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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Woo-Boost's Oil Information and Build Thread

I changed my oil yesterday along with the transfer case, rear end and installed Wagner intercooler.

For the oil, I am 0-2 with the Fumoto valve. The first time it was not threading into the hole, found out they sent me the wrong valve after checking serial number. This time around I thought I had the vavle with me, went to change oil and could not find it. Thought I left it at work, not there either. Not sure where it is!

I also forgot the oil comes out of the pan like a rocket on these truck. Ended up covering my arm in oil since i didn't have the pan back far enough. :eek:
The used oil will be sent off to be analyzed. I took sample mid stream from pan. I will update this post and thread when I get results.

For this oil change I also purchased the Amsoil oil filter wrench. These fit on end of filter and you use a 3/8 wrench in the end. This is WAY easier than using a traditional filter wrench than wraps around can and you pull handle. Would recommend everyone purchasing this.


The transfer case, I pulled out my hand pump for. Unfortunately the fluid you use (Amsoil ATF for our transfer cases) is too thin and it did not pump well. I thought I was really screwed at this point having an empty transfer case and no way to get to parts store. I managed to find a mini filter in garage, rig it with a mini hose and thankfully being a truck, there was just enough room to dump the oil directly from the Quart jug into the mini filter. :cool:

The rear axle I put a Mag-Hytec cover on with 5 quartz of Amsoil. The factory diff cover had the most RTV gasket from the factory on anything I have ever seen. Ford went nuts with it. The cover is very nice, reusable O ring built in (if you ever take off, you don't need RTV), 2 magnets built in (the drain plug and dipstick) and uses ARP bolts. The only issue with those bolts is it is a damn hex head. I managed (again) to somehow dig up a step down for my 3/8 torque wrench to a 1/4 and use a socket that accepted a hex head. I did not remove the driver side factory fill nut. Mag-Hytec instruction state to fill fluid between lines on dipstick and that matches the factory fill location. You do not want to go over this. For those who reuse stock cover, you check level by fluid weeping out of fill hole.

While doing this job, I also decided to drop spare to give me more room. You must have the factory lug wrench to do this. I actually had to read the owners manual to figure it out.....:eek:

Note-TA performance cover has built in support. They also make the Ford Racing 8.8 covers. You might want to go this route if you are running big power and slicks.

Finally the intercooler. This is the best packaged item I have ever received. Pretty sure you could throw it off a cliff and not damage the intercoooler inside. I had the stock intercooler out in 10 minutes, very easy. Upon putting the Wagner in, I mounted the lower bracket to the studs the air dam mounts to. Took me a while to figure my error there after the piping would not reach. You WILL NEED A HELPER to put this thing in. It is a damn tank. I wonder if lead or cast iron is in that thing because it is heavy as hell laying on your back trying to put it in place. I would also like to note, there is a TON of metal shavings in the holes of it when you pull off the rubber cap. I spent 5 mins blowing each of them out best i could with compressed air. I hope no left overs get sucked into engine. I was really disappointed in that part.

I also looked at my stock intercooler. Have had a RX can since 1000 miles. There was zero trace of any fluid in stock intercooler and it was completely dry.

Finally the test drive. I started driving and built up boost to dump. Wanted to make sure the pipes held and the BOV held. It was making a weird noise, not the typical noise. I thought either the BOV was not mounted/leaking or a pipe had come off. I pulled over and checked the piping....all good, then I noticed I had not connected the electrical connection back to the BOV. I hooked it up and it is working fine. If this was not connected, the boost must have went back through the turbos? :confused: Make sure you plug that in.

Next up, line x, exhaust and checking stock plugs and regapping them.


EDIT-see post #9 for oil analysis and relating data.
Update two - See post #34
 

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Thanks for the info, sounds like quite the productive day.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Quick follow up.

Found the Fumoto valve! Next oil change it will be on.

I drain catch can every Saturday. First time since adding the Wagner intercooler. It is now in the 60s/70s as well. I got a little bit of fluid, far less than normal and it appeared to be just water. Do not know if this is from Wager, warmer weather or combination of both. Will see what this Saturday holds.

Oil is still be analyzed, no update.

No leaks from the Mag-Hytec. Great cover. Need to pull the dipstick magnet and see if anything is on there already.
 

