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Time to put new brakes pads on my '14 F 150. It is a supercab 4wd, I tow heavy often and have excellent trailer brakes on everything. If I go to replace the rotors are the sloted rotors worth it for stopping power or long life?
Anything recommended for long wear pads vs Motorcraft or Napa brakepads?
 

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When it is time to do mine I will put drilled and slotted all the way around. Some may argue it does nothing, other than the look...others will agree with my personal preference that it helps keep them cooler and prevents warping.

As far as brands, that is another preference topic. I have used a slew of different and had good results. On my other truck I put PowerStop drilled and slotted rotors with some Duralast (Autozone) ceramic pads. It is still holding strong and this is three years ago now.

why did I not stick with the PS brand pads? They were noisy....the Duralast pads did very well.

For me? Drilled and slotted for sure. I am certain others will have different views and that is okay.

I also tow a lot, so I get where you are coming from!
 

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I did the powerstop z36 kit that has the pads and rotors. They are drilled slotted but that wasnt really why I bought them. More just because they had been reviewed well.

They do seem to have some more initial bite than stock.
 

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It is generally accepted the superduty Motorcraft pads and rotors give the best service. Rockauto
 
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I got the PS Z36 front and rear package back in 2017 and they are still going strong and no warped front rotors like the OEM ones did after only a couple of years.. I tow as well.

They do squeak a bit on cold mornings... But, only until you can apply them once.. No big deal. No brake dust either.

I can't compare to other brands on this rig, as it's all I've had other than the OEM when I bought the truck brand new.

Some pics just 'cause I have them... :)




Good luck! Mitch
 
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I still have stock pads and rotors on at 85000 miles. I tow heavy alot. I have TBC set on 7. Not sure if that is alot but feels about right and camper brakes don't lock up that I have ever noticed. I have always been easy on vehicle brakes tho. I was taught early in life to let off gas early and coast then gas progressively when approaching the middle of a curve. Let off gas early before stopping. I think it also comes from always having standard shifting vehicles and shifting down while coasting instead of getting on the brakes early or too late.
 
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Ark you and I drive about the same it seems, especially while towing.
 
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Maybe so, @TangoMike415 . Also, if you know how to road race, you know alot about conserving brakes. I was road racing, somewhat illegally, a long time ago while doing a 3 year tour of Germany. Lots of fun. Little bitty barely 2 lane wide countryside roads in a POS Opel GT.
 

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Oh, I had plenty of pad left on the OEM's.. Changed them at 54k miles. I'm easy on brakes too and never came close to 'smoking' them.. I see rigs going down the grades with their brakes lights on the whole way down! They might be only lightly pressing on the brake pedal, but the heat being generated just keeps getting hotter and hotter..

I like to gear down and let the rig do what it's going to do and then hit the brakes and slow down at least 10 mph and then let off and let it coast until I need to do it again.

This gives the brakes time to cool between applications and has served me well over the decades. :)

I'll also just hit the manual BC to only activate the trailer brakes from time to time if it's a long grade.. One, to just check that they are working as expected and just to it because I can.

Since I just rolled over 100k miles on the F150 on the first camping trip for 2021, I'm okay. :)

Mitch
 

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Maybe so, @TangoMike415 . Also, if you know how to road race, you know alot about conserving brakes. I was road racing, somewhat illegally, a long time ago while doing a 3 year tour of Germany. Lots of fun. Little bitty barely 2 lane wide countryside roads in a POS Opel GT.
Absolutely familiar and :ROFLMAO: had an Opel with a TT 4.3 in it...it would not stay on the road let alone the track. Silly idea.
 
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Wow. LOL Mine had a 1.9, naturally aspirated '72 model. About 100 HP. 1800 pounds but still too heavy for such a small car. Made turns like on rails tho. To stay on topic, brakes weren't too bad.
 

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Yes, we went a bit overboard with it. Just could not get it to connect and stay connected once it spooled up, even with track bars. Brakes were decent, hahaha (on topic.)
 
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The Z36 kit has done me well. I didn't like the amount of brake dust the stockers made and it was corrosive to my wheels. Ruined 2 sets of wheels on the front. No issues with the Powerstops
 

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My oem pads made it to 82k. i think the only reason I changed them was because the front inner pads wore a lot faster than the outers. If i remember right the rears still had some life left, and if the fronts had worn even i would have made it past 100k i bet.

The oe rotors “warped” around 15-20k i think but then they just stopped one day and were fine until i put the powerstops on.
 

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I haven't noticed any brake dust accumulating on the wheels at all. OEM.
 

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I’ve had very good results with PowerStop products. No noise, excellent stopping power and good pad life. I have had them on ‘07 Tacoma front,’09 Hyundai, a Nissan family hauler and my ‘14 F150. There maybe better but the PowerStops have given consistently great results so I don’t have any reason to look at other products.
 
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@Arkansas Eco come on now...you are killing me with your stories! :LOL: :ROFLMAO:

@miniceptor86 Same here. No problems, have even bought them from Amazon and Ebay at decent prices too!
 
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I swear ! and I never wash the lil grey pickup.
 

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All of our fleet Ford and Dodge vehicles use OEM brake components and my goodness the brake dust is ridiculous. A constant battle to keep wheels looking halfway decent. Wash at beginning of shift and by halfway point, can already see it starting to get nasty again. Sigh.

Ceramic pads...worth a shot!
 

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I'll take a photo of mine tomorrow. No dust.
 
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