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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I stumbled across a used set of OEM headlights on eBay for 70$. I bought them, put the eBay pair on my truck and started my retrofit project. I decided to retrofit the pair that I had on my truck since they were in better shape than the ones I got on eBay.

This is going to be updated as I go. As I have not received my order from TRS yet.

Step 1: Removed the headlights from the truck by removing the 3 mounting screws *10mm I believe*. (if pics needed let me know)

Step 2: Clean any dirt, road grime, etc from the headlights (the less foreign debris burning in your oven, the happier your wife will be)

Step 3: Flip the headlight over to the back side. Remove the one 8mm screw *this holds the trim piece inside to the back of the headlight. It will need to be removed before separating the headlights, or else you will break the trim piece when you pull the halves apart. Also remove the rubber dust cover.

Step 4: Preheat your oven to 250 degrees F. I would not recommend sitting the headlight directly on the oven rack, I used a piece of cardboard to set the headlights on (250 is not hot enough to burn the cardboard, just take the cardboard in and out with the headlight *as a precaution*)

After the oven was preheated, I put the headlight assembly into the oven for 15 minutes. Make sure to have some gloves on when you remove the headlight as it is pretty hot to the touch. I used a medium sized flat head screw driver to pry the two halves apart. (my first one took over an hour, the second took maybe 10 mins to pry apart) I recommend prying the "corners" and 1/2 way between each corner. This is how I did the second and it worked really well. If the headlight starts getting hard to pry, pop it back in the oven for 3-5 mins to reheat and soften the glue. 1 (1) locations.jpg v

My mistake on the first one was not inserting the screw driver deep enough into the glue channel. Do not be afraid of messing up the headlight backing, as a little TLC with a heat gun will have it looking good as new in no time. By messing up the housing I mean deforming it when prying the halves apart, not sure if its even possible to do without damaging it at least a bit. 1 (5) location.jpg

Step 5 : Since I have not got my kit from TRS yet, I started working on some of the *cosmetics* I painted the internal trim pieces first.

I used Krylon Fusion satin black, sprays really well and one of the better paints for plastic IMO. 1 (4).JPG

I used a microfiber cloth to remove any fingerprints/ etc on the trim pieces prior to painting. I sprayed 2 light coats and 2-3 heavy coats for finish. With spray paint, distance from object, and speed of passes is a huge factor in how it will turn out. 1.2 (2).JPG 1.2.1.JPG

Step 6: Tinting side markers. I taped off the outer edges of the side markers, just to leave some color in the headlight. Same thing as with the trim pieces, 2 light coats and 2-3 regular coats with lens tint. photo 1.JPG photo 2.JPG

They turned out pretty well, but I wanted to blend the distinct lines a bit. I did this by wetsanding *2000 grit* sandpaper, then using a cutting compound, and a polish to finish it off. 1.2.7.JPG

Here are some after shots, much happier with the look. 1.2 (1).JPG 1.2.4.JPG 1.2.5.JPG

This is where I am at for now, waiting on my kit from TRS. Will update when I can.

02/28/14

I got my notification that my TRS order shipped out today, so I decided to get my final prepping done.

Step 7: Removing the reflector bowl from the headlight back.

There are 3 ball and socket style fasteners that hold the reflector bowl to the headlight back. I personally feel it is probably possible to do this mod without removing the reflector bowl, but I wanted to take it out to make painting the bowls easier.

Two of the three fasteners are held onto the reflector bowl with torx style screws. The other fastener slides into a slot on the back of the reflector bowl. (where the headlight adjustment is attached to)
photo 4.JPG

I suggest removing the 3 fasteners from the reflector bowl. (two are easily accessible, one is not). Once the screws are removed the sockets will pull away from the reflector bowl leaving you with the slot mounted fastener. Start with the most accessible torx screw.
photo 2.JPG

To remove the not so easily accessible torx screw, I drilled a hole in the back of the headlight housing. here:
2.0.JPG

Now with both torx screws removed slide the bowl away from the housing, you will see how the *slide in style* socket is seated on the reflector bowl, be careful not to break this. Simply slide it out of its slot in the reflector bowl.

Step 8:

Now I reinstalled the socket style mounting tabs to the reflector bowl. Getting them off of the "ball posts" is not the easiest task. There are two tabs that hold the socket to the ball, I found a small flat head screw driver used to pry one of the tabs away from the ball, will let you pop the socket off (some force required). These are the holding tabs:
photo 1.JPG

Now that all the sockets are separated from their posts, reinstall them on the reflector bowl, be sure they are in the proper position so they line up with their respective posts when you go to reinstall the reflector bowl in the headlight housing.

Step 9: Filling the hole drilled in the headlight housing. I used a piece of packaging tape over the hole on the inside of the headlight, so the JB weld would actually fill the hole instead of just running into the headlight *took pics after I filled with epoxy*:
2.3.JPG

Then I filled the hole from the backside with JB weld.
2.1.JPG

Step 10: Prepping the reflector bowl. Now here is were I was a bit bummed out. I purchased the d2s projectors because of the "ease of installation" the shank of the projector was suppose to fit through the existing hole, and use the alignment plate to perfectly align the projectors in the bowl.

Well the shank on the d2s is too big to fit though the existing hole with its alignment tabs (circled in red below) these need dremel'ed out. The screw hole where the halogen bulb cover was mounted (also circled in red below) needs drilled out so the cut off solenoid wires and halo wires can be ran though.
3.JPG

While dremeling the alignment tabs out, the hole also needs widened a bit on the reflector side of the bowl to allow the projector to seat in the bowl nicely. If you happen to dremel too much and wear through the housing like I did (circled in red) do not panic, nothing a little JB Weld can handle. 3.14.JPG

I have reached my pic limit for a single post, the remainder of this thread will be on page 2.
 