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Glad to see you finally found your Fumoto Valve.

I too had nothing in my stock intercooler when I changed mine the day after yourself. I too had installed a catch can early on.

I have been monitoring my IAT2 temps and it's amazing how much cooler it runs, even in WOT. And, how quickly it will cool down now, even if I stopped for about 10 minutes and the restart.
 

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Sounds good boys, if I knew wha' y'all were talking about. IAT2? Something is cooler since ye installed a catch can? A catch can made something run cooler? BOV? Oh me boys, it hurts getting into geezerhood. I've pulled engines, done a bit of shade tree work in my day, but I'm talking about flat head sixes and one flat head V8. A few overhead valve inline sixes, etc. Reckon I could look all this stuff up, me old haid is spinnin' I tell ye.
 

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Sounds good boys, if I knew wha' y'all were talking about. IAT2? Something is cooler since ye installed a catch can? A catch can made something run cooler? BOV? Oh me boys, it hurts getting into geezerhood. I've pulled engines, done a bit of shade tree work in my day, but I'm talking about flat head sixes and one flat head V8. A few overhead valve inline sixes, etc. Reckon I could look all this stuff up, me old haid is spinnin' I tell ye.
IAT2 is the temperature of the air after it has passed through the inter-cooler (CAC) the stock cooler's are partially defeated to help defeat condensation issues, After installing aftermarket coolers everyone sees better (lower IAT2's) as the aftermarket coolers are more efficient. SOme people have collected less in their catch cans after adding an aftermarket cooler as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
My s#!t is about to blow up!!

Here it is gentlemen. They did not show any of my comments or make direct remarks to my comments that I filled in on paper work, I am not sure why?

This is first oil change from factory fill. Change was done @ 800 miles on factory fill on 10/4/2014 and ran till 4/2/2015 @ approximately 3300 miles. This is 2500 miles total and 180 days exactly. Oil life monitor was set to 100% and when I changed it on 4/2 it read 33%. I have under 5 miles trip(s) (short commute, 2-4 times a day depending on day of week), higher idle times (to let warm up a bit in winter) and drive very lightly on gas, letting shifts occur by 2k.

If you read my post, I also run RX catch can. Drainage smells severely of gas always, however oil dip stick remained within hatch marks.

I am only concerned with the fuel level and Silicon level. The other metal wears is due to the engine being new and still getting break in done, IMO. Does this break in period apply to the silicon levels too or is this due to K & N filter? We shall see on next analysis. If it continues to be a worry, I will put factory air filter back in, which I have sitting here in a box and see if it fixes the problem.

I am not sure what their last sentence means, "Please provide missing FLUID PRODUCT NAME to compare data to the correct standards" ? EDIT - This is the product code for Amsoil, the 5-30 in my case is ASL I believe.

Will take recommendation to change fluid earlier. I will change when computer reads 50% and send for sampling again or when I reach 1500 miles on this change.

What's everyone thoughts?



View attachment Oil Analysis 1.pdf
 

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I would show that to the dealership and have the fuel in oil TSB done. I believe it involves replacing the HPFP O ring.

Also the short commutes can cause high fuel content. I would go for a long drive and then maybe resample.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would show that to the dealership and have the fuel in oil TSB done. I believe it involves replacing the HPFP O ring.

Also the short commutes can cause high fuel content. I would go for a long drive and then maybe resample.
Yes, although there have been issues with this. The TSB for rising oil due to fuel is adding a heater plug in, which requires pulling turbo yet the dealer will not replace the O ring on HPFP. I will see what happens on next analysis first. I would have guessed with a leaking o ring, there would have been rising oil levels. Right now I am leaning toward fuel levels being due to the idle/short commute.

Now that summer is approaching, I will be driving more to various events. Will see if that helps.

Why doesn't MFT show up with a "warning, danger to manifold" like in fast and furious if my fuel level is so high? That is the real question.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Also the comments says "Fuel dilution caused viscosity to decrease MODERATELY" does not say severe there. I wish they would say what the viscosity is now at.
 

