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I have a 2016 like yours but long wheelbase and 4wd. I use 87 octane and it runs and tows like a champ (7500lb trailer and using all of the 1804lbs of carrying capacity).

Oil changes with 0w40 every 3-5k miles up to now. I'm trying what amounts to Quaker State euro 0w30 for this winter (rebottled for Canadian Tire by shell with MB229.51/52 and VW 504/507 approvals) as an experiment.

While the output of the intercooler is placed differently since 2015 and shouldn't suck sludge into the engine, I drilled a 1/16" hole at the low point and quite a bit of gunk comes out anyway as can be evidenced by the stain on my garage wall and floor where the hole is. I have no issues with fuel dilution...the level remains fixed throughout the oil change and that includes short commutes at -30C and lower in the winter.

Spark plugs are easy and the recommended plug is now the SP580 from the original SP 534. I have tried both of these along with the SP550 and the truck idles and runs best with the SP550s. Not sure why. I just smear a bit of dielectric grease around the inside of the opening of the boots when I put them back on and they pop out with ease. Not like the first (dry) removal that required levering with a screwdriver to pry them up.

I run Redline D4 in the transfer case (yours is 2WD so not required) and ford's 75w140 in the differential (changed at 12k miles from the original 75w85). I replaced the transmission pan with a dorman one with a drain plug at 20k miles and replaced about 7 quarts of fluid at that point. I'm now at 49k miles and just did a drain and fill of 6 quarts using the drain plug. Much cleaner and easier. The 6R80 transmission has a service interval from Ford of 150k miles, but the ZF one that it's based on has a 60k mile service interval. I would suggest 60k miles for a pan drop and fluid/filter refresh (just whatever it takes to replace the lost fluid, not a flush...around 7 quarts or so). The pan gasket is reuseable (like a lubelocker in function).

As stated, bringing the boost to max pressure and exercising the wastegates is useful to keep them able to run full range. That means DRIVE the crap out of it now and again. Fun stuff.
 

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2016 Ford F-150 XLT 2.7 Ecoboost 3.55 Axle
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Thank you! I was hoping someone would bring me back down to earth. This 55 year old turned back into a 20 year old the moment I heard the turbos and felt power again. I got to thinking I may have been looking at the wrong plugs. I need to check my manual against the parts website.
If I were you, the big mod that you “should” do is get a better intercooler. These factory ones heat soak so fast and you’ll be down on power. Get the CVF Titan Intercooler. I have it, and many other people do. It is a really great intercooler. Definitely brings the intake temperature down so that the truck doesn’t limit load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Awesome forum! I appreciate everyone’s reply’s. I’m going to have to start a truck account like my boat account. Lol I’m having to explain to the boss why I have all this maintenance to do on a truck I just bought but she understands it’s to make it last. Spark plugs are no problem. Will get the transmission fluid changed ASAP (can’t crawl around under vehicles like I used to and save money). I’m sure the previous owner was fallowing Ford guid lines. I don’t see any of these services done on the Carfax report anyway,for what that’s worth. Thanks again for everyone sharing there knowledge. This is great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I have a 2016 like yours but long wheelbase and 4wd. I use 87 octane and it runs and tows like a champ (7500lb trailer and using all of the 1804lbs of carrying capacity).

Oil changes with 0w40 every 3-5k miles up to now. I'm trying what amounts to Quaker State euro 0w30 for this winter (rebottled for Canadian Tire by shell with MB229.51/52 and VW 504/507 approvals) as an experiment.

While the output of the intercooler is placed differently since 2015 and shouldn't suck sludge into the engine, I drilled a 1/16" hole at the low point and quite a bit of gunk comes out anyway as can be evidenced by the stain on my garage wall and floor where the hole is. I have no issues with fuel dilution...the level remains fixed throughout the oil change and that includes short commutes at -30C and lower in the winter.

Spark plugs are easy and the recommended plug is now the SP580 from the original SP 534. I have tried both of these along with the SP550 and the truck idles and runs best with the SP550s. Not sure why. I just smear a bit of dielectric grease around the inside of the opening of the boots when I put them back on and they pop out with ease. Not like the first (dry) removal that required levering with a screwdriver to pry them up.

