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Ya i just want to curb stomp for 100' haha.
 

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Corvettes only roll race.
 
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Discussion Starter · #503 ·
This is my valves after 60K with RX dual valve, CSS to air inbox and tapped into passenger intake tube. I had this can set up from about 1K to 59K, I just changed to Full race with gutted PCV. Maybe in 60k, I will pull intake and see if less build up. Only ran Amsoil SS since 1K

170252
170253
 

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Discussion Starter · #504 · (Edited)
If you refer to my parts thread list:

ENGINE PART NUMBERS FOR YOUR USE 11-16

I went through based on memory of every part I could think of I would need for motor swap, as we didnt know what new motor would come with. I order all these parts separately, in addition to long block. Turns out, the long block comes with basically everything. This is also a newer late model (16+) long block. So it comes with latest timing chain parts etc.

However, this motor is built for Transit vans. You'll notice the oil cooler is different and the filter is facing down instead of horizontal like our filters. Lucky for transit guys, no oil spill when changing oil!

For whatever reason, Ford sends it like this and tells end user to swap over F150 filter mount and cooler.

You'll also notice, this has the 16 water pump. I dont know if the pump fins are different or something and provide better cooling? or what, but from the outside, the only different is they now have 3 screws instead of 4. So you have to buy the newer pulley style. My old screws worked to mount this, just needed 3 vs 4.

The engine came with:
1. water pump
2. crank pulley ( was told it would not) you could just swap over yours though
3. All jiffy tite quick fittings in block and back of head
4. cam sensors and VCT sensors
5. HPFP (really surprising)
6. Vac pump
7. Fuel rails and injectors AND new harness already installed
8. Exhaust studs installed
9. Oil filter
10. All new sensors, including oil pressure sensor, head coolant sensor, crank sensor, fuel pressure sensor and whatever i am missing.

You literally just have to get new oil cooler and filter mount (youll need new mount o ring or new mount comes with the o ring) (bc if a bearing went, it would clog the oil cooler passages) and 16 water pump pulley, swap over your intake, rear head coolant cross over (get new o rings or a new one comes with o rings), Coolant tube below intake ( get new o rings for your reuse, new one comes with o rings) manifolds/turbos, swap over entire t state housing (new new o ring here) Alternator, AC pump, idler pulleys and flex plate. That is it.

Youll also new new manfiold gaskets and I would all turbo fittings and gaskets.

Finally, because throttle bodies are known to just fail on the electrics and not give a code, yet go into limp mode, I put a brand new throttle body on while it was apart.

I also swapped over to 2018+ yellow coolant VC-13-G. This is better than orange and lasts 10 years. Orange lasts 5. This yellow coolant offers better corrosion too. (see Ford tech video on youtube)

O, I also took the liberty to put on a pegaus elbow at the coolant tank. I could not find anything online making a new o ring for the quick fitting elbow and Ford (with discount) wanted 85$ for that hose. With 60k miles, I did not have a leak at the elbow. But being so common, I wanted to fix it while apart because I will be driving this thing the new 15years until it can't be driven anymore.....lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #507 ·
I will get some pictures of finalized clean engine and most some pics of that and a few other items.
 

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Discussion Starter · #508 ·
New engine also came with oil in it? Weird. Heat cylced that, changed it with Motorcraft syn blend and motorcraft filter, drove it home tonight carrying the old engine on pallet/in box. Should be around 600lbs payload? I have rear drop shackle with Bilsteins, it doesnt look like it is even squatting. It looks same as every day. I couldnt tell I was even hauling anything. The bilsteins worked really well with loaded up pay load. Bumps handled suspension great.

Anyways, felt good to drive it again after 45 days. Will drive on this oil 500 miles with heat cyles and rpm variance, change one more time with Motorcraft syn blend/filter and drive 1000 miles. Then Ill put Amsoil back in.
 

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Looking good. Glad your back on the road.

Are you going to tear into the other engine to see what the failure was?
 

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Discussion Starter · #510 ·
Looking good. Glad your back on the road.

Are you going to tear into the other engine to see what the failure was?
We didnt see metal shaving draining the oil. I am going to cut open the filter today and post back.

Getting into the old motor, unfortunately not. Did not have time and it is already packed up. I can tell you it is not knocking like it was lol. So it is not the transmission. The converter bolts and flex plate bolts were all tight too upon disassembly @Blown F-150
 

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Did you swap with the trans still in the crossmember, or did you need to move that? Also any electrical differences? PCM programming? Aren't control of the BOVs different?
 

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Discussion Starter · #512 ·
Did you swap with the trans still in the crossmember, or did you need to move that? Also any electrical differences? PCM programming? Aren't control of the BOVs different?
Move trans for engine swap?

Electrical differences related to what? I did research, all sensors are same on Gen 1 ecos.

Not sure what you mean about BOV. 11-12 have BOV on the turbos, 13-16 (and some 17's that use gen 1) are all on intercooler. 17+ is the electrical BOV.
 

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Woo, did you reinstall your GTs or just going with the stock turbos?

Or are they bigger than stock (aka bigger than GTs)?
 
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Discussion Starter · #517 ·
Wrong long block for a transit change the filter housing

Edit think you changed it in one pic.
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I commented in my paragraphs how ford sells these for transits and directs f150 to swap the mount and cooler. I bought new mount and cooler.

I was also told to check crank pulley, VCT sensors, Cam sensor and oil pan....all those part numbers are the same on all Gen 1 ecos.....so only thing you need to change is the oil mount and cooler.

Woo, did you reinstall your GTs or just going with the stock turbos?

