F150 Ecoboost Forum banner

421 - 440 of 447 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,644 Posts
Discussion Starter #421
There’s something about shiny new go-fast parts that just boost serotonin. Very jealous.
Unfortunately, I had nothing left to be excited about lol. Slowly warming up to it not though.

I got up at 530. left at 630 to arrive at 8. Started around 9. Had an hour break for tools run at another shop. Probably 30min-1hr taking little breaks. After test driving, topping fluids etc and hearing the grinding noise, trying to figure out why etc I didnt leave till around midnight, got back to my place around 2am. Unpack everything, went to bed around 4am.

Shout out to @Blown F-150 for being by his phone able to answer some questions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,644 Posts
Discussion Starter #422
Been driving a while, flooring it etc and trans temp is 140? kept going down while cruising too. What's going on here?

168654
 

·
Registered
2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 Ecobeast SuperCrew 4X4
Joined
·
1,646 Posts
I hope it's not like when lose all the coolant the temp sensor reads cooler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,644 Posts
Discussion Starter #424
I hope it's not like when lose all the coolant the temp sensor reads cooler.
Im just messing around man. With the new transmission the thermostat was completely removed, thus fluid always goes to the front cooler. Helps extend the life of the fluid and transmission!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
577 Posts
With the new transmission the thermostat was completely removed, thus fluid always goes to the front cooler. Helps extend the life of the fluid and transmission!
If there is benefit to removing the thermostat why is it there in the first place? For colder climates?

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,664 Posts
Im just messing around man. With the new transmission the thermostat was completely removed, thus fluid always goes to the front cooler. Helps extend the life of the fluid and transmission!
After watching the FordTechMackuloco video on servicing the 6R80 and his well explained "thermostat" removal-cleaning-installing procedure, I wondered about the options to alter or remove it.

So do we know what a good minimum operating temperature is? I love the idea, but would like to have some method to get it to a minimum, which I'm guessing could be accomplished with an external thermostat?



Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,644 Posts
Discussion Starter #428
If there is benefit to removing the thermostat why is it there in the first place? For colder climates?

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk
I think it is just for emissions/mpg. Get it hot and thin.
After watching the FordTechMackuloco video on servicing the 6R80 and his well explained "thermostat" removal-cleaning-installing procedure, I wondered about the options to alter or remove it.

So do we know what a good minimum operating temperature is? I love the idea, but would like to have some method to get it to a minimum, which I'm guessing could be accomplished with an external thermostat?

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
I don't know what a good minimum temp would be. I believe logic allows for converter lock at 105 degrees, so I dont see anything else holding it up.

The hottest I want to see is 170-180. SO far, the hottest I have saw is 170 and that was consistent unlocked driving and then idling. It drops very quickly when locked and/or cruising.

Over a year ago there was a guy on here that bought a new expedition. He put some companies 160 or 170 theromstat in the transmission and posted pictures on here. The issue is, you have to pull the entire valve body to get to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,350 Posts
I watched the 7.3L F250 that TFLTruck has get the transmission up to 240 climbing the Ike Gauntlet. Its using the new Mercon ULV though. I just dont think they are worried about it running hotter with these newer fluids, because there is no reason the super duty transmission should get any hotter than F150’s.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,644 Posts
Discussion Starter #430
I watched the 7.3L F250 that TFLTruck has get the transmission up to 240 climbing the Ike Gauntlet. Its using the new Mercon ULV though. I just dont think they are worried about it running hotter with these newer fluids, because there is no reason the super duty transmission should get any hotter than F150’s.
240 is going to significantly reduce transmission life.

Amsoil Blue cross references LV and ULV
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,644 Posts
Discussion Starter #431
60% pump FINALLY installed. The pliers idea worked. I purchased the ones below, made for fuel line bending and took a drill bit to open the hole to fit the HPFP line. It allowed to grip the line without damaging it and yank it to bend it. Dont let the install video on youtube fool you, the line is not close to lining up as shown in the video. It takes some force too to bend it.

The coil pack does come out after cutting it @Blown F-150. I thought it would still be a fight but there is a lot of room.

I upped the pressure for HPFP to 2800 psi and then 3200 psi today, it is meeting command. @Boostking will be making some further changes to take advantage of the pump and then ethonal testing will commence!

