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Are there any? I've searched, but haven't found any true proof.
 

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It is hard to prove something like this. All that you will really get are estimates. Increasing the efficiency of your vehicle will give you better gas milage, but it all comes down to how you drive it. If you are unable to keep your foot off of the floor then it will likely do nothing for you other than increase how fast you get to the speed you are wanting to go. With the EB engine, the better it breathes the more efficient it will be. So a CAI, Charge Pipe, larger Throttle Body, and an Exhaust system CAN do wonders for your truck. While the biggest boost that you will see will come with the tune, these parts are much more efficient that the factory ones and will therefore give you better gas milage so long as you drive for MPGs and not thrills. Things such and load weight, lift height and tire size/tread pattern also play a factor.
 

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The best possible mod to increase gas mileage is.....

driving conditions and your right foot.
You forgot, do lots of downhill driving too.
 
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oh! and drafting the vehicle in front of you is worth up to 30% depending on how comfortable he is with you ridin his um .


bumper
 

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In all seriousness, the only thing (other than your foot) that can help, is a specific tune designed for high fuel economy is probably the most effective.

A few years back, I was involved with group of hot rodders and we had "disassembled" the programming of the ECM (computer). It was OBD 1. We relayed a lot of the info to a company who developed a "user friendly" computer software program where we could alter the fuel maps, spark maps plus a number other items.

One interesting item we found were "Lean AF Ratio" and "Lean Spark" Maps that the manufacturer had developed the code, but disabled. After a little "bit twiddling" we were able to invoke it. In spite of all the warnings from the Debby Downers, I played with the "Lean AF" and "Lean Spark" on how they worked and if they actually did increase fuel economy. I found that I was able to lean out the AF Ratio from the normal 14.7 Stoich to 18:1.

Unfortunately, the throttle response became really spoungy and lost a lot of throttle response. At first I thought the Lean Spark was designed to decrease the Spark Advance so I wouldn't blow a hole in my pistons when running such a lean AF Ratio. But, I found quite the opposite, I found advance the spark so I was almost at 45* that restored the throttle response (there was a built in offset that kept the rotor cross-firing to the next electrode... but 45* was the limit).

The trick to all this was keeping the EGR valve working which introduce inert exhaust gas into the cylinder. I effectively reduced my cylinder filling by approximately 35% ... like a "gaseous version of cylinder deactivation".

Results, I did dramatically increase my fuel economy by 25-30%. I tested it numerous times driving a very long stretch of highway (to visit family) with the original programming and my modified programming, setting my cruise control to the same speed. Best of all, I was able to deactivate it by simply increasing my engine load from the MAP Sensor. Go up a hill or stomp on the throttle and the vehicle would immediatley return to normal operation with immediate throttle response.

So, I am absolutely convinced that a well designed tune from a tuner who spent a great deal of time testing it, can produce a good tune that can save you money .... AND not cost you any performance when you stomp on it... (but it will kill your gas mileage as stated earlier).

PS: Before anyone asks "If the manufacturer had this code in the original programming, why didn't they activate it themselve?" The only answer we could think of (since we could never find anyone who worked on the original code) is that the super lean condition probably increased some polutant ... NOx most likely. And it wouldn't get past emission testings which became more and more stringent with dyno testing in some states & provinces.

Oh yeah, the other effective ways of increasing gas mileage we found were increasing the aerodynamics of your vehicle and putting your vehicle on a severe diet.
 

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In all seriousness, the only thing (other than your foot) that can help, is a specific tune designed for high fuel economy is probably the most effective.

A few years back, I was involved with group of hot rodders and we had "disassembled" the programming of the ECM (computer). It was OBD 1. We relayed a lot of the info to a company who developed a "user friendly" computer software program where we could alter the fuel maps, spark maps plus a number other items.

One interesting item we found were "Lean AF Ratio" and "Lean Spark" Maps that the manufacturer had developed the code, but disabled. After a little "bit twiddling" we were able to invoke it. In spite of all the warnings from the Debby Downers, I played with the "Lean AF" and "Lean Spark" on how they worked and if they actually did increase fuel economy. I found that I was able to lean out the AF Ratio from the normal 14.7 Stoich to 18:1.

Unfortunately, the throttle response became really spoungy and lost a lot of throttle response. At first I thought the Lean Spark was designed to decrease the Spark Advance so I wouldn't blow a hole in my pistons when running such a lean AF Ratio. But, I found quite the opposite, I found advance the spark so I was almost at 45* that restored the throttle response (there was a built in offset that kept the rotor cross-firing to the next electrode... but 45* was the limit).

The trick to all this was keeping the EGR valve working which introduce inert exhaust gas into the cylinder. I effectively reduced my cylinder filling by approximately 35% ... like a "gaseous version of cylinder deactivation".

Results, I did dramatically increase my fuel economy by 25-30%. I tested it numerous times driving a very long stretch of highway (to visit family) with the original programming and my modified programming, setting my cruise control to the same speed. Best of all, I was able to deactivate it by simply increasing my engine load from the MAP Sensor. Go up a hill or stomp on the throttle and the vehicle would immediatley return to normal operation with immediate throttle response.

So, I am absolutely convinced that a well designed tune from a tuner who spent a great deal of time testing it, can produce a good tune that can save you money .... AND not cost you any performance when you stomp on it... (but it will kill your gas mileage as stated earlier).

