable of using as much fluid as necessary, as well as physically doing things like reverse flow back and forth, and or even vibrate/oscillate in order to prohibit residue from getting trapped in cavities and passages........

Just imagining what machine and procedure might possibly be capable of NOT risking making things worst when you are attempting to revive a high mileage transmission.

Even if the procedure would have a high co$t, if it proved to be successful it would be a fraction of the cost of a transmission rebuild.
 
#39 ·
Those BG guys are BELIEVERS. Never liked additives myself. Coolant flush? Yeah I'd use that but not the trans flush. Rather just replace all fluid. Seen enough problems caused in transmissions with "cleaners".
Try convincing a shop not to use the BG in your trans? Good luck. Worked with service writers that went to the BG training, it's like brainwashing.
Good products but I'd be selective in their use