[FanaticalKilla]

Thanks for your input!

Another question for my completely car illiterate and ignorant self - what is the rear diff for? How do I actually use it? Mine has the knob for it, but does the car have to be in a certain gear before I can turn it on? What situation would I be in where it would be necessary to use it? I've never had to use it before so just wondering!

The rear diff transfers the drive shaft rotation 90 degrees turning both rear wheels and it also makes it so the inner and outer wheel on turns can turn at different speeds.

I'm assuming you have a rear diff lock on your truck. You would use that in 2wd or 4wd(if so equipped) or low grip situations where one wheel could be on pavement and one wheel could on mud.

You need to be under 40 mph to turn it on. It will turn off automatically if you go above 40 mph.
-Do not engage on a spin! It will damage internals.
-You can engage it in motion.

I assume your truck is a 2wd.

 

[peads10]

The rear diff transfers the drive shaft rotation 90 degrees turning both rear wheels and it also makes it so the inner and outer wheel on turns can turn at different speeds.

I'm assuming you have a rear diff lock on your truck. You would use that in 2wd or 4wd(if so equipped) or low grip situations where one wheel could be on pavement and one wheel could on mud.

You need to be under 40 mph to turn it on. It will turn off automatically if you go above 40 mph.
-Do not engage on a spin! It will damage internals.
-You can engage it in motion.

I assume your truck is a 2wd.

That is correct - it is a 2WD.

 

[butthead]

Just one point on the E Locker. It does turn off electric power around 25-30 MPH but will stay engaged till the torque applied is let off, then the locker mechanically dis-engages. If the switch is left on it re-engages below 25 MPH. I use my E Locker quite a bit. KM

 

[peads10]

Also taking it for a free (already paid for as part of the 'VIP club' thing they offered at purchase) oil change at the dealer - should a 2016 get synthetic oil or just regular?

 

[snydmax]

should a 2016 get synthetic oil or just regular?

… warming up the torches

 

[Scott91370]

... should a 2016 get synthetic oil or just regular?

Yes.

 

[Boatwaco]

Since it’s “free” at the dealership, just let them put in what they use. My dealership uses (I don’t know what oil) when they do my free / prepaid oil changes.

 

[peads10]

… warming up the torches

lol I told you I know nothing.

 

[snydmax]

At the dealer, I would expect motorcraft synthetic blend 5w30 and a motorcraft filter… I am in the camp that synthetic is the only way to fill my rigs

edit. The MC syn-blend is a highly regarded oil, for a “free” service, I’d use it. Just be sure you go back in 5000 miles or less no matter what they tell you

 

[Btexpress]

Skip the induction service, and brake fluid change. Brake fluid is an Asian car maintenance item. I've never done a brake change in a Ford, in 45 years in auto service. Unless replacing calipers or master cylinder.

Fuel induction service can help some engines because it will clean the intake valves somewhat. On newer GDI engines the fuel is injected into the cylinder and never touches the valves.
There are plenty of additives and detergents in modern gasoline, skip the additives and save money.

Trans fluid change, yes especially if you do any towing.

 

[stereotype one]

Btexpress, with all due respect regarding brake fluid, it's my understanding that as brake fluid is hydroscopic, the absorbed water can damage brake system components over time if not flushed every few years. That being said, I change mine out every 30K on my Ecoboost and '01 Ranger, and annually on my '61 Bug, as it has a single pot master cylinder. 30K might be overkill, but I consider brakes the single most important component on a car and am happy to spend a few $$$ and 30 minutes with a power bleeder to swap out the nasty dark fluid with fresh clear fluid.

 

[Btexpress]

Yes hydroscopic unless you use silicone brake fluid, that's a whole nother can if worms. If the brake system is in great shape should be no moisture getting in.
Your choice.

 

[drewski]

My comment is not based on first hand knowledge but based on what I have heard 3rd party so take it with a grain of salt.

