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Road grime is next level!...
My eyes... my eyes... I'm blind! I'm sure that's a movie line somewhere. :cool:

Yeah, that's not the one I'm thinking of but it's close.
 

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@GearHead_1 - from your paint finish and detailing background - have you seen this and is this yellowing in the clear coat or paint? Do you know if a mild polish can take it away?
I've absolutely seen the reverse of this where outside of the sticker fades/discolors with age. That said, I have no doubt that whatever adhesive might have been used on the decal could potentially discolor paint but I've never had to deal with it. I'd start with the least aggressive compound or a paint cleaner and pad in my cabinet on a polisher and see what that did. You'll soon know if it stayed in or on the top part of the clear. My gut says that might be on the paint rather than in the paint.
 

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I responded in the other thread where you mentioned this but I think a belt is a relatively inexpensive thing to try in a situation like this. Not that anyone's asking but, Goodyear Gatorback belts have always been a favorite of mine.
 

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Apparently they are the most accurate readings. There’s none of the tire slippage, and stuff. All that inertial stuff I don’t understand. But a Hub dyno is the best.
Please don't take this post the wrong way, I mean no offense. Hub dyno is best? Most accurate with respect to what? You may pick up 30 or 40 horsepower on a hub dyno compared to a roller dyno, you may then pick up another 30 to 40 horsepower with just an engine dyno compared to a hub dyno. So what's the point of reference? Is the point of reference HP to the ground? Of course not in this example.

It's like saying an engine dyno > hub dyno > roller dyno. 400 HP on a roller dyno does not equal 400 HP on a hub dyno. It takes/wastes real HP to get transmissions, differentials, wheels, and tires spinning. The numbers will, of course, be lower on a roller dyno than on a hub dyno. There are pretty significant differences from one dyno manufacturer to the next.

None of these numbers mean much of anything when compared to the other type of dyno. These numbers are most important in how they compare to the same piece of equipment on the same dyno from one run to the next. Just sayin...


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Have seen that vid. This dyno may or may not make your number more repeatable. In theory, it should lessen the variables in the equation but taming the variables is what you are doing when strapping it down too. Tires that are strapped to a roller produce numbers that are also repeatable.

It isn't about the number, but the number from one run or one adjustment to the next regardless of which dyno you're using. If all it was about was the numbers, then the question to you is this, would you rather have 600 HP at the roller or 600 at the hub? I'm not questioning your numbers here they are what they are.
 

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You don't seem like the kinda guy that wants a number just for bragging. Now put it back on a month from now, on a hotter day or with a different fuel, refine your tune and see what you will. It's good for your vehicle to have a frame of reference. It doesn't mean anything to the guy that was on a roller dyno and turned the same numbers as you do. If he does, and all else being equal, you need to be the better pilot.
 

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This is just my 2 cents so don't take it to the bank.

In my opinion there will be more money in your pocket if you can sell the HiPo pieces without the truck. People that are looking for HiPo parts know what they are after and appreciate just that and are willing to pay for it. People that are simply in the market to buy a nice truck don't necessarily appreciate those goodies and just see the truck as having the pieces needed to run. Why should they have to pay a premium to have pieces need to make the truck run?

Virtually no one unless their hands were actually included in the build or know you personally will give you what you have invested lock, stock and barrel in a built vehicle. In fact, many consider this as detrimental as they don't know if the engine has already been pushed too hard and they are inheriting someone else's future problems.

If the parts you pull off are in top-notch shape you could expect 50% to 75% of new value plus the truck will go for what I would assume is a higher book truck on its own merit. Kelly and NADA simply don't account for the add-on pieces on the truck.

If it were me and I was in your shoes, I'd pull the pieces before any potential buyer actually saw them on the truck. That isn't to suggest you would deceive anyone, but buyers want to know the truck runs as an F150 EcoBoost should run, just as it did when new with the OE parts on it.

By the way, one last question, have you gotten the opinion of more than one Tuner as to whether these are your only options?
 

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...Well, I’m glad you guys are so supportive, it’s awesome. I just hope and pray the motor holds strong. That would really destroy my life right now…
If this is the case, pull the tune off of it and keep your foot out of it until the finances whisper in your ear that they have recovered. Heck, winter is here anyway and Denver gets its fair share of snow.
 

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From what I read you're headed in a direction where a new motor is all but inevitable somewhere down the line. I'm not spreading fear and angst. It's just nice to expect the worst and should it happen the money is sitting there waiting for it. If it doesn't happen you've got the funds to do other fun things.
 
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