Or are they bigger than stock (aka bigger than GTs)?
I put the GTs/down pipe ported/manifolds all went back on


Put some more miles on it tonight, everything running fine right now
 

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I commented in my paragraphs how ford sells these for transits and directs f150 to swap the mount and cooler. I bought new mount and cooler.

I was also told to check crank pulley, VCT sensors, Cam sensor and oil pan....all those part numbers are the same on all Gen 1 ecos.....so only thing you need to change is the oil mount and cooler.



I put the GTs/down pipe ported/manifolds all went back on


Put some more miles on it tonight, everything running fine right now
You should really check the water pump too, they have many periods where you had to change it as well. Pans are not all the same for F-150 versions and they are different now, as long as the pick up is at the right spec above pan your ok, did you pull it? That oil they had in there is breakin oil and they are primed or ore lubed. If you pulled the pan and drained oil you would see the tail end of oil in pan is disgusting with what literally looks like dark gray sand. That oil is also almost a florescent greenish yellow and has some serious lubricity did you feel it on your fingers? VCTADVERR solenoids are the same even if you don’t have right exhaust blue one but blue one is updated version on that one only and it’s oring’d and actually has an insert inside that blocks the center screen of vct to I suppose prevent oil in that one and restrict it more than others perhaps due to drain back to the tensioner. Don’t know but the white one will plug in so blue isn’t necessary but “supposedly” better. Somehow for that vct. Cmp sensors are all 2 wire grey no black for 13-16 on exhaust cams both banks which are Hall effects and 3 wire with a crazy strong magnet which I do not like one bit. Crank pulley was it HL3E or HL3Z part number and it is due to the depth and bevel on the Spigot which is shorter and is the right depth to press against the timing gear in crank and have the proper taper press fit. If it was removed that oem bolt is extremely critical to change and torque exactly to spec or within 1-2 ft/lbs or deg on final yield I think 30 ft/lbs 60 deg and then 90 deg which is a few ticks over 100 so about 108 ft/lbs once done and must be dry completely no oil at all or antiseize and if so you will or very common the bolt flys off and or crank snout snaps off just behind main 1.

Double check everything is in line though if you didn’t check h2o pump and they sell them to customers when we use new long blocks every time

No more motorcraft orange too!! Don’t use it, it’s either going to be or is obsolete in motorcraft brand so dexcool is next best option same thing too but the yellow is better for many reasons one being it’s more lubricious and two it really foams up and indicates something like a blown or seeping head gasket, or any water and oil mixing you can see much better, it’s wild how much it foams and shows up actually and it’s slippery like I’ve never felt. It literally feels like that oil that was in the engine when you got it if you feel it and rub two fingers together.

Don’t forget always distilled water too especially if you have hard water, and if you don’t see -40 deg F use 70/30 mix and the 50/50 is not as good for one and two you don’t need to waste the money. Big thing is you you can use higher psi rad or exp tank cap to raise boiling point which is better in my opinion in more ways than old timers recommending 7 psi cap and saying this is why I never blow a head gasket. Lol.

Also motorcraft calls it yellow I think not gold but just use generic I think it’s called Zerex Gold cheaper
 

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Discussion Starter · #519 ·
You should really check the water pump too, they have many periods where you had to change it as well. Pans are not all the same for F-150 versions and they are different now, as long as the pick up is at the right spec above pan your ok, did you pull it? That oil they had in there is breakin oil and they are primed or ore lubed. If you pulled the pan and drained oil you would see the tail end of oil in pan is disgusting with what literally looks like dark gray sand. That oil is also almost a florescent greenish yellow and has some serious lubricity did you feel it on your fingers? VCTADVERR solenoids are the same even if you don’t have right exhaust blue one but blue one is updated version on that one only and it’s oring’d and actually has an insert inside that blocks the center screen of vct to I suppose prevent oil in that one and restrict it more than others perhaps due to drain back to the tensioner. Don’t know but the white one will plug in so blue isn’t necessary but “supposedly” better. Somehow for that vct. Cmp sensors are all 2 wire grey no black for 13-16 on exhaust cams both banks which are Hall effects and 3 wire with a crazy strong magnet which I do not like one bit. Crank pulley was it HL3E or HL3Z part number and it is due to the depth and bevel on the Spigot which is shorter and is the right depth to press against the timing gear in crank and have the proper taper press fit. If it was removed that oem bolt is extremely critical to change and torque exactly to spec or within 1-2 ft/lbs or deg on final yield I think 30 ft/lbs 60 deg and then 90 deg which is a few ticks over 100 so about 108 ft/lbs once done and must be dry completely no oil at all or antiseize and if so you will or very common the bolt flys off and or crank snout snaps off just behind main 1.

Double check everything is in line though if you didn’t check h2o pump and they sell them to customers when we use new long blocks every time

No more motorcraft orange too!! Don’t use it, it’s either going to be or is obsolete in motorcraft brand so dexcool is next best option same thing too but the yellow is better for many reasons one being it’s more lubricious and two it really foams up and indicates something like a blown or seeping head gasket, or any water and oil mixing you can see much better, it’s wild how much it foams and shows up actually and it’s slippery like I’ve never felt. It literally feels like that oil that was in the engine when you got it if you feel it and rub two fingers together.

Don’t forget always distilled water too especially if you have hard water, and if you don’t see -40 deg F use 70/30 mix and the 50/50 is not as good for one and two you don’t need to waste the money. Big thing is you you can use higher psi rad or exp tank cap to raise boiling point which is better in my opinion in more ways than old timers recommending 7 psi cap and saying this is why I never blow a head gasket. Lol.

Also motorcraft calls it yellow I think not gold but just use generