F150 Ecoboost Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Any help would be appreciated. I have a 2016 f150 3.5 ecoboost, 108,000 miles. Changed timing chains, tensioner, guiders, cam sprokets.
truck ran perfect before I did this, just did the work because the front plate was leaking oil. With everything back together, the truck ran fine in the garage for 10-15 mins. On and off a few times to check fluids and make sure it sounded ok. After that time Islowly revels the engine to 2500rpm or so and when I let go of pedal the check engine light came on. Codes were misfire in cylinders 1&3. I changed plugs at first to different locations and then coils. Same codes in same locations.
Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
Any help would be appreciated. I have a 2016 f150 3.5 ecoboost, 108,000 miles. Changed timing chains, tensioner, guiders, cam sprokets.
truck ran perfect before I did this, just did the work because the front plate was leaking oil. With everything back together, the truck ran fine in the garage for 10-15 mins. On and off a few times to check fluids and make sure it sounded ok. After that time Islowly revels the engine to 2500rpm or so and when I let go of pedal the check engine light came on. Codes were misfire in cylinders 1&3. I changed plugs at first to different locations and then coils. Same codes in same locations.
Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Is it possible the timing chain jumped a tooth?
 
It's possible. I did timing chain and related parts because I had camshaft sensors all go off at once, then I had two cylinders misfiring and it turned out the timing had jumped and I had 14 bent valves. Hopefully that is not your case but your next step is to do a compression test on all the cylinders and post result. harbor freight or borrow a tester and hold the accelerator fully down while you crank it (so it won't send fuel) with all the plugs out and do all cylinders.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
It's possible. I did timing chain and related parts because I had camshaft sensors all go off at once, then I had two cylinders misfiring and it turned out the timing had jumped and I had 14 bent valves. Hopefully that is not your case but your next step is to do a compression test on all the cylinders and post result. harbor freight or borrow a tester and hold the accelerator fully down while you crank it (so it won't send fuel) with all the plugs out and do all cylinders.
Thank you for the info and sorry that happened. I did a compression test in all cylinders and they all read 120psi, all the same. So the good news is no damaged valves, bad news is I have no idea whats the problem.
 
Any help would be appreciated. I have a 2016 f150 3.5 ecoboost, 108,000 miles. Changed timing chains, tensioner, guiders, cam sprokets.
truck ran perfect before I did this, just did the work because the front plate was leaking oil. With everything back together, the truck ran fine in the garage for 10-15 mins. On and off a few times to check fluids and make sure it sounded ok. After that time Islowly revels the engine to 2500rpm or so and when I let go of pedal the check engine light came on. Codes were misfire in cylinders 1&3. I changed plugs at first to different locations and then coils. Same codes in same locations.
Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I’m having the same issue, I replaced the spark plug and it went away for a while but now it’s back. I’ve read that this is very common for the ecoboost. I’ve done a lot of performance upgrades and most recently a larger Mishimoto inter cooler, ive also installed an oil separator, hoping this would remove any condensation in the intercoolor and turbo system that can cause misfire. It worked awesome for 500 miles and now it’s misfiring again. My new intecooler has a drain plug to release condensation build up, I read other people drilling a tiny hole in the bottom of the stock intercooler to eliminate the condensation. I’m worried that my turbo is starting to go out or something, it’s common apparently to have oil in the system hence why drilling a hole, but I feel it shouldn’t have any and could be turbos going out. Maybe my coils need to be changed or upgraded to handle all the performance tune and everything else I’ve done? I’m not the smartest when it comes to working on my truck, but I feel like this should be an easy fix! Would love to hear anyone else and their solution to this.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top