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I've been battling this issue for months. Finally made the dealership lend my a mechanic and the ford laptop. So plugged the laptop in and brought the tech for a ride. The whole left side of my motor misfires severely under heavy acceleration all three cylinders. It's recorded on the laptop and they still can't fix it. They've done plugs, wires, condensation tsb and now they've ordered all new coils for that side. Mileage has been terrible. Lucky to get 15mpg on the highway. Stomp on the throttle and it shutters, bucks and sometimes falls flat. Never sets a light and doesn't store half of the misfires. That's why I made them lend me a tech. I have a 2011 Eco boost and am really starting to lose faith. Anyone had the same issues and any fix for this? Also my truck smoke pretty good black on cold start for several minutes and my exhaust tip is severely black with soot. Is this normal?
 

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Black soot is normal for these trucks
 

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Pull the plugs and regap them at .030", if that doesnt resolve it tell them to look into replacing the catalytic converter under a recall. They should know which one.
 

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Smoke and black pipe is a result of the missing and unburnt fuel left in the sytem
 

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Smoke and black pipe is a result of the missing and unburnt fuel left in the sytem
You are correct, but, turbo + DIG = rich running conditions always.
 

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You are correct, but, turbo + DIG = rich running conditions always.
I believe it is to a certain point, but have failed to ever see my truck smoke. I've seen smoke on start up once in 6800 miles. I'm OCD for watching for these things due to having injector issues on my cummins. Once you get paranoid about washing out a cylinder you can't help but always watch the pipe at start up.
 

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My 2011 EB had the prob where it would misfire/lose power on hard acceleration and ended up taking it to the dealer and they told me it needed the deflector plate and said it wasn't covered so the service rep gave me fords number I called and let them know what was going on the following week the manager at ford called me saying was going to cover the charges so I took it back after paying the $85 service fee and the put the deflector plate for the intercooler and ended up replacing all the spark plugs cause there suppose to be gapped at .032 and one of them was at .4 and I didn't have to pay a cent....hope this helps
 

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Is this whole gap thing still a problem?
Has anyone found miss gaped plugs on the 13 models?
Inquiring minds would like to know this....seeing as I pick up my new 2013 FX2 Screw Eco-boostr tomorrow!!
 

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I've been battling this issue for months. Finally made the dealership lend my a mechanic and the ford laptop. So plugged the laptop in and brought the tech for a ride. The whole left side of my motor misfires severely under heavy acceleration all three cylinders. It's recorded on the laptop and they still can't fix it. They've done plugs, wires, condensation tsb and now they've ordered all new coils for that side. Mileage has been terrible. Lucky to get 15mpg on the highway. Stomp on the throttle and it shutters, bucks and sometimes falls flat. Never sets a light and doesn't store half of the misfires. That's why I made them lend me a tech. I have a 2011 Eco boost and am really starting to lose faith. Anyone had the same issues and any fix for this? Also my truck smoke pretty good black on cold start for several minutes and my exhaust tip is severely black with soot. Is this normal?
. Just wondering I have the same problem with my 2011 they fix yours if so what did they do
 

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Pull the plugs and regap them at .030", if that doesnt resolve it tell them to look into replacing the catalytic converter under a recall. They should know which one.
The only thing that wiil help in the long term is drilling a hole at the lowest point in the CAC outflow end cap.

Then install new plugs and coils since the old ones likely have carbon tracking on the plugs and inside the coil resulting from past flashovers. 0.040 gap will work fine provided the addition of STEAM in the compression stroke doesn't increase the effective compression ratio beyond the maximum firing capability across the plug gap.
 

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The only thing that wiil help in the long term is drilling a hole at the lowest point in the CAC outflow end cap.

Then install new plugs and coils since the old ones likely have carbon tracking on the plugs and inside the coil resulting from past flashovers. 0.040 gap will work fine provided the addition of STEAM in the compression stroke doesn't increase the effective compression ratio beyond the maximum firing capability across the plug gap.
Sir, do you even own an Ecoboost?

The 0.040" gap you're recommending isn't even Ford's recommendation....

That's it, I'm logging into the website and putting you on ignore. I don't have enough duct tape (and I sell duct tape) to keep my head from exploding.
 

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He's trolling


Boosting hard, boosting safe since 2013
 

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The only thing that wiil help in the long term is drilling a hole at the lowest point in the CAC outflow end cap.

Then install new plugs and coils since the old ones likely have carbon tracking on the plugs and inside the coil resulting from past flashovers. 0.040 gap will work fine provided the addition of STEAM in the compression stroke doesn't increase the effective compression ratio beyond the maximum firing capability across the plug gap.
What he said.

 

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When did 2canches move to Minnesota?


At home I rule the roost on the road I rule the boost!
 
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