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Ummmmm, is it OK if I tell you that I am NOT astonished? Stops like a truck. And it doesn't take much to get some fade if you are misbehaving.

Still, I'm willing to admit it is enough brake for 99% of truck driving.

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Discussion Starter #3,363
Ryan, I SAW IT!

(hint: oil pressure)

That's awesome!

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I am gifting that to you and the part number in the system is

RMB-0411-UNC-G2BL


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Awwww, I Blush.

Technical question: Since the Gen2 actually has an oil pressure sensor somewhere that talks to the ODB, does that change?

Or does this not affect the existing sensor itself at all? (I obviously don't know where that dang thing is lol)

Love the part#! I don't deserve that. Lol



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Ummmmm, is it OK if I tell you that I am NOT astonished? Stops like a truck. And it doesn't take much to get some fade if you are misbehaving.
You'd be surprised. I've had the stock brakes hot enough to the point all 4 were smoking, and they were still effective. Faded a bit, sure, but still in pretty decent shape.

I heat-soak my intercooler long before the brakes become a problem. I will go to the Z36 kit when I replace the brakes, but that'll be it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3,366 (Edited)
Awwww, I Blush.

Technical question: Since the Gen2 actually has an oil pressure sensor somewhere that talks to the ODB, does that change?

Or does this not affect the existing sensor itself at all? (I obviously don't know where that dang thing is lol)

Love the part#! I don't deserve that. Lol



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The variable displacement pump can be adjusted in the calibration and “shut off” . Logic won’t be applied which isn’t logical to anyone I speak with.

We can either put a cup plug in the hole after we remove the seal which seals it 100%.

I like this better though, and we thread the ID of the hole once the seals removed. Then you can thread a fitting in allowing you to run a pressure vac sensor, or some clear see thru glass and neon lights so you look to be having a disco inside the oil pan
 

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Discussion Starter #3,367
Brembos would only be good if actually pre running in this instance, otherwise just looks. I almost pulled the trigger for just looks but couldnt.
Brembos are probably the last set of brakes on the market to run in a trophy or prerunner type truck. There are many design reasons with the calipers and such, however they can also only fit on a 20” rim which isn’t used in a prerunner that’s prerunning a race or trophy truck running a race. The caliper can’t hang and the aluminum housings crack for their aluminum properties.

I will mention I love Brembos and we’re and are my favorite brake regarding stopping power and performance but all products excel here and sacrifice somewhere elseZ

The absolute best set of big brakes for offroad and hard pre running or some short or long course races are for sure the 6 piston ALCON brakes. They use a special ductile Iron to prevent the calipers from cracking with the heat generated in such driving. They were designed , and engineered to be purpose built, and feedback I get is their phenomenal/


The other big deal is ALCON allows for a 17” rim to be used if I’m not mistaken which is what everyone runs but maybe one odd guy on 18s which they fit too pretty sure. . They’re not going to fit the upgraded and fabricated spindles from RPG,( on specific year and models) so you’ll be going ALCON on the reads onlyZ. And he had to do BAER in fronts. They suck if I’m honest but if kept clean and he’d in; should wear well

The Brembo brakes on this new raptor in the shop are probably the best stopping brakes on the market and if you plan on pushing a big ol truck, with big ol power, you can live with 20” rims on your raptor knowing that they must stay 20’s and you cannot race on 20’s or at least no one does. If that all is ok, but these won’t regret them.



These 2019 raptors are really nice trucks, and Ford did a nice job with the minor year to year upgrades IMO.

The live shock valving is something I personally don’t like, and I also do not like the secondary trans cooler and failsafe. Deleting them all and it is a waste of space and a waste of fittings that will leak someday. It serves no purpose as to why ford used it once you have the upgraded parts in place for cooling. (Example: CAC, performance rad, trans cooler and oil cooler. Once you have the above performance parts and cores can flow through better, you can ditch this junk; run AN hoses to a trans cooler and keep it simple stupid
Last note:

These 10ar 80’s are nice but I’m sure if you lay the hammer on it and you have some power you’ll break it. I’ve broken two 10r80’s in two 2018 coyote F-150 I had. The converter for the 10R80 is very nice as well
 

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When I stated Brembo, it was just a generic term I used for Big Brakes. Noone just driving around needs 6 piston plus.

When you speak of heat, the material matters as you said. Most rotors are G3000 Iron grade. I run R1 Concepts which are G3500 Iron grade. The top grade is G4000 I believe.