PS: Before anyone asks "If the manufacturer had this code in the original programming, why didn't they activate it themselve?" The only answer we could think of (since we could never find anyone who worked on the original code) is that the super lean condition probably increased some polutant ... NOx most likely. And it wouldn't get past emission testings which became more and more stringent with dyno testing in some states & provinces.

Oh yeah, the other effective ways of increasing gas mileage we found were increasing the aerodynamics of your vehicle and putting your vehicle on a severe diet.
Dude that is really awesome that y'all did that, and the extensive research you did on your own!!

In such a lean state what did your EGT, oil and water temps look like?
 

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Dude that is really awesome that y'all did that, and the extensive research you did on your own!!

In such a lean state what did your EGT, oil and water temps look like?

I didn't measure EGT. Oil temp, water temp and tranny temps were all normal. Also, I didn't burn out my cats (another concern at the time).
 

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there is a wealth of things that people go crazy about for changing your driving style and even a list of mods to be made to a vehicle, some as simple as removing the passenger mirror
do a little research on hypermiling the people doing that are addicts
 

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In all honesty, I would LOVE to just find someone who sells the software to access the various Fuel, Spark and boost Maps in our PCM. I know of some for other manufacturers (mostly OBD 1 for another manufacturer) and a few for OBD II Systems. I am sure these PCMs are "light years" ahead of the stuff I was playing ... and I was amazed on what I was able to control and make that ECM do.


However, once we able to "dig inside", we also started to look inside some of the "aftermarket chips". It was very sad, most were absolute rip offs.
 

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In all honesty, I would LOVE to just find someone who sells the software to access the various Fuel, Spark and boost Maps in our PCM. I know of some for other manufacturers (mostly OBD 1 for another manufacturer) and a few for OBD II Systems. I am sure these PCMs are "light years" ahead of the stuff I was playing ... and I was amazed on what I was able to control and make that ECM do.

However, once we able to "dig inside", we also started to look inside some of the "aftermarket chips". It was very sad, most were absolute rip offs.
Have you looked at SCT's Avantage III Pro Racer software?
 

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BTW, to the OP ... there is a PCM Update related to poor fuel economy/emissions. Contact your dealership and see if your vehicle is affected, mine was.

I really have put many miles on my truck BUT, my mileage sucks big time ... about 10.5 mpg US in the city...and I am trying to be light with my foot too. I thought I was living a flash back into the 60s/70s where "double digit" mpg numbers was "good mileage", and single digit the norm.

The only differece was gas cost less than 50¢ a gallon when I was driving then. And we had Imperial Gallons which were 20% larger than a US Gallon. Heck, some of those cars we drove cost more to fill the oil than the gas.
 

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do some research on something called TwEECer
my buddy has an SRT4 and did some crazy stuff to it with these adjusting fuel maps and timing
he runs a huge turbo at only something like 32% and is already pushing 23 lbs
i know he has changed the pulse width of his injectors too so these thiings must do crazy stuff.

it all is way more advanced than me.
if i played with it the truck would look alot like this
untitled1.jpg
 

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Actually, tuning an engine is a lot simpler than you think. All my experience is with Naturally Aspirated Engines (preferrable with Solid Roller Cams). The real trick was measuring/monitoring your AF Ratio. Based on dyno testing, we found 12.4-12.8 was the typcial "sweet spot" for max torque/power at a any given RPM range (for a naturally aspirated engine). Carefully add more spark and monitor your knock counts (the Knock Sensor will detect way before you ever hear it).

I am an old timer (I was born slightly after dirt was invented), and when I first started playing with OBD1 ECMs, I was stunned how much easier they were able to tune over carbs. I saw the light and was converted. You can control how much fuel you want throughout the RPM Range AND at various loads (under a MAP System) and ditto for the spark.

Boost adds an entire new perspective ... and why I chose the Ecoboost engine. Yes, I won't deny it, I am dying to get inside the PCM and see what secrets it holds. One thing I learned a number of years ago, modifying and making power with a turbo engine is MUCH EASIER than a naturally aspirated engine. No more head and cam swapping. PLUS the internals of a turbo engine are generally must stronger than a naturally aspirated engine.

Unfortunately, one of the most knowledge persons on turbocharging and EFI Tuning that I knew, passed away a few years back (RIP). I am sure if he were alive today, he would have bought one of these trucks and he'd be terrorizing this website. Much of his knowledge in the DIY-EFI community is still available on the Internet. Do a google on Bruce Plecan (aka "Grump") if you interested in learning about tuning EFI engines.
 

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ok i might have misled you it seems the tweecer only supports up to 2004 so i will talk to my buddy this weekend and get some ideas on how to modify perameters on the ECM's of today
he might know something else to look at
 

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ok i might have misled you it seems the tweecer only supports up to 2004 so i will talk to my buddy this weekend and get some ideas on how to modify perameters on the ECM's of today
he might know something else to look at
That would be so COOL! :BIG THUMBS UP:

Typically, this software is readily available for "high performance cars" ... but it can be quite pricey and usually only work on one VIN. BUT, if you can get a "group buy", it may be possible to get some discount.
 

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Just my two cents, but I think ford engineers tested and poked and pried this engine/truck to get the best performance possible. I agree with the folks who say the best fuel economy will come from your right foot! My problem is my right foot does not always agree with me intentions!:rolleyes:
 
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