F150 Ecoboost Forum banner

81 - 100 of 3399 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Looks great, man! Been stalking this site since I got my 2014 ecoboost and you seem to have already done almost every single performance and suspension modification that I have been looking at. Excuse my lack of knowledge at this point, but what is the purpose of the catch can if you already have the intercooler with the BOV at the lowest point in the CAC tube? I know there is a valid answer, I just cannot think of it myself. Also can't wait to see how you like the new turbos! Please keep us updated. Thanks!
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
7,054 Posts
Discussion Starter #82
Looks great, man! Been stalking this site since I got my 2014 ecoboost and you seem to have already done almost every single performance and suspension modification that I have been looking at. Excuse my lack of knowledge at this point, but what is the purpose of the catch can if you already have the intercooler with the BOV at the lowest point in the CAC tube? I know there is a valid answer, I just cannot think of it myself. Also can't wait to see how you like the new turbos! Please keep us updated. Thanks!
There are a lot of misconceptions on what catch cans do. One of the biggest is that they help condensation in your CAC. They do nothing for condensation and are in place to catch oil vapors, blow by and other byproducts of our system. Direct injection will not wash the valves as port injected vehicles do, so it helps keep them clean by filtering and keeping a cleaner system, as well as keep the drivers side turbo cleaner.

Prior to relocating my Full Race intercooler up higher, my Stock CAC was highly prone to condensation, and particularly in winter and colder more humid climates. I had an AFE charge pipe on it and I couldn't take off the coupling to the cac without it spewing all over the place. That was with the hole drilled and a different catch can setup.

Relocating the CAC in my opinion is important and it proved itself to me, and by locating the bov down lower as I did only benefits my system and with turbos coming prevent any high boost leaks on OEM EBOV.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
7,054 Posts
Discussion Starter #83 (Edited)
Will post more, but last minute decision and interested to see what if the dyno results confirm some suspicions I have comparing them to the current set I am running .
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
823 Posts
how are all you guys living in emissions testing states are able to run careless down pipes and still register the trucks?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Please post the results, I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on a set of these myself. Can't beat FR quality
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
7,054 Posts
Discussion Starter #87
how are all you guys living in emissions testing states are able to run careless down pipes and still register the trucks?
Dealer friend throws a sticker on every so often pushing the date. I am now due end of 2018z. It is very easy to throw on a set of OEM on for inspection. It's a 2 hour job in the driveway with front up on jacks or ramps.

I have done 8-9 downpipe swaps now. For me and other to help them out at my house
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
823 Posts
ah I didn't realize it was such an easy swap actually - on my vw it's more like a 6 hour job. lot more room on our trucks I guess!
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
7,054 Posts
Discussion Starter #89
ah I didn't realize it was such an easy swap actually - on my vw it's more like a 6 hour job. lot more room on our trucks I guess!
plenty of room. The most difficult bolt to get at is driverside upper right. Use a swivel on with the socket and a little electrical tape around. Keeps it more controllable and from falling at 90 degrees. A 3/8" impact (in this case I don't need air. I used my Milwaukee battery operated one) and it is plenty. Just make sure you use hi temp nickel anti-seize on the turbo studs and O2's.

Actually the most time consuming part is dropping the crossmember bracing a trans, and removing the stock DP's
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
Can you explain the hose routing?

Finished install for now. After turbos I will get new lines in and extend them all to retain engine cover. All said and done it took 1 hour and I heated PCV lines to pull connectors out without cutting them up.
Hi, as I understand it, regardless of specific can choice, on the ecoboost, for maximum performance, the can routing needs to be like this diagram. I'll be interested to see what you catch with the routing pictured.

Thanks,
Dave

RXEcoboostdiagram_zpsaceb831b.jpeg
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
7,054 Posts
Discussion Starter #91
Hi, as I understand it, regardless of specific can choice, on the ecoboost, for maximum performance, the can routing needs to be like this diagram. I'll be interested to see what you catch with the routing pictured. Thanks, Dave <img src="http://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=45374"/>
Dave you have been very misinformed and your hose and routing isn't optimal. Who provided your information to you and can you post image of your RX catch can please
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,591 Posts
, The diagram is NOT the best, but it is right.
It's definitely not up to scale.
Just make sure you place the one way check valves in... facing away from the can> A & C barbs. Blow through them to make sure air flows away from can before you put them in.
I didn't like the 1/2" plastic "threaded barbs" that came with the kit, that go into the passenger turbo tube and air box...go to a hardware store and get brass/metal.
Also use metal automotive clamps on all connections!
Double check the fittings on the can tighten them snug(use teflon tape).
Good to go.


Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
7,054 Posts
Discussion Starter #93 (Edited)
, The diagram is NOT the best, but it is right. It's definitely not up to scale. Just make sure you place the one way check valves in... facing away from the can> A & C barbs. Blow through them to make sure air flows away from can before you put them in. I didn't like the 1/2" plastic "threaded barbs" that came with the kit, that go into the passenger turbo tube and air box...go to a hardware store and get brass/metal. Also use metal automotive clamps on all connections! Double check the fittings on the can tighten them snug(use teflon tape). Go to go. Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Why is this turning into catch can conversation? This is not how I believe this engine should have a catch can ran, and especially for our turbo turbo application.

Please no more comments on catch cans as I really want to keep my build thread on track please.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,175 Posts
Seeing the pictures of your new downpipes makes me want to lay under the truck and stare at mine for a while LOL..... sexy.
Looking great!
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
7,054 Posts
Discussion Starter #95
Seeing the pictures of your new downpipes makes me want to lay under the truck and stare at mine for a while LOL..... sexy. Looking great!
thanks. What you waiting for get under there
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,175 Posts
thanks. What you waiting for get under there
I told you the other day.... Hot, blond...

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
7,054 Posts
Discussion Starter #99
Just a quick update regarding my Full Race Catch Can.

I live, and work in the northeast. We see cold, humid, dry, hot weather year round. My can has under 800 miles on it since newly installed.

Findings: 12oz of the good stuff caught. 75-85% was a clearish gas type liquid and the balance was consistency of chocolate milk.... Extra dark. The odor was consistent of gas and other byproducts.

Few things to keep note:

Draining:
Fastest and simplest way so far is to remove (2) 7MM fasteners mounting can to back of engine bay above back of the motor. Once removed (carefully so they aren't dropped) the three quick connects can be snapped off starting with turbo connection first, then followed by PCV valve and drivers side valve cover.

Hoses remain attached to can, then take your (1/4") I think Allen to loosen the supplied plug and drain into collection.

Tighten Allen plug first when done draining, and wiping down the can.

The clip back all three lines in reverse order and install both 7mm screws to mount the can again.

Total time. 1 minute 55 seconds.

Note: the can wasn't even half full and don't think it was close to the half mark.

Due to modifications, I am going to move my oil change intervals to 3,000 miles max using Amsoil Signature Series. At this time I will drain can and check for level of byproduct fluid in the can. Current OCI 3500-4500 miles (4500 is a lot for me and as bad as I ever let it go)

Weather: 50% humidity and 4*F - 40*F
Time of year: Winter (stating obvious) but plan to update throughout the seasons at each drain

No picture because I knocked the bottle over on the just rolled and compacts stone driveway. I hate it and can't wait for spring for new paving and garage. (Lift?)

Also last note: installing a petcock or ball valve to drain may end up being more difficult and I like the current method.

Very happy!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
752 Posts
Sounds like it's working.
Question: why would installing a ball valve or similar be difficult? Space between engine cover, and catch box? (Can)
 
81 - 100 of 3399 Posts
About this Discussion
3.4K Replies
130 Participants
sleipnir
F150 Ecoboost Forum
F150Ecoboost.net is the best Ford F150 Ecoboost Forum with discussions on 2011+ F150 Ecoboost Trucks. Discuss performance mods, towing questions, wheels, tires, lift kits, and much more!
Full Forum Listing
Top