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Discussion Starter #1
Forgive me if this has been covered already. I did a quick search and didn’t come up with much.

Has anyone swapped from the plastic oil pan to a metal one? I’m just over 100,000 miles my plastic oil pan is starting to leak. I do not want to put plastic back on here. Does the oil pick up tube need to be changed when changing the pan?

Thank you.
 

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The plastic is not the sole reason for the leak, rather it has been found that it was a poor silicone job from factory that caused this. As to the metal pan question i dont think anyone has documented a swap on here
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’m sure I could re-silicone the plastic pan and be fine but I absolutely hate the oil drain plug. The oil shoots out from the side and splashes all over the tire and brakes.

I reckon I will provide the information to this forum once I get this figured out. I just don’t want to be too wasteful and purchase things not needed. I was hoping someone had at least laid down the groundwork.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also find it interesting that Ford went back to a metal pan after a short run of saving some money giving us the crap tastic plastic version.

I see that RMB Motorworks has a kit ready to go with everything needed so I will have one of those next week and ready for the next oil change unless this thing starts dripping heavy
 

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We have a Gen2 oil pan kit. It includes a new aluminum pan, all the other associated parts like the new pick up that’s made that works with the pans we have, and all upgraded factory bolts that use a thread locker and sealant pre applied on the threads. We also include a superior sealant for the pan and instructions.

The oem plastic pans issues are multiple. The beveled area on the plastic sump where the rtv squeezes into doesn’t have a rough enough surface refinish to it and so rtv does not grab or grip it properly causing leakage and the issue that Evette has.

The other issue is that the plastic pan needs to sit for 3 days to actually let the rtv cure. We have removed many new oem long block plastic sumps and the middle of the rtv bead is still wet. Sand paper will help scuff up the beveled squeeze out area where the rtv actually seals. Do not fill the plastic sumps once repaired for minimum 48 hours preferably more.

Our pan kits replace it all. Come with it all, and we have in stock.




Family First
 

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Discussion Starter #6
We have a Gen2 oil pan kit. It includes a new aluminum pan, all the other associated parts like the new pick up that’s made that works with the pans we have, and all upgraded factory bolts that use a thread locker and sealant pre applied on the threads. We also include a superior sealant for the pan and instructions.

The oem plastic pans issues are multiple. The beveled area on the plastic sump where the rtv squeezes into doesn’t have a rough enough surface refinish to it and so rtv does not grab or grip it properly causing leakage and the issue that Evette has.

The other issue is that the plastic pan needs to sit for 3 days to actually let the rtv cure. We have removed many new oem long block plastic sumps and the middle of the rtv bead is still wet. Sand paper will help scuff up the beveled squeeze out area where the rtv actually seals. Do not fill the plastic sumps once repaired for minimum 48 hours preferably more.

Our pan kits replace it all. Come with it all, and we have in stock.




Family First
 

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I’m sure I could re-silicone the plastic pan and be fine but I absolutely hate the oil drain plug. The oil shoots out from the side and splashes all over the tire and brakes.

I reckon I will provide the information to this forum once I get this figured out. I just don’t want to be too wasteful and purchase things not needed. I was hoping someone had at least laid down the groundwork.
To reapply, clean, and all that....... one question

Who got time Fo-Dat

We don’t even use new pans off new long blocks. Remove rtv, blast, wash, ultrasonically clean.
Cheaper to buy a billet dry sump than a cleaned oil pan that is 2 years old



Family First
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I’ll post up a few pictures for someone else to use in case it will be helpful.

You’ve got to remove these pieces first....


Now I can see the leaking oil pan



You’ve got to remove this cross member also
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There are 16 bolts that hold the plastic pan. Some of them are difficult to get to. Just make sure you have all 16 before you try to remove the plastic piece.

 

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Get some pics from underneath too. I haven't seen under one of these and I'm confused how the new pan will work because it looks so different.
There is a block stiffener that has yet to come off. It matches the oil pan pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Get some pics from underneath too. I haven't seen under one of these and I'm confused how the new pan will work because it looks so different.
The new or pan is dimensionally the same size as the old oil pan and stiffener plate. I’ll get pictures of everything together and underneath.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Does it have more oil capacity?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It does not. Even though the oil pans are different size the total capacity remains the same because the stiffener plate is also part of the capacity. When I get a picture tomorrow you will be able to tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
There is a block stiffener that has yet to come off. It matches the oil pan pattern.
I just now got to this post, you’re exactly right. I had just mentioned that above. I will get a picture of the stiffener plate on top of the oil pan and it will be the same size as the new pan that’s going in.

Hopefully this helps the next guy
 

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Discussion Starter #20
These fasteners need to be removed from the bottom of the front cover. This will allow the wiring harness to be pulled down to access the front cover bolts.



 
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