I run Redline D4 in the transfer case (yours is 2WD so not required) and ford's 75w140 in the differential (changed at 12k miles from the original 75w85). I replaced the transmission pan with a dorman one with a drain plug at 20k miles and replaced about 7 quarts of fluid at that point. I'm now at 49k miles and just did a drain and fill of 6 quarts using the drain plug. Much cleaner and easier. The 6R80 transmission has a service interval from Ford of 150k miles, but the ZF one that it's based on has a 60k mile service interval. I would suggest 60k miles for a pan drop and fluid/filter refresh (just whatever it takes to replace the lost fluid, not a flush...around 7 quarts or so). The pan gasket is reuseable (like a lubelocker in function).

As stated, bringing the boost to max pressure and exercising the wastegates is useful to keep them able to run full range. That means DRIVE the crap out of it now and again. Fun stuff.
You got me on the oil. Using a 0w is new to me. I was planning on running what Ford says to run. My last truck was a 2005,4.6 and I ran 10w30 for awhile then as the mileage got higher switched to 10w40. I feel like Rip Van winkle with all the changes and technology with this truck. Iridium spark plugs that have to be gapped carefully so I don’t mess up the electrode etc. i learned about them just a couple of months ago when I changed the plugs in my wife’s Focus. I’m having to catch up here.
 

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The 0 weight oil is a bit thin for my personal taste but I wouldn't fault someone for giving it a shot. We have several members on the forum that will tell you they quite like 5w40 and Euro oils. Personally, I'm happy with 5w30.
 

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You got me on the oil. Using a 0w is new to me. I was planning on running what Ford says to run. My last truck was a 2005,4.6 and I ran 10w30 for awhile then as the mileage got higher switched to 10w40. I feel like Rip Van winkle with all the changes and technology with this truck. Iridium spark plugs that have to be gapped carefully so I don’t mess up the electrode etc. i learned about them just a couple of months ago when I changed the plugs in my wife’s Focus. I’m having to catch up here.
Use Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w30, Ford isn’t dumb, they know what the best oil for their vehicles is.
 

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...Ford isn’t dumb, they know what the best oil for their vehicles is.
Is that like Ford knows the best shocks, best swaybars, best tires, best intercoolers, and so on? And of course, they use the best, and recommend the best intervals right?

@Douglasdzaster, be careful of recommendations that deal in absolutes, BEST is such a relative term. Use a quality oil (there are many) that meets ALL of the manufacturer's requirements.

Change your oil regularly and I would suggest more frequently (less than 5K) than Ford recommends. Use a quality filter, Ford does a good job with theirs. You'll be good to go
 

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Is that like Ford knows the best shocks, best swaybars, best tires, best intercoolers, and so on? And of course, they use the best, and recommend the best intervals right?

@Douglasdzaster, be careful of recommendations that deal in absolutes, BEST is such a relative term. Use a quality oil (there are many) that meets ALL of the manufacturer's requirements. Change your oil regularly and I would suggest more frequently (less than 5K) than Ford recommends. Use a quality filter, Ford does a good job with theirs. You'll be good to go
Ok ok, I suppose I didn’t need to use “best” in my comment. Go-lly. I just meant that the Motorcraft 5w-30 is good oil. But yes there are many other good ones.
 
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Use Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w30, Ford isn’t dumb, they know what the best oil for their vehicles is.
Ford first recommended 5-20 for the 3.5 Ecoboost.

So apparently THEY even concluded perhaps THEY were dumb?

I personally believe that Ford, as well as many other manufacturers, worship at the alter of fuel efficiency to a fault! They are heavily incentivized to because for Them, not you, a savings of 1 mpg is worth $millions. Literally.

So variable oil pressure pumps, altenators that stop creating energy, and 5-20...ooops 5-30......

It's not necessarily Ford trying to give you the longest lasting truck possible. They need it to last 60,000 miles.

These are amazing trucks. Ford gets my respect for so many reasons. But NOT for their service recommendations. Those are not necessarily driven by what is best for the long term health of my truck. I just have to be logical about those kinds of things.

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Ford first recommended 5-20 for the 3.5 Ecoboost.

So apparently THEY even concluded perhaps THEY were dumb?

I personally believe that Ford, as well as many other manufacturers, worship at the alter of fuel efficiency to a fault! They are heavily incentivized to because for Them, not you, a savings of 1 mpg is worth $millions. Literally.

So variable oil pressure pumps, altenators that stop creating energy, and 5-20...ooops 5-30......