R1 concepts also sells a 8 piston caliper for F150. I don't know what wheel size it needs to fit.
 

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When I stated Brembo, it was just a generic term I used for Big Brakes. Noone just driving around needs 6 piston plus.

When you speak of heat, the material matters as you said. Most rotors are G3000 Iron grade. I run R1 Concepts which are G3500 Iron grade. The top grade is G4000 I believe.

R1 concepts also sells a 8 piston caliper for F150. I don't know what wheel size it needs to fit.
I'm cool with the "Big Brake" generalization. It fits perfectly with your point.

But on these trucks you will find with research they (Big Breaks) are ANYTHING but similar amongst the few choices.

Just the fact that so FEW are actually sold in a market that represents the best selling vehicle in America year after year, also supports your "you don't need them" point.

But hey, if you are going to use the "need" filter around here? Lol

This forum would DIE a quick death.

We don't NEED 90% of what we do to our trucks.

By the way, I NEED to brake hard and late. For me it's just as much a part of having fun as pushing the go pedal. I like to turn too.

I'm a motorcyclist in a truck. A very expensive proposition, in fact. I can only do this ONE time with ONE truck. That's why I called it bucket-list the day I joined here.

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Discussion Starter #3,371 (Edited)
Ohh, so many big things to throw out that are platform firsts, where would y’all like me to start. 1000+HP time attack car or billet valve covers and Intake manifold with 12 port injectors.




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DO you also have any plans to offer a upgrade to move the timing chain tensioner to the proper side so it works better? Are there any upgraded chains or metal guides instead of plastic in the works?
 

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Pics of the valve covers please. You may actually have a pic in your post but it only shows as a box.
Didn’t run them yet. We are doing Gen2 first and there are a few details left to iron out but we will probably be running them within the next few weeks. There are a few hard deadlines and they have to make it on the trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3,376
When I stated Brembo, it was just a generic term I used for Big Brakes. Noone just driving around needs 6 piston plus.

When you speak of heat, the material matters as you said. Most rotors are G3000 Iron grade. I run R1 Concepts which are G3500 Iron grade. The top grade is G4000 I believe.

R1 concepts also sells a 8 piston caliper for F150. I don't know what wheel size it needs to fit.
I think you would be surprised if I showed you where those rotors come from. 99.99% of brakes are made in China with very terrible oversight and poor materials. I’m working with a time attack team and the father of the driver was in that world professionally with something to do in oversite if manufacturing. Very interesting information and how things are done and it would blow your mind. I know nothing about R1 so nothing against that, but marketing swank is strong on brakes. They are nuts with it and genius honestly
 

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Discussion Starter #3,377
Is there any plans for a larger oil pan that fits stock position?
We use dry sumps not larger wet sumps. Making some for the sho though because it’s a different story but why would we make larger oil pans? There is zero issues and drain back is fine. First step would be to add 1-2 quarts of oil with a real oil cooler and filter setup.

What’s with sump?


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DO you also have any plans to offer a upgrade to move the timing chain tensioner to the proper side so it works better? Are ther any upgraded chains or metal guides instead of plastic in the works?
All answered already, we have a fully upgraded timing component kit and it’s almost ready, we will not take preorders or anything of that nature.

What timing chain is tensioned wrong? Gen1 or two.

The details of what is in the setup will be coming with a full write up and information. Gen2 is priority however so gen1 is about 3-4 weeks behind that. They are having bigger issues than gen1 ever had but once fixed they are a better timing chain drive design
 

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Yes, almost all rotors and pads are made in china. R1 concepts rotors are supposedly cast in UK and finished in California.

Larger pan for more oil yes. Dry sump is expensive and not practical for a DD. I dont see anything on your site yet still for oil relocation. Only thing listed is sandwich plate for stock housing. It doesnt show any lines with it etc and says setrab cooler. At one point you said setrab wasnt the best and you would use something else. I dont see the filter housing delete kit on the site either you posted about a few pages back.

Interested to see the timing kits. How are the Gen 2 having more issues? They use proper dual chains i thought?
 

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I'm only guessing WooBoost, but the Gen2 trucks seem to be having a much higher percentage of trucks developing the cold start clack, and at MUCH lower mileage.

Ford has a MESS on their hands because almost all of these trucks are well within warranty. They aren't getting away with this on newer trucks.

In my opinion it's costing them very similar to the 6.0 diesel head gasket fiasco. (poor oil cooler design)

Big hit to their public perception and reputation.

Again, my opinion from a distance.



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