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Discussion Starter #1
I think I have it on the passenger side.

A lot of guys are having issues with CRP recently. Are they the way to go? Or is OEM it now?

Why hasn’t anyone made a new cast to itemize the 2 unused bolt holes? Wouldn’t that solve so many issues for people?

2011, 115k miles.

Do you guys recommend any particular thread or directions to follow? Any particular parts that have been upgraded?
How about turbos? Go OEM, or upgrade? No shaft play or anything on my turbos. But I’m under the impression Ford rated them for 150k miles.


168742
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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@SrpRacing I know you heard it in the PM’s but do you hear it on this video?

Just mainly looking for maybe an updated parts list or what everyone’s opinions are on OEM vs CRP, and easy tune in turbo upgrades for 2011. T
 

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@SrpRacing I know you heard it in the PM’s but do you hear it on this video?

Just mainly looking for maybe an updated parts list or what everyone’s opinions are on OEM vs CRP, and easy tune in turbo upgrades for 2011. T
It sounds like it starts at about 0:13 seconds. And ends about 0:21 seconds.
 

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I think I have it on the passenger side.

A lot of guys are having issues with CRP recently. Are they the way to go? Or is OEM it now?

Why hasn’t anyone made a new cast to itemize the 2 unused bolt holes? Wouldn’t that solve so many issues for people?

2011, 115k miles.

Do you guys recommend any particular thread or directions to follow? Any particular parts that have been upgraded?
How about turbos? Go OEM, or upgrade? No shaft play or anything on my turbos. But I’m under the impression Ford rated them for 150k miles.


View attachment 168742
Even though it looks like I am about to have to redo my Manifolds AGAIN, I am going with CRP. But I also had them Ceramic Coated.

From what I am hearing/reading, it seems broken studs seems to be the problem with the guys who had CRP Manifolds. Maybe @mass-hole will reply as he now also has that problem and he has CRP manifolds.

And @Blown F-150 recommends installing the stainless studs that were used (at the end) on 5.4s that had a similar problem.

FYI, I bought those stainless steel studs Blown recommended. Based on the sound of my "chirp" I suspect that I will probably have to deal with this (again) during the winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah the recent leaks with CRP has me second guessing the 10x cost vs OEM. would love @CRP Engineering’s take on that.
 

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I just had my drivers side CRP warp, however, the studs did not break. I also think it is extremely rare and I may be one of, if not the only, person to have warped one. The others who have had issues had a warped head surface in one case and a failed gasket in the other I believe.

I tow my travel trailer in the Rockies, often into headwinds and at 90+ degree temperatures. The day I warped my CRP I was towing into a 30mph wind with 40mph gusts and it got as hot as 95F outside. It was so extreme that my trucks coolant temp gauge was moving on flat ground. I was in the 230's on flat ground if I didn't back out of it and drop down to 50 or 55 mph. My manifolds and turbos were probably glowing red. I absolutely abused them without a doubt.

CRP did take care of me. I reinstalled them with a set of ARP stainless steel studs(ARP kit number 400-8014). It has only been a couple of weeks since I replaced the warped mani, but I already ended up towing into another 25-30mph headwind, although it was only 73°F out this time.

Ultimately, this is a failure on Ford's part. It's just a poor design from the ground up. CRP did respond in my thread here in the problems section, and did say that if they had utilized the other manifold stud holes it would have caused uneven clamping force. Additionally, you would not be able to get to a stud at the top/rear of the rear most port as it is behind the turbo flange and runner and is blocked. This seems to be where the leaks always occur. Rear port at the top.

My guess is if you don't abuse the truck like I am, you will be 100% fine with the CRP's.
 

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@mass-hole I "liked" the info in your reply, not what happened to you (warp manifold).

FYI, when I first got my CRP manifolds and checked them out on a flat table and I noticed a slight imperfection in my flange (not totally flat). As I was taking my manifolds to be ceramic coated, I figured I would deal with the flange and have it "trued". At the same time @Blown F-150 had either just bought his CRP manifolds (or knew someone); but I mentioned this to him, and he said he didn't have the same issue as me.

I went to a local machine shop and they confirmed that one of my manifolds wasn't completely flat. The other wasn't bad, but I had them both machined to be "true". It was like $35 for both. Cheap insurance, especially as I was already "gun shy" from my first leak.

Given what you are saying, it sounds like a quick trip to a machine shop may be your fix too. I sure hope so. 🤞
 

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I've got a passenger side that broke the rear stud - OE manifold. I'm hoping on this next trip the driver side has issues... :oops: I have a set of ported/coated OE that I will see about having the dealer install since I am still under warranty. not sure if they will use my parts or not though. I will check on the stainless studs upon replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
@mass-hole I "liked" the info in your reply, not what happened to you (warp manifold).

FYI, when I first got my CRP manifolds and checked them out on a flat table and I noticed a slight imperfection in my flange (not totally flat). As I was taking my manifolds to be ceramic coated, I figured I would deal with the flange and have it "trued". At the same time @Blown F-150 had either just bought his CRP manifolds (or knew someone); but I mentioned this to him, and he said he didn't have the same issue as me.

I went to a local machine shop and they confirmed that one of my manifolds wasn't completely flat. The other wasn't bad, but I had them both machined to be "true". It was like $35 for both. Cheap insurance, especially as I was already "gun shy" from my first leak.

Given what you are saying, it sounds like a quick trip to a machine shop may be your fix too. I sure hope so. 🤞
This is what has been concerning me. From the woodwork, you hear about these inconsistencies with the CRP manifolds.

I don't have them yet, I'd like to get the best solution to my problem. And if they are it, then I'm hoping they stay true.

I would also like to find some 2011-2012 drop in turbo upgrade, like GT's, if anyone knows someone.
 

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This is what has been concerning me. From the woodwork, you hear about these inconsistencies with the CRP manifolds.

I don't have them yet, I'd like to get the best solution to my problem. And if they are it, then I'm hoping they stay true.

I would also like to find some 2011-2012 drop in turbo upgrade, like GT's, if anyone knows someone.
You can hang on until the Full Race Manifolds are available. But honestly, CRP has been pretty open when asked about issues IMO. They seem to be very few and far between.


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Discussion Starter #14
You can hang on until the Full Race Manifolds are available. But honestly, CRP has been pretty open when asked about issues IMO. They seem to be very few and far between.


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oh yes I have heard about these. Are there any details out yet?
 

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Actually when I discovered my CRP Manifolds weren't perfectly flat, I did mention it to @Blown F-150 as he was just buying some himself.

Blown's were perfectly flat, while mine were not.

The machining of the flange only cost $25-35 (can't remember the exact amount). But it was very cheap and done in a day.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Does a lift significantly make the process easier? Or does it matter all that much?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
They posted a video testing them. I don’t really know anything else, but assume they will be out by spring at the latest.


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Blown, do you have a link to that video? I can’t seem to find it.
 

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You know, if you are an Ecoboost fan, you gotta be pumped anytime those guys get together on our behalf. That video is awesome any several different ways.

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