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Discussion Starter #101
Anybody have any suggestions on how to add some backlighting on that liquid filled pressure gauge? I'm sure I wont be able to "insert" a light in the gauge itself, but was thinking of some type of small backwards-facing light that I can install just below the gauge to shine up at it? Just like a little red LED or something. Idk, just trying to brainstorm here. Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #103
I drilled a 1/16” hole in the center of the drain plug of my Mishimoto intercooler...
I just did this also. More permanent solution coming soon. Stay tuned
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Okay, so I have to add a disclaimer... I was so impressed with the specs on the CPE intercooler (from END ALL BE ALL - 11-14 Intercooler Thread), that I decided to purchase it about a month ago. Shortly after installing, I began having issues with a misfire. Long story short, after many headaches and hours of diagnosing, the solution was much simpler than I thought. The intercooler is so efficient, that water was accumulating in the intercooling at an alarming rate. Once realized, I began draining on a daily basis and I was getting nearly a 1/4 of water combined out of both drain holes PER DAY! I discussed this with CPE directly and they highly recommended purchasing the UPR Mega catch can with the upgraded PCV valves since I was running higher boost with a custom tune. The cost of the catch can was $480 plus.

For a temporary band-aid, I drilled a 1/16 inch weep hole in both of the 1/8NPT drain plugs just to give me some piece of mind that I wouldn't suck up a gulp of water and hydro-lock my motor.

Mind you, this was in a very very wet and cold western New York February climate, so that was a big factor, I'm sure. This may not be as much of an issue in hotter and dryer climates. However, with everything in mind, I decided to return the CPE intercooler and purchase a Full Race intercooler. The FR will completely eliminate any worries of condensation buildup by the raised position of the IC and the position of the BOV on the lower charge pipe.

It's really not that much more money for the Full Race ($1400 including tax and a Tial Q bov) compared to the $688 + $480 for the IC and catch can which adds up to over $1170 before tax, and with the stock bov.

All in all, I was very impressed with the CPE, and I'm sure it will work amazing for many people, just not for me. I have nothing against CPE, and once again I cant stress enough how impressed I was with the quality of the IC. I just got freaked out by the amount of water I was sucking up and feel lucky it didn't cause me some serious issues.

And for all you that are gonna say "I told you so" that I should have went with the FR from the start, yes, you were right. I am THAT GUY tho that enjoys trying/testing the less common, or less-well-known parts, from smaller companies, and hoping that they are just a diamond in the rough waiting to be fully discovered.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
For those wondering what I'm referring to in regards to the Ford Muscle article about the coils, see below:



 

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Discussion Starter #107
I got my autometer gauge pod painted and installed today. I think it turned out awesome

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Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content
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Discussion Starter #109 (Edited)
Cleaned my nozzle filter today. Holy yuck. Granted, I have not cleaned it since I began filtering my methanol with paint filters, or since I changed my tank
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Discussion Starter #110
Here's a better sunlight close-up of the color match and that paint mix I used
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Discussion Starter #112
Trying to keep busy while waiting for my Full Race Intercooler to come in. Got my Grillcraft grill on today and I think it turned out AWESOME!!!!!!! I love it! Also got my front tow hook-shackle conversion on, and a kicker hideaway installed. Def gonna have to play with the sub to get it tuned properly
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Discussion Starter #113
UPR pass side catch can on
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Discussion Starter #114
SPD catted downpipes and turbo adapters will be here Wednesday. Will install the new Bosch upstream O2 sensors with the new pipe. Today marks day #3 in a row of soaking those turbo flange bolts with some Seafoam Deep Creep (best I've ever used, compared with PB penetrating, WD penetrating, and even Kroil)
 

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Discussion Starter #115
Heck yeah! Got my downpipe off today and guess what!?!?!? Two studs came out with the pipe! Studs broke loose better than the nuts! Thank God for seafoam deep creep. I think I'll spray the last two studs again anyway and let them soak overnight before I try getting the last two studs off.
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Discussion Starter #116
The two stragglers soaking for the night
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Just a FYI, but the Turbo adapter sits flush on the turbo. If you're replacing them with SPD'S (or AMS), you can tap on the adapter too to help get the stud to crack loose. I did them on a friends '15 and ended up having to use MAP gas and get the turbine housing around the stud hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Just a FYI, but the Turbo adapter sits flush on the turbo. If you're replacing them with SPD'S (or AMS), you can tap on the adapter too to help get the stud to crack loose. I did them on a friends '15 and ended up having to use MAP gas and get the turbine housing around the stud hot.
Good idea. I'm fighting the last two now. My propane torch isn't quite cutting, gonna have to get some mapp and see if that's any better
 

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Discussion Starter #120
Map/pro max heat (ts8000) did the trick! 3 down, one to go!

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Update: Map/Pro was a freaking lifesaver. What a beautiful sight!
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