Finally, I have driven a few hundred miles on the fullrace catch can. I had to pull it off to install the pump obviously. If you crack the drain valve, nothing comes out due to it being flat. When I had it off, I tilted it towards the drain and got a little bit of brown fluid. Not a bunch of crap like the dual valve but this set it is allowing for much better crank pressure release and our PCV expert @SrpRacing has confirmed this.


168754

168755
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,250 Posts
60% pump FINALLY installed. The pliers idea worked. I purchased the ones below, made for fuel line bending and took a drill bit to open the hole to fit the HPFP line. It allowed to grip the line without damaging it and yank it to bend it. Dont let the install video on youtube fool you, the line is not close to lining up as shown in the video. It takes some force too to bend it.

The coil pack does come out after cutting it @Blown F-150. I thought it would still be a fight but there is a lot of room.

I upped the pressure for HPFP to 2800 psi and then 3200 psi today, it is meeting command. @Boostking will be making some further changes to take advantage of the pump and then ethonal testing will commence!

Finally, I have driven a few hundred miles on the fullrace catch can. I had to pull it off to install the pump obviously. If you crack the drain valve, nothing comes out due to it being flat. When I had it off, I tilted it towards the drain and got a little bit of brown fluid. Not a bunch of crap like the dual valve but this set it is allowing for much better crank pressure release and our PCV expert @SrpRacing has confirmed this.


View attachment 168754
View attachment 168755
Nice work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,644 Posts
Discussion Starter #433
With the new converter, if i just hit it off idle, it will glaze the tires through first. That is with boost control/limit too down low. If I stall it at all, even a tiny bit not building any boost, it will smoke them.

Hottest trans temp I am seeing beating on it is 170. Hottest I saw idling was 180.

Cruising in high 50 degree weather, it stays at 110. I may put some cardboard in front of cooler in really cold temps during winter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,935 Posts
Excellent with WooBoost!
Confirms my thoughts on replacing the OEM Thermal Coolant Bypass Valve.
I haven't gotten around to the transmission YET, but have the parts sitting in the garage.
A lot of garages are sort of put off on dropping the valve body? I don't get it....I know their are different sized hex bolts to remove?
BUT.... a drop in over 25° during operation is where it needs to be IMO when towing heavy in the 110°-118° AZ summers
I'm suprised you didn't go for an extra capacity trash pan?....or are you-lol
Again...JOB WELL DONE!
PS....I think you are definitely in this category
Screenshot_20200829-071042_Facebook.jpg
Screenshot_20200804-213211.jpg


Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,644 Posts
Discussion Starter #436
Excellent with WooBoost!
Confirms my thoughts on replacing the OEM Thermal Coolant Bypass Valve.
I haven't gotten around to the transmission YET, but have the parts sitting in the garage.
A lot of garages are sort of put off on dropping the valve body? I don't get it....I know their are different sized hex bolts to remove?
BUT.... a drop in over 25° during operation is where it needs to be IMO when towing heavy in the 110°-118° AZ summers
I'm suprised you didn't go for an extra capacity trash pan?....or are you-lol
Again...JOB WELL DONE!
PS....I think you are definitely in this category View attachment 168764

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
What kit did you get that replaces the valve? Maybe other people are interested in it.

No, stock pan. Maybe if towing a lot, the extra fluid would be good for you.

I also have the Saudi trans cooler....that is playing into my temps. Although with the internal t stat removed, I don't think you would need that upgrade. The converter company says you need extra cooling with converter, if you're stock you would be fine on stock cooler.

If you are going to do the install and pull your valve body, I would suggest you upgrade to the latest lead frame as well as well as the foam insert as I show above. The lead frame comes out with the valve body, so might as well do it while apart. It is only around 110 from Ford dealers online. ALso, if you watch the ford tech video, he says anytime the valvebody is pulled, you need to replace this little square thing because you need new o ring on it. I believe it is the passage to feed the pump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,644 Posts
Discussion Starter #438
.....appreciate the tips WooBoost.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
That part number on their website says full time cooler flow. That would be same thing I have, so you would be seeing temps like me. There are some other units that just allow the valve to open at 170 or so vs our stock 195.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,209 Posts
60% pump FINALLY installed. The pliers idea worked. I purchased the ones below, made for fuel line bending and took a drill bit to open the hole to fit the HPFP line. It allowed to grip the line without damaging it and yank it to bend it. Dont let the install video on youtube fool you, the line is not close to lining up as shown in the video. It takes some force too to bend it.

The coil pack does come out after cutting it @Blown F-150. I thought it would still be a fight but there is a lot of room.

I upped the pressure for HPFP to 2800 psi and then 3200 psi today, it is meeting command. @Boostking will be making some further changes to take advantage of the pump and then ethonal testing will commence!

Finally, I have driven a few hundred miles on the fullrace catch can. I had to pull it off to install the pump obviously. If you crack the drain valve, nothing comes out due to it being flat. When I had it off, I tilted it towards the drain and got a little bit of brown fluid. Not a bunch of crap like the dual valve but this set it is allowing for much better crank pressure release and our PCV expert @SrpRacing has confirmed this.


View attachment 168754
View attachment 168755
I just installed my XDI-35 this weekend, and I COMPLETELY agree with you regarding the line not matching up and requiring a lot more force than a simple bend. My thought, "It was a staged video" by XDI with a pre-bent line. I suspect it was already installed when they disconnected it to make the video. And I found the wrenches that cleared the line, were too long and close to the firewall. I eventually used a pair for of regular pliers with the line wrapped with cloth worked to bend the line.

Also, the video doesn't show how to get the blue locking clip off the Low Pressure Line. That one is tricky because you do not want to break that blue locking clip.

Also, the video doesn't show you to make sure the Roller is at the base circle of the HPFP cam. I found a quick "bump" of the starter with someone watching the roller worked best. Except with this truck, you must actually flick the starter back to off when trying to bump it, or the engine will try to start if you try to "bump the starter" and just release but not actually put the key back to OFF.

Finally, something the video doesn't show, is how to empty the fuel rails to minimize fuel weeping. I pulled Fuse #27 (Fuel Pump Relay) and just let the engine run the rail dry. You will get a code, the you must clear or you will not be able to reprogram the PCM (with my SCT Livewire) until the code is cleared.

But those are all the little "gotchas" I found you either must do or should do to make the install as easy as possible.

Also, make sure you torque the bolts to specs which can be hard to find (not in any videos). The link to XDI's Instructions for the F150 which had the torque specs, wasn't working properly. I had to actually email XDI for the instructions and torque specs. Which XDI did.
 
  • Like
Reactions: D0ncH and WooBoost

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,644 Posts
Discussion Starter #440
I just installed my XDI-35 this weekend, and I COMPLETELY agree with you regarding the line not matching up and requiring a lot more force than a simple bend. My thought, "It was a staged video" by XDI with a pre-bent line. I suspect it was already installed when they disconnected it to make the video. And I found the wrenches that cleared the line, were too long and close to the firewall. I eventually used a pair for of regular pliers with the line wrapped with cloth worked to bend the line.

Also, the video doesn't show how to get the blue locking clip off the Low Pressure Line. That one is tricky because you do not want to break that blue locking clip.

Also, the video doesn't show you to make sure the Roller is at the base circle of the HPFP cam. I found a quick "bump" of the starter with someone watching the roller worked best. Except with this truck, you must actually flick the starter back to off when trying to bump it, or the engine will try to start if you try to "bump the starter" and just release but not actually put the key back to OFF.

Finally, something the video doesn't show, is how to empty the fuel rails to minimize fuel weeping. I pulled Fuse #27 (Fuel Pump Relay) and just let the engine run the rail dry. You will get a code, the you must clear or you will not be able to reprogram the PCM (with my SCT Livewire) until the code is cleared.

But those are all the little "gotchas" I found you either must do or should do to make the install as easy as possible.

Also, make sure you torque the bolts to specs which can be hard to find (not in any videos). The link to XDI's Instructions for the F150 which had the torque specs, wasn't working properly. I had to actually email XDI for the instructions and torque specs. Which XDI did.
That blue one is a real hassle to first figure out.

You can bump the starter, but make sure lines are still hooked up or turn engine with crank bolt.

If you let the truck sit an hour, there is barely any fuel that comes out. This time i did it literally after shutting it off, the low side poured some more than first time(just put paper towel under) but the High pressure side....well it is is high pressure, lol. I cracked it and the pressure was puffing out. I was like damn! Kept slowly doing it.

The bolts I just tighterned down, no tq wrench. The one thing they say is to tighten actual top two pump bolts 1 turn at a time each side until tight.
 
421 - 440 of 447 Posts
Top