Saw these in my email newsletter from Full Race
Do it. You won’t regret it. Trust me. Just the sound that comes from them is worth it.Still can't buy them though!!! I bet demand is through the roof, even at that price.
I'm so on the fence on whether I retain the BD manis & stock turbos and just get this project done, or I pony up around $4k for these manis and some Garret PowerMax turbos...
My truck (not me!) is having an identity crisis, and I blame .NET!
I'm not making it a rocket but I think I want to keep it for another 100k miles.
Even with big turbos I don't expect I'd be any faster than a Gen 2 with a mild tune.
Rather, I'm thinking getting a bit more power with a bit less boost and heat will help, and a bit more fun is always welcome.
But as usual, I digress...
I think thats the only thing keeping this from being a no-brainer for me.I am still slightly irritated that they went through all this effort to design these and didnt put a bolt at the top of the rear port.
Exactly. Regardless of what metal they use, its softening as it gets hotter. I dont believe that 347SS is any stronger than 316SS or carbon steel at 1500F, but I could be wrong. They may not warp but the sagging is what scares me.As I said in another thread, they may hold up for a few trips down the strip. But I’m not sure how well they will hold up to constant towing. EGTs will be much higher for a longer period of time.
We shall see.
Yeah the turbos move too. That’s a great idea though, however don’t think it would work. Just need a better way to mount the turbos. The 2.7 doesn’t have any problems like that because of its integrated manifolds in the cylinder head. Turbo bolts solidly right to the head. They should design the 3.5 like that too.If it really is Turbo weight.....
And it reminds me of how braces on our teeth work...... Not necessarily a strong force, but rather one that is ceaseless and eventually wins the tugowar match.
So in that context, if someone was to design a support that is attached to the structure of the truck and then a mechanism for that support to "pull", if from above, and "hold" if from below.
Imagine a less cluttered engine bay with a shock tower brace. Then attach a strap from the Turbos to the shock tower brace.
Problem is, don't the Turbos move with the block as it twists under torque?
Then the brace would have to be attached to the engine and move with it?
Just spitballing.
If it were feasible, I'm guessing someone would have already mocked up an attempt.
I hope they work, I really do. I just don't wanna spend my $1000 and time installing them to find out. So for that I thank youI'm looking forward to trying them. As mentioned before, I get the apprehension given the "missing" mount point. However, these are designed completely different than any other offering. With the runner design, there just isn't any way to get that mount point in there and it keeps heat away from the flange. SS will dissipate the heat better than Carbon Steel as well.
I'll be towing long distance with them, so they will be put to the test. It didn't take me very long to warp the CRP's, that's for sure.
2017+ Garrett stage 2's? What do you do with the hot side, I thought the turbine was bigger than stock.Just an FYI. Talked with @full-race geoff and these manifolds are in stock now. I hope to have a set along with Garret Stage 2's shipping out shortly! I'm very excited!
Thank you for the vote of confidence. Full Race has never and will never use cast iron for any turbocharged gas engine. When I saw what people were putting on their trucks the last couple years it gave me heartburn knowing you would fail and be in the same predicament. but I never like to air dirty laundry in public and try not to talk negatively in a public forumDon't have a Gen1 with a warped exhaust manifold. But if I did it'd be difficult to not pony up for a set.
correct assumption. reliability during extreme use (like towing) was our #1 target. EGT was 2nd and fitting bigger performance turbos was 3rd.So do you think the target customer for these Full Race manifolds are tuned heavy towing (relative) Gen1 F150's? … Still, if I had to bet, I think there's considerable overlap in what would make a robust manifold and what would make a Full Race approved manifold. They don't weld that tag on anything lightly, in my opinion.
I agree, Friends dont let friends use cast iron on turbo gas engines! The decision most people should looking at are the new OEM V2 stainless manifolds or the formline stainless manifolds. The OEM manifold turbine outlet is still undersized and the runners are restrictive, the flanges are still thin, but its the best option for low cost. And if i were in your position after being burned by cast iron 3x id probably be a bit gun shy to try anything aftermarketYou can get these and test em, and ill test the new OEM ones, and we can compare notes.![]()
stainless steel is massively stronger at temp and in a corrosive environment like gasoline engine exhaust there's no comparison.The CRP's are burly, and better steel, but they still pull away from the head in that same spot without popping the studs, at least not in my case. I allegedly "warped" 3 CRP's and my studs were all there. Stainless steel is not actually stronger.
