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I tried a clay bar and didn't really like it. Now I have a nanoskin to try. Lol.

I have some Lake Country pads of various levels, and some McKee's AIO I want to try when I tackle it next.

2016 2.7 4x4 screw
Nanoskin was too slippery. It didn't get any contamination and I was using the medium. I used a light clay bar and got a lot off it was weird.


I saw they had a 6 pad that is like clay bar but haven't looked into it enough to tell lol I feel like I can feel the paint burn from here
 

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No, DO IT NOW! I'll bet you a nickel to a dollar after a year, there WILL be swirls to correct.

I'm considering 2 or 3 steps being just that. Each successive step being a finer and less aggressive polishing pad and polish. Pad choice is just as important as polishing compound.


I forget his actual terminology, but Mike Phillips at AG teaches to use the least aggressive pad/polish that will get the job done. Try test spots first to see which pads are necessary that are aggressive enough to do the job, but not more.


2016 2.7 4x4 screw
Meh I'll just pay the difference for the added paint correction.
This cilajet is working fabulous for now.
I'm going to do the same thing for katzkins, enjoy my OEM seats until they get a little worn then get them.

Who knows though I may do ceramic coat a little sooner than planned, after I get my injen intercooler.


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Speaking of clay, I’ve tried most of the clays. the newer pads, mitts, etc. Some of the “Nanoskin-esque” products work quite well. That said, I always end up back with a clay bar (more often than not a Griots product) and a pair of scissors to cut off a small section. I find that for the most part I only spot clay these days and subsequently often only spot polish. My mindset is to not only make the least amount of work for myself but more importantly to leave as much of the finish as possible on the vehicle.

In my experience even very mild clays leave slight, if almost imperceptible marring but with the proper lighting you can always see it. I usually follow up with a light cut pad and a mild polish. I typically use Lake Country pads and Griot’s Boss polishes (I’ve grown to really like this polish line).

As someone who takes great pride in their vehicle and it’s finish but who has ended up with two shoulders that aren’t God given, this simplified process simply makes sense to me these days. It hasn’t always been that way. If I had the polisher out, the whole vehicle was getting a two or three step polish. It took me 13 hours to do a spring clean up on my Edge over a few days this past week (yeah a fair amount of time was spent on the undercarriage and wheel wells) and it wasn’t dirty by most standards. Should I had followed my old routine it would have taken me twice that long. I know that this is a coating specific thread but I ended up using two coats of a sealant (BlackFire Crystal Seal, now discontinued). It looks great. Will it last a year? No! I’m the guy that will add a booster product like McKee’s Blue Hydro at each wash to keep it up until I do it again a six months from now. I’ve used quite a few coatings but they’re just not my thing. I find them to be finicky, often costly and in some ways as much work as using a sealant more frequently.

I’ve found a modified process that works very well for ME. At the end of the day I think everyone should find something that works for THEM. Doing this factors in the cost of products and equipment, time, availability of products and overall expectations. Don’t focus too much on all the written processes from which you can choose. If you search the web long enough you can find documentation or a YouTube that will support most any detailing procedure, product or piece of equipment. These Docs and Vids more often than not only benefit the maker of distributor of product or machine but that certainly doesn’t make the implementation best for everyone. Only you know when you’ve got it right and you’re the only one you need to please. ;)

E36AEC4F-606E-4044-8138-D6CBCE34864B.jpeg

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Kinda like this last pic. If you zoom in on the paint it almost looks like it’s Silver instead of Platinum White. ;)
 

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This is good enough right now. Lol


2016 2.7 4x4 screw
Lol.
I find myself trapped exactly between you and GearHead.

When it's time to apply TLC, I'm dedicated to getting what I'm convinced is the best available. And when it's time to use the truck as a truck (mud and 4WD required) I do that too without hesitation.

Both experiences tickle me equally.

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Lol.
...And when it's time to use the truck as a truck (mud and 4WD required) I do that too without hesitation...
Hey Snake, just so we’re clear, I use my truck too. I hauled (5) 3 gallon jugs of fuel in it yesterday. Then I came home and promptly wiped that area of the bed down. Don’t get me wrong, I didn’t spill any fuel but I wiped it down anyway. :) ;) :)
 

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Hey Snake, just so we’re clear, I use my truck too. I hauled (5) 3 gallon jugs of fuel in it yesterday. Then I came home and promptly wiped that area of the bed down. Don’t get me wrong, I didn’t spill any fuel but I wiped it down anyway. :) ;) :)
You brute

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Personally I use a clay mitt for 95% of the panels and big stuff (after chemical decontamination). I think its a Griots, probably a medium grade. I like to do a quick follow up on those panels with a normal clay bar, then use the bar to get all the cracks and small areas. I've tried a few clays but I like the Meguiars yellow fine grade. Haven't tried the DA nanoskin pads, probably won't.
 

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Hey Snake, just so we’re clear, I use my truck too. I hauled (5) 3 gallon jugs of fuel in it yesterday. Then I came home and promptly wiped that area of the bed down. Don’t get me wrong, I didn’t spill any fuel but I wiped it down anyway. :) ;) :)
Just a wipe down?! Your beds gonna rot away!
 

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Discussion Starter #71
My dad has a spray in in his new super duty, and is now contemplating putting a drop in over that . Lol. He has refused to put anything in it yet. He's piling all sorts of things on his gooseneck. He's even going so far to strap his drill boxes and whatnot down on the trailer .

2016 2.7 4x4 screw
 

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I approve of your dad's behavior completely!

Lol

Nothing like a SuperDuty honeymoon.

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Wow great thread guys. I'm preparing to do 3 trucks this summer, maybe a 4th. My truck desperately needs a full correction and then I want to DIY ceramic. I was thinking of TopCoat F11 but after reading many mixed reviews of it's longevity, I think I'll go for something else.

The others would be a 2019 Ranger (Black) and 2019 Cummins (Red) for SEMA - after I finish building them. Thankfully they are both new and will have only a few miles on them when we get them prepped for SEMA. Hoping to learn from you guys what the best DIY product is. All wax and such will be cleaned off, light polish on it to get the surface as perfect as I can, and then ceramic and maybe a top coat of wax to help with depth.

I'm a DIY guy when it comes to detailing. I have a good DA and products from Chemical Guys and I did an amazing job (I think so) on my truck about 2 years ago.

Looking forward to seeing results and finding the right products for these vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
I'm not aware of many true ceramics that you can even purchase as a diy customer. However, my Crystal Serum light is one of them, and is a little more forgiving on the newbie (as I understand it) than some of the bigger name ceramic coatings.

2016 2.7 4x4 screw
 
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