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Looks badass so far!!
 
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Updated with some more how to of my preparation.

TRS said they shipped my kit out today. Hoping to have this finished by next weekend.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks for posting the detailed information, I plan on doing some retrofits soon. Its good to learn from others that have tried it! Still have a couple projects to finish before picking out my retrofit parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for posting the detailed information, I plan on doing some retrofits soon. Its good to learn from others that have tried it! Still have a couple projects to finish before picking out my retrofit parts.
No prob, if you have any questions, hopefully I can help if you need it. I should have a pretty good grasp on the process after I finish up.

I am planning to do a fog light retrofit next. So I can color match to the headlights.
 

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Oh my word!!! Those are freakin sweet dude!


KCCO!
 
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Can you still aim the light after it is installed?
 

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Where do you order the lights and ballast needed? I like your look. Stock running light with tinted ambers need those to be legal where I am. And they just look bad ass. I got a line on a spare set of heads locally.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Can you still aim the light after it is installed?
Where do you order the lights and ballast needed? I like your look. Stock running light with tinted ambers need those to be legal where I am. And they just look bad ass. I got a line on a spare set of heads locally.
All major components were purchased from The Retrofit Source.

As far as aiming, I actually ended up using JB Weld to mount the projectors, just have to make sure they are aligned horizontally. These headlights have a lot of vertical adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
This is the backside of the reflector bowl, where I had to patch up some thin spots with epoxy.
3.13.JPG

Step 11: Rough fitting everything. I used the large hex nut included with the d2s kit to rough mount the projector in the bowl. I mounted the projector so I could dremel the shroud to fit the contours of the reflector bowl. This is a very tedious task, pop the shroud on the projector, trim where it hits the bowl, refit, retrim... so on so forth. Once the shroud is fitted its time to paint the bowl and shroud to your liking.

Step 12: This is when I mounted my vent mounted halo to the acrylic ring included with the panorama shrouds. To do this i used some steel floral wire, purchased at walmart.
3.1.JPG

I drilled a series of small holes around the ring, and used the wire to attach the halo to the ring.
3.2.JPG

Then mounted the ring with the floral wire.
3.11.JPG

Mounting it this way, was recommended by TRS in one of their how to vids. It does work real well, and is practically invisible once everything is back together.
3.10.JPG

Step 13: Alignment of projectors. Insert the reflector bowl back into the headlight housing, so you can mount it on your truck for adjustment. After doing some online searching, I decided to just epoxy the projectors to the bowl. I used some JB stick weld, wrapped it around the shank of the projector and pressed it into the reflector bowl. To align the projectors properly, the distance between the cutoff's at 25 feet should be the same as the distance between the headlights mounted on the truck. The rough height should be just below the mirrors of a passenger vehicle at 25 feet. The vertical adjustment is not super critical, but the horizontal is crucial. I was a small amount off with my alignment, hard to tell without trying to see it (but trust me its there).
3.3.JPG

Step 14: Mount the shrouds, for this I used JB stick weld again, per some internet research.

3.5.JPG

Step 15: Run wires out of the headlight. I drilled a hole in the back of the housing, ran the cutoff solenoid wires, and the halo wires out of the hole, and sealed the hole with stick weld. I also reinstalled the rubber boot that seals the reflector bowl and the back of the headlight housing.
3.7.JPG

Step 16: Time to reassemble the headlight. I mounted the headlight bezel to the lens using the original torx screws.

3.4.JPG

Packed the lens channel, on the headlight backing with the butyl sealant from TRS. Dont be afraid to use too much, it can be trimmed off later, and they send you more than is needed to do both headlights. Then do a rough fitment of the lens to the headlight backing, at this time I reinstalled the screw, which holds the headlight backing to the bezel. Pop them in the oven per instructions given from TRS. When the light came out I used vice grips to clamp around the edges of the headlight until the butyl set up.
3.6.JPG

After the headlights cooled I ran a bead of silicon around the seam where the lens meets the headlight back.


After mounting the ballasts and wiring harness, remount the headlights, do some final vertical adjustments and you are good to go.
Pay close attention to the height of your adjustment, I was blinding everyone until I brought them down a bit.

Final product:
4.2.JPG
4.JPG
4.1.JPG


One last bit of advice, I was having a bit of condensation in the housing, I have not 100% verified, but I believe it was was from where the rubber boot met up with the bulb mounting hardware, did not make the best seal. Again went with some silicon around this, and a little bit of butyl, between the bulb base and the bulb mounting ring. I think this should take care of the condensation issue. Wont know for certain until I run it through the carwash, or a rain storm, but my truck sat in the rain all day, without any condensation, so I think this is a good sign.
 

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Looks great! Your patience really worked out nicely
 
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I agree. I can get over how nice them look. I'm not brave or patient enough to try this I don't think


KCCO!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Looks great! Your patience really worked out nicely
I agree. I can get over how nice them look. I'm not brave or patient enough to try this I don't think


KCCO!

Thanks for the kind words!

You could do what I did, wait until you find a good deal on an extra set of headlights. This way I was able to take my time, and do it "right" even though in retrospect there are a few things I would have done differently, but the end result still meets my approval.

Next on to the fog lights...
 

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Thanks for the kind words!

You could do what I did, wait until you find a good deal on an extra set of headlights. This way I was able to take my time, and do it "right" even though in retrospect there are a few things I would have done differently, but the end result still meets my approval.

Next on to the fog lights...
What do you think was your overall cost? I am weighing out getting them done professionally vs me giving it a shot?
 
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