Tell Nathan I said “hi”!

 

Anyone else get this?

On a side note, here’s where I’m at with the built motor.

I found an oem 2021+ block brand new on eBay for 530$ and I ordered it today.

I have decided I’m not doing the cylinder support system for this build, I want to save as much money as I can.

Also, the pistons I’m going to use can be ordered at stock diameter, so I do not have to get anything bored out further.

 

Anyone else get this?

https://www.f150ecoboost.net/threads/second-time-my-axle-bolt-has-broken.91723/?post_id=1452552#post-1452552

 

Does anyone know about the part numbers?

Why does the photo of the block I bought show NL3E-6015-AA and the 2021-2024 block on ford parts website says NL3Z-6010-AA

 

I think but not positive that N =2022 year (block) 6010/6015 =engine component category. (block)
I put block there because if you read those numbers off the block well you know it’s the block.

 

1100 HP, open deck aluminum block, short life, all belong in the same sentence.

Punch the block number in Ford's website and it comes up as:

Part searched may be obsolete or invalid.

It may simply be an earlier block that has been superseded.

I have decided I’m not doing the cylinder support system for this build, I want to save as much money as I can.

Speed costs money, how fast are you going to go?

 

1100 HP, open deck aluminum block, short life, all belong in the same sentence.

Punch the block number in Ford's website and it comes up as:

Part searched may be obsolete or invalid.

It may simply be an earlier block that has been superseded.


Speed costs money, how fast are you going to go?

I am probably not going to run more than 8-900 hp. I don’t even have e85 here so it’s more of a backup motor for my truck at this point. Who knows I might change my mind and have the CSS done. I don’t know yet.

Hmm, I think the block I got is a remanufactured one. Which isn’t bad I guess.

 

Why do you think that? Are you thinking re-sleeved?

 

No just run it like it is with oem sized pistons and Boostline rods. Adam said getting the deck closed isn’t imperative. Is it better? Yes. It also costs more. We’ll see.

 

Close the deck, while you still can.

You are Boost King Matt

Right?
Own it. 😁

It's your brand!

 

Close the deck, while you still can.

You are Boost King Matt

Right?
Own it. 😁

It's your brand!

I probably will do that. It will be a little bit before I do it though.

 

Love it.

Go big or go home!

(I'll be home if anyone needs to find me.)

 

Thing is it does not need to spin that high. Boosted engines make torque low in the RPM range and hold it for a long time. High RPM serve more as an over-rev saftey factor. KM

 

Yeah, and it depends on what you’re getting too. If you spin it high and it’s not making more power or there’s some restriction somewhere, then you might be outflowing some stuff at that rpm, so you bring it back down and focus on lower end. There’s a lot to it.

 

Apparently I lucked out on the 3.5 block because the seller now has those blocks at 895$ now. I got mine for 522$ shipped!

 

Bumper end caps are on…
Looks really good, however there’s some issues. Driver side I need to adjust because it doesn’t sit flush with the side panel. Also, the two backup sensors in the metal part, near the exhaust tips, the “holders” that were on my stock bumper don’t fit properly so I’m probably going to have to get other ones. We’ll see if the sensors make the truck freak out tomorrow when I try to back up

 

Looks great.

 

I think the same, looks awesome.

 

New block goofin

 

What is the story with that block? It kind of looks someone has scraped head gaskets off of it. The cylinders also look like something has been in those holes before.

 

What is the story with that block. It kind of looks someone has scraped head gaskets off of it.

No, it’s never been used. There’s like packing oil stains that rub off if you wipe it with your finger. I’ll post more pics on Sunday probably.

 

You can see, that’s a 2.7 piston I put in there just to compare sizes. Pretty cool @GearHead_1 in case you didn’t see this post. here’s a better pic

 

Something I noticed is the 2.7 cylinder wall was way thinner than the 3.5 cylinder wall. 2.7 had some bracing though, 3.5 doesn’t.

 

As you guys might have seen in the above picture, I stuck that 2.7 rod and piston on there to compare bore size.

It made me think about my old 2.7 truck, holding the piston and rod and seeing how that rod is bent… you can see it in the picture.

I heard someone talking about LS blocks and how the bottom end can do 1500hp if it’s tuned just right. They had gotten some bent rods and caught it before it blew up and said that because their tune wasn’t perfect, it got bent rods.

that got me thinking… “it can live at high hp, but if the tune isn’t just right, it will bend rods” is what was said.
my 2.7 obviously bent rods too and I wonder if I had stayed on the ZFG tune if it would have kept that from happening. I had been on the Unleashed tune for a couple months. It had a boost spike during low rpm, and some other issues, but I kept driving it.

I am not blaming anyone except myself, but bent rods kind of points to an unrefined tune. Especially when ALL the rods were bent, even the ones that were still ok.

Steven Boswell’s 2.7 still hasn’t blown up… and he has another 150hp above mine. Side note, Looking back, I thought we were running 22.5 psi on Adams tune, but it was actually 26. We are running 23-26 psi on my red truck as well.

Anyways, just some thoughts on bent rods and tuning.

 

Not saying you are wrong but I think when even just one rod or piston let’s go other rods become collateral damage.

 

That is true, but I still think it relates to the 5.3 LS, where if it’s not tuned perfectly, it can’t handle the power and will bend rods and blow up.

 

I had a ford V8 push rod motor let go at around 6000 rpm’s. Two rods looked like pretzels. Neither one vented the block but some how shot upwards and took the cam out. Then the cam tried to exit the motor forward through the water pump. Pump and timing cover was just hanging on with a few bolts. And found 3 lifters in the oil pan. Crazy on the carnage that happens.

 

The 3.5 is an open deck block, which you can see of course. Better to do the deck supports now. It's never gonna get any easier to do than right now. Better to over-build it once than under build it and regret it later. Spending the time and money now will be much less than doing it over. Planning to do it later is a shaky plan. Even if it doesn't catastrophically fail, the time and aggravation of removal and disassembly will likely mean that it gets put off until it's too late. Obviously this is just the irrelevant opinion of an old guy who has been down this road before. I only mention it because I care.

 

Don’t worry, I’ll be getting it closed before it goes into my truck.

 

Ok, that sounds more like the Matt I know....lol. I may have misunderstood your intentions anyway. Normally I don't ever post ANYTHING about things like this, but I was hoping you knew I wasn't being a know it all or being critical. That it was coming from a good place!

 

Oh you are fine man. I know you well enough to know you weren’t being a know it all. You were just making sure my mind was thinking correctly.

 

Matt ya gotta slow down. I leave for 4 days and needed to back up a page to read all the stuff ya got going on!
Aww heck keep it up! KM

 

Haha sorry lol. But I can’t help it!!

 

Take a look at these two pistons from my blown motor. The silver one was still ok, and was in tact with the rod on it. Gold one had the rod blow off it, through the block. What do you guys think the reason for the color difference is? I scrubbed both of them and the gold one was “stained” and it wouldn’t scrub off.

Then, dealing with some spark plug demons right now, trying to get gap right on this tune because torque falls on its face at 4000 rpm and up, so trying to figure that out.

 

Did you forget a picture, Matt?

 

It did initially, check to see if it’s there now.

 

It's there.