I apologize if you did not get a prompt response while we were away at PRI that week. We brought the entire team out to Indianapolis and the office only had 1 guy answering phones. that was a mistake. The whole team regrets that customers didnt get the attention that they deserve that week. It won’t happen again, some of our guys are staying behind next year. thank you for your patience!.I’ll probably end up getting the full race manifolds once they come out, although they haven’t shipped my turbo adapters yet and it’s been 10 days since I ordered them lol and they haven’t responded to my email inquiry I sent about it a couple days ago, hopefully they are just busy or something… They just emailed me back and said that they ran out of hardware for them so might be a little bit to get it back in stock.
my pleasure. happy to answer any other questions you haveThanks for chiming in on the thread Geoff, much appreciated!
My understand from doing work in fire protection of stainless and carbon steel assets in oil refineries and chemical plants, that stainless steels yield strength was no better than carbon steels(lower at low temperatures), and in fact the structural failure points for stainless steel assets are generally at a lower temperature during a fire. Our fire testing temperatures are 2000-2350F.stainless steel is massively stronger at temp and in a corrosive environment like gasoline engine exhaust there's no comparison.
Respectfully, I believe CRP is not a superior material to OEM... hence your experience. Sand-cast iron (CRP) and the other slightly better option of sand-cast Hi-Sil-Mol (BD Diesel). Neither material is suitable for a turbocharged gasoline truck application. Every modern performance gasoline engine has a stainless turbine housing and manifold for this reason. Garrett stopped using cast iron housings on all their performance turbos in 2008 for this exact warping/cracking concern. Garrett switched to ni-resist for cheaper turbos and 347 stainless for the high end g series
love it - never ever stop learning. and for the record, gen2 is soo much easier than gen1At my age it's STILL amazing to discover that I don't know what I don't know.So glad I was born late enough to at least get to witness the information age, if you know what I mean. Forums are invaluable regarding.
thank you, will do the guys will be pumpedPM me a mailing address and count of the number of guys on the team in the office. I'll send each one of the team one of our F150Ecoboost.net decals - except that guy you left behind to answer the phones. He will get one regular and one of the retired 10th Anniversary decals! He earned it!
Im not here to argue with you but there's no 9" gap.Warping and cracking, for sure I can see it being better. But maybe im missing something. And to be clear, I am not arguing that the manifolds should be carbon steel. I am fully on board with the stainless options. I am running the stainless OEM manifolds on my truck right now instead of CRP's or BD's. My concern stems from the 9" gap between the two rear most upper studs. My CRP's pulled away from the rear most port without breaking studs
Those look like they’re bolted to gen1 manifolds too. Any more details?Some pics of the Stage 2’s bolted to the form line manifolds.
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From what I was told the manifolds ARE a kit which include gaskets, studs, and nuts; not 100% which gaskets and hardware are included though.@full-race geoff - The pics on your web page shows all the mounting hardware and gaskets. Does this come as a kit with new manifolds?
Also, what is the difference in choosing WITH or WITHOUT the GARRETT POWERMAX TURBOS?
I ask because I may just buy these now and wait until later to get turbos and do everythign at once but spread the cost out strating now.
Thanks for all you input!!
So those are gen 1 turbine housings on gen 2 center's and compressor housings?
Feel free to tease and poke fun at my terrible video skills.
I ordered the wrong size silicone couplers, so gotta get that sorted and then I can install.
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whoa!!!! wait.....so a Gen 1 truck can run the Stage 2 Garret turbos if you install the formline manifolds?and for the record, its not possible to fit the stage2 garretts on any 11-16 manifold except formline
and for the record, its not possible to fit the stage2 garretts on any 11-16 manifold except formline
Not quite that simple, I have the only known modified Stage 2 set to pull this off at this time.whoa!!!! wait.....so a Gen 1 truck can run the Stage 2 Garret turbos if you install the formline manifolds?