On the transmission fluid - I am by no means an expert on this but its my understanding that ATF should be changed along with the filter every 50-60K if you are going to do it. If you have never done it and your vehicle is higher milage. (you said around 140K) and your truck is not having shifting issues, don't change it. The rationale behind this is as follows. Your originally ATF (automatic transmission fluid) will break down to some extent over time. Not making it useless, but leaving deposits in the transmission, if you have went this far without changing it those deposits can be fairly substantial. New AFT can liberate these deposits and damage the transmission. I would highly recommend researching this on your own. Note - I changed out the ATF on a 2001 4runner with 180K on it, no idea if it have ever been changed, and have had no issue.

I have heard that the $400 dealership fluid exchange/filter replacement does not drain the torque converter. So it is not a full fluid exchange. Again not positive on this but I would ask if they fully drain the transmission and torque converter or if they drain half the fluid (only from the transmission itself) and replace that or if its a full ATF drain and replace.

 

[snydmax]

Fuel induction service can help some engines because it will clean the intake valves somewhat. On newer GDI engines the fuel is injected into the cylinder and never touches the valves

That depends... if the dealer is performing the BG induction service (or similar,) they drip solvent into the intake piping at a prescribed rate with the engine running to melt deposits from the top end. I researched this pretty extensively, but ultimately never had it done.

Gasoline Fuel System – BG Products, Inc.

Gasoline Direct Injection (GDI) engines require clean components to function at peak performance. These engines are manufactured with tight tolerances and demand regular preventive maintenance to prevent carbon deposits and maintain fuel economy and performance. This service is especially...

www.bgprod.com

 

[Btexpress]

Yes BG makes some good products, and I used them in my work. Still doesn't clean the intake valves like people might think. I've heard BG makes a service specifically for GDI but that came out long after I retired. Like to try that on my own truck.

 

[snakebitten]

My comment is not based on first hand knowledge but based on what I have heard 3rd party so take it with a grain of salt.

On the transmission fluid - I am by no means an expert on this but its my understanding that ATF should be changed along with the filter every 50-60K if you are going to do it. If you have never done it and your vehicle is higher milage. (you said around 140K) and your truck is not having shifting issues, don't change it. The rationale behind this is as follows. Your originally ATF (automatic transmission fluid) will break down to some extent over time. Not making it useless, but leaving deposits in the transmission, if you have went this far without changing it those deposits can be fairly substantial. New AFT can liberate these deposits and damage the transmission. I would highly recommend researching this on your own. Note - I changed out the ATF on a 2001 4runner with 180K on it, no idea if it have ever been changed, and have had no issue.

I have heard that the $400 dealership fluid exchange/filter replacement does not drain the torque converter. So it is not a full fluid exchange. Again not positive on this but I would ask if they fully drain the transmission and torque converter or if they drain half the fluid (only from the transmission itself) and replace that or if its a full ATF drain and replace.

I heard the machine is expensive, but I would think that it'd be possible to reduce the risk of those deposits causing issues IF the procedure was a high temperature (you have to keep any/all thermostat type devices open) true flushing technique. And a full transfusion of fresh transmission oil once the flushing revealed clear fluid being extracted.

However, it seems it would be cost prohibitive to be using new fluid to flush the transmission/converter. So I always wondered just how that works?

With the engine coolant flushing it is inexpensive since you can use as much flushing fluid as it takes. (H2O)

But flushing a transmission with a few gallons of transmission fluid? Ouch

 

[butthead]

I had a full service at 40000 and will again at 80000. This shows the service as I saw it done. KM

 

[Btexpress]

Snake, trans flush machines are loaded with a specific amount of new fluid. It's more like fluid exchange. The flush part is when you add something like a BG product first to "clean" trans.
Some times this causes issues with transmission afterwords.
I like just a fluid exchange then you know almost all the fluid is changed.
Coolant flush machines are similar. One tank for new fluid, one tank for old fluid. And yes the can be expensive

 

[Btexpress]

Those BG guys are BELIEVERS. Never liked additives myself. Coolant flush? Yeah I'd use that but not the trans flush. Rather just replace all fluid. Seen enough problems caused in transmissions with "cleaners".
Try convincing a shop not to use the BG in your trans? Good luck. Worked with service writers that went to the BG training, it's like brainwashing.
Good products but I'd be selective in their use

 

[Btexpress]

I think like in buttheads case, he'll be ok because the trans doesn't have a chance to get too dirty or varnished. Not a bad idea every 40k but expensive