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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well twice this winter my battery has just died out and won't start. Verified my alternator is putting out 14.35V so it's def charging. Battery won't maintain more than 11.5V and any small draw on it seems to kill it fast.

I was waiting for my wife and kid in a parking lot and forgot to turn the lights off while I was sitting there with the truck shut off I turned them off after a few. I also had a 75w inverter charging my phone and was listening to the radio. Within 10 minutes the lights started flickering on/off in the cab and then by the time they got out there the prick wouldn't even crank a touch.

Think there's a dead cell in the battery.

That was the second battery in this truck replaced back in late 2014 I think. 9 year warranty walmart ever maxx. But for the life of me can't find the receipt. So 5+ years on it.

It lasted far longer than the stock Ford battery anyhow.

By the way after the original Ford battery died I unplugged the BMS ring sensor on the NEG cable. That **** is stupid.

Time to find battery #3. I'll either go with the Evermaxx again or Energizer from Costco.
 

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Probably is a bad cell. I should consider myself lucky. I’m still on my factory 2013 battery.
You just jinxed yourself ?‍♂ LOL
 

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Second battery lasted five years? Not bad performance if you often sit with the engine off listen to the radio and charging a device. Small long term draws like that are killers for a starting battery.

WaMart will warranty the battery if it has a date sticker on it. WalMarts are every where, batteries from Johnson Controls, USA, dido for an AGM.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll call them and see what they will do before I go ahead and drag it in there. It's got a 9/14 date sticker on it.
 

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I really think the Walmart Everstart Maxx line of batteries are underappreciated!

Especially when I got a 10% discount on them!

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I used North Star or X2 Power at batteries plus, AGM. All made in America. Very high CCA.

If you kill it draining like you did, you can charge it and it will work fine because AGM.
 

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I consider 5 years the general life of a decent battery.

FYI, Diehard, Everlast, Motorcraft, Interstate and many, many others all come from the same manufacturer. Just get something that has the cca's and doesn't break the bank.
 

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I used North Star or X2 Power at batteries plus, AGM. All made in America. Very high CCA.

If you kill it draining like you did, you can charge it and it will work fine because AGM.
X2Powers are my choice as well, both for my POVs and for apparatus. However, any lead-acid chemistry (flooded, SLA, AGM, VRLA, etc.) doesn't like being deep discharged. AGMs will handle it better (their cycle life is typically specced at 80% depth-of-discharge, vs. 50% for flooded), but you still shouldn't routinely run them into the ground.

If you replace a flooded battery with an AGM, you should use Forscan to twiddle the appropriate bits to update the BMS. AGMs should be charged somewhat differently than a flooded cell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
X2Powers are my choice as well, both for my POVs and for apparatus. However, any lead-acid chemistry (flooded, SLA, AGM, VRLA, etc.) doesn't like being deep discharged. AGMs will handle it better (their cycle life is typically specced at 80% depth-of-discharge, vs. 50% for flooded), but you still shouldn't routinely run them into the ground.

If you replace a flooded battery with an AGM, you should use Forscan to twiddle the appropriate bits to update the BMS. AGMs should be charged somewhat differently than a flooded cell.
BMS is retarded and more than a few people have unhooked it and got their trucks back to being a normal truck lol.
 
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X2Powers are my choice as well, both for my POVs and for apparatus. However, any lead-acid chemistry (flooded, SLA, AGM, VRLA, etc.) doesn't like being deep discharged. AGMs will handle it better (their cycle life is typically specced at 80% depth-of-discharge, vs. 50% for flooded), but you still shouldn't routinely run them into the ground.

If you replace a flooded battery with an AGM, you should use Forscan to twiddle the appropriate bits to update the BMS. AGMs should be charged somewhat differently than a flooded cell.
The BMS resets it self after 8 hrs of being shut off. It says it in the owners manual.
BMS is retarded and more than a few people have unhooked it and got their trucks back to being a normal truck lol.
I for whatever reason have never had a problem with mine. ALT is always charging while driving.
 

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BMS is retarded and more than a few people have unhooked it and got their trucks back to being a normal truck lol.
Yep. I've got a second battery (X2Power Group 31) for technical power which is automatically combined/isolated... so the BMS is useless for me.
 

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The BMS resets it self after 8 hrs of being shut off. It says it in the owners manual.
There's been discussion over on the other forum with a guy who actually works in whatever portion of Ford designs the electrical systems. He's provided me quite a lot of information that no one else could answer, so I don't doubt his truthfulness. He's said repeatedly that the BMS does reset the state of charge data after 8 hours, but it doesn't reset the battery aging part. It won't hurt anything to not do the full reset, but it also won't use the full capacity of the battery either.
 

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There's been discussion over on the other forum with a guy who actually works in whatever portion of Ford designs the electrical systems. He's provided me quite a lot of information that no one else could answer, so I don't doubt his truthfulness. He's said repeatedly that the BMS does reset the state of charge data after 8 hours, but it doesn't reset the battery aging part. It won't hurt anything to not do the full reset, but it also won't use the full capacity of the battery either.
I've read some about this.

Also, from what I think I understand, to reset that to a "new" battery requires having IDS to do it.

Is that so? Is there no other way? KAM reset, Forscan work, etc? I believe I'm reaching the end of my battery life. The truck still starts fine, but A.S.S. never shuts off any more and states vehicle charging as the reason, and the truck does not let me run the radio or anything long at all after shutting the truck off any more. Shuts down to save system power.

I've disconnected the BMS sensor for the time being to allow me a little more radio time if/when I want.

But when I spend a hundo on another battery, I want to do it properly and reset whatever I need to. It sounds crazy to me to HAVE to go to a dealer just to put in a fresh battery. I'd prefer not to continue with the sensor unplugged when I have a new battery. I rather like the idea of the truck shutting off accessory power to prevent over discharging with the engine off.

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I'm sure there are zillions of F150s (and other BMS-equipped vehicles) out there that have had a battery swapped and were never touched by a dealer, IDS, etc. It does, obviously, work. But, everything I've read from people with more knowledge than I suggests that doing the BMS reset via OBD is the best possible answer (plus setting the battery type to most closely match what you install). This can be done via Forscan as well.
 

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Your last point was what I was getting at. I'd like to take the best course of action, to possibly get the best life from my hundred bucks or so.

So far I'm very happy with my OEM battery on the '16!

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If you're going after a top-tier, US-made AGM, expect it to be well more than a hundo. You're looking in the $220 range for a Duracell AGM and almost $300 for an X2Power. But, they have 4-5 year warranties.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you're going after a top-tier, US-made AGM, expect it to be well more than a hundo. You're looking in the $220 range for a Duracell AGM and almost $300 for an X2Power. But, they have 4-5 year warranties.
If I had a winch and a bunch of Bro lights I'd go AGM. But I don't.
 
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