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Yes, although there have been issues with this. The TSB for rising oil due to fuel is adding a heater plug in, which requires pulling turbo yet the dealer will not replace the O ring on HPFP. I will see what happens on next analysis first. I would have guessed with a leaking o ring, there would have been rising oil levels. Right now I am leaning toward fuel levels being due to the idle/short commute. Now that summer is approaching, I will be driving more to various events. Will see if that helps. Why doesn't MFT show up with a "warning, danger to manifold" like in fast and furious if my fuel level is so high? That is the real question.
That is the old TSB. The heater is no longer replaced. Just the PCV and HPFP o ring.

And lol, need nos.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That is the old TSB. The heater is no longer replaced. Just the PCV and HPFP o ring.

And lol, need nos.

What is the new TSB so i can look it up? Would not need to mess with PCV since I have RX....
 

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What is the new TSB so i can look it up? Would not need to mess with PCV since I have RX....
15-0003

If you have access to what is done please post it. I remember seeing it someplace and the block heater was taken off of it, but it has been a while and couldn't find it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
15-0003

If you have access to what is done please post it. I remember seeing it someplace and the block heater was taken off of it, but it has been a while and couldn't find it.
i was just looking into this, cant find much information except that is is the newest number for the 14 one before. One guy said the reflash is specific for cold weather climates after this TSB is done? I wonder what that is all about, would explain performance loss.

I will post any information but I don't plan on going to dealer for this until next oil change as mentioned, which will be at end of summer probably. I will most likely ask the TSB for separator plate be done as well. I also need the recall done for my passenger seat. Will they give me a free rental car if I do end up going? I avoid the dealer like the plague, never been so I don't know how it works.
 

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Yes Amsoil 5w-30 is ASL. The only thing I see wrong is that the fuel is above 5% dilution. Silicon is dirt, most likely from the contaminates of the build. Break in should reduce the silicon as well as the metals numbers seen. No need to panic about the fuel dilution as the Viscosity is still up there, Wear Metals are low, the TBN is good, and the Oxidation and Nitration levels are still low. All signs that the oil is doing it's job, in spite of the fuel present. Fuel is only detrimental if it breaks the oil down, and the ASL clearly is holding up.

I recently got the same report of >5% fuel dilution in 2500 miles on the oil, (I don't make many short trips, and I don't idle a lot). Took the truck to the dealer, and asked them to check the injectors and the HPFP. (I had the TSB for fuel in oil done last year). They loaded the latest update for the ECM as per the latest update to the TSB. Refused to even look at the HPFP or injectors. I did not change my oil, and will resample again with the oil at 5k miles on it. AMSOIL is aware of the dilution issues in these engines, and tells me that they still guaranty the oil for 15K miles. If the oil causes a failure Amsoil will pay for repairs. http://www.amsoil.com//lit/g1363.pdf

I am going to keep testing on the same oil until the oil is no longer doing it's job. We will see exactly how far it can go with the dilution #s I am seeing. Also keep in mind that unless there is a mechanical issue such as injectors or HPFP, fuel dilution is NOT linear, meaning it doesn't occur at the same rate all the time. Just because it was 5% in 2500 miles over the winter doesn't mean it will be 5% over the summer. Different temps, idle times, driving habits, rpms, etc... all contribute to the issue. The report does not say to change the oil it says resample at half interval. You can update the Fluid Product Name and Filter micron rating at eoilreports.com The Filter Micron rating is 20.
 

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"Also the comments says "Fuel dilution caused viscosity to decrease MODERATELY" does not say severe there. I wish they would say what the viscosity is now at."


Look at the Fluid Properties on the report... Viscosity @100c = 8.6 TBN = 5.49. Still good numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
"Also the comments says "Fuel dilution caused viscosity to decrease MODERATELY" does not say severe there. I wish they would say what the viscosity is now at."


Look at the Fluid Properties on the report... Viscosity @100c = 8.6 TBN = 5.49. Still good numbers.
I meant an equivalency, like the oil is now equal to 5-20. I looked briefly into the Viscosity, I found 100c for cars and 40c for equipment is normal testing. I did not see what exactly 8.6 cSt means. I also do not know what your TBN base number 5.49 means. Do you have any articles that explains all this?


You're saying even with this fuel dilution, there is no worries here? If the oil loses too much viscosity, engine would eat bearings.
 
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