It's not necessarily Ford trying to give you the longest lasting truck possible. They need it to last 60,000 miles.

These are amazing trucks. Ford gets my respect for so many reasons. But NOT for their service recommendations. Those are not necessarily driven by what is best for the long term health of my truck. I just have to be logical about those kinds of things.

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Did you read my last post?
 

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The jump from 5w20 to 5w30 was simply because this “New Technology” was more tough on oil than they anticipated. The 5w20 passed testing no problem, but there were instances where the oil became very thin.

The funny thing being, fuel dilution was never an issue in the engineering notes. It only became an issue when consumers did not drive the truck as intended. Short trips, long idle times, etc. They designed it to be a workhorse.

Nowadays it’s who gets the best MPG.
 

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Yes. I wasn't intending my response to be a sermon for you. Lol
Rather a response for anyone to consider in the future when they take the stance that "Ford knows best".

Ford DOES know the most about this motor. No doubt. But they aren't going to EVER have an honest back-room discussion, let alone a public one, about these kinds of things.

Edit: it's not uncommon for manufacturers of internal combustion engines to publish oil recommendations that vary based on ambient temperatures, as well as the type of use the vehicle experiences. In other words, different viscosity range for hot/cold climate, as well as load based use.
I'm OK that Ford chooses to list a single viscosity for someone in Ontario in the winter as well as someone in Florida summers. For someone who uses their truck as an empty commuter vehicle and someone who is towing 5000lbs daily for their construction job. 5-30 is probably right in the middle and thus where they land if they are going to stick to a single recommendation. But I'll never be convinced that there aren't benefits/trade-offs to adjusting that narrow recommendation to accommodate real-world conditions.

Just my opinion. I will admit that fresh oil is MOST important in a 100HP/liter motor.





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Whew, kinda warm in this post! Sounds like the OP has a good handle on maintenance. His choice of weight range suits the colder climate in Canada, and is mentioned in Ford recommendations. What drive oil weight parameters? I always thought it has a lot to do with the clearances and need for the oil to flow, the Duratec was CNC machined with tight clearances, the successor 3.5 and Nano 2.7 machined to the same tolerances. They can be picky about weight, and on top of the whole pile is oil blending developments. Some oils are more slippery, possibly a good thing but not always.

TCP2, keep up with the schedule. It sounds good to me. And the consideration of upgrading the CAC/intercooler is worthwhile, even on an otherwise bone stock F150, for reasons stated. KM
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Whew, kinda warm in this post! Sounds like the OP has a good handle on maintenance. His choice of weight range suits the colder climate in Canada, and is mentioned in Ford recommendations. What drive oil weight parameters? I always thought it has a lot to do with the clearances and need for the oil to flow, the Duratec was CNC machined with tight clearances, the successor 3.5 and Nano 2.7 machined to the same tolerances. They can be picky about weight, and on top of the whole pile is oil blending developments. Some oils are more slippery, possibly a good thing but not always.

TCP2, keep up with the schedule. It sounds good to me. And the consideration of upgrading the CAC/intercooler is worthwhile, even on an otherwise bone stock F150, for reasons stated. KM
Not in Canada. The opposite of Canada. I’m in central Texas. Going with the 5w30. Unless advised otherwise. I thought location would have something to do with different things.
I didn’t mean to stir the pot. Lol
 

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You didn't stir the pot.
But it's inevitable that a maintenance thread will include a little oil-thread content. :)

I personally think this one has been more than civil. :)



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Be damned did it again, looking in new posts found this hence my response. Dumbbell me only scrolled to the top to find TCP's post #21.
Completely forgot I responded early.

Never mind me here, just another old fart! KM
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Okay here’s another question. At 80,000 miles I’m wanting to do the first transmission service as per the advice I’m receiving on mai intervals.
Do I do a complete flush or just a pan drop and filter and replace that fluid?
Thanks again for all the reply’s and discussion. This is the best forum I’ve been a part of.
 

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Okay here’s another question. At 80,000 miles I’m wanting to do the first transmission service as per the advice I’m receiving on mai intervals.
Do I do a complete flush or just a pan drop and filter and replace that fluid?
Thanks again for all the reply’s and discussion. This is the best forum I’ve been a part of.
Just a pan drop and filter/fluid change. No flush. Even tho the gasket is reusable - I always replace it.
 
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