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Just to touch on previous post on oil setup. Here is how the blocks oil goes in and out to and from the cooler and remote filter mount.

this is plumbed on a gen2. the oem sensor is an odd one, but still just a m12x1.5.

the kicker was it’s just a metric straight cut oring seal, BUT the body of the sensor (it’s machined out of aluminum) is also a 45 degree crush washer which seals on a straight machined face on oem filter housing which is flat. i had to machine the bevel and depth perfect to maintain crush, and oring seal. very odd but i’m sure it works

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Not like holding them both in your hands but they look like they are possibly interchangeable?
inCollage_20191015_201755682.jpg


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I have already seen some guys online do it, I just don't know the extra details of what is needed for it. It would be a good upgrade if you have to take things parts.
 

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They are a direct swap, just press in a new Ball-joint.

I need to shave some weight, so next suspension service, I'll be swapping mine.
That's what I thought aka posted above.

I would only replace if I need new ball joints and I'll probably never need those unless I keep really really long time.
 

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That's what I thought aka posted above.

I would only replace if I need new ball joints and I'll probably never need those unless I keep really really long time.
Wait. You asked. Got the best news possible. But you ain't doing it? Lol

Just messing with ya

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Wait. You asked. Got the best news possible. But you ain't doing it? Lol

Just messing with ya

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Cause maybe someone will read it and want to do it. It's a daily driver truck, im not trying to cut weight lol. Much easier to just buy a 15+, you will have the alum. spindle and the whole body too!
 

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Only 4.2? Can’t you get 5.0 out of it? Heck, would have thought a guy like you would have figured that out.








I’m kiddin’ of course.
I made a similar snarky remark over coffee with Ryan in person.
A forum just doesn't capture his sense of humor and personality. But he gave me a sincere and amazing explanation of why it's 4.2

When he finished, I just looked at him and said something like "Ummm Ryan, I'm really not worth that much information. You really shouldn't waste whatever you just said on me"

Point is, I'm convinced 4.2 makes PERFECT sense. I just couldn't repeat why.

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Ryan,

Has anyone tried to do a build, for whatever reason, that has a different crank and whatever supporting items to make the firing order different?
 

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Ryan,

Has anyone tried to do a build, for whatever reason, that has a different crank and whatever supporting items to make the firing order different?
not the firing order but we have different cranks with different strokes and rod pin diameters. different oiling and such.

at a sustained 600 hp (like road race, drifting, or a lemans style race) the gen 1 and gen 2 cranks will micro fracture at the rod pins. that’s serious abuse though. one of the biggest design features we use is to cut down on windage on the counterweights. while we have a nice circle protecting the crank, a nasty pressure wave pushes up the pass side oil drain. it however creates the vacuum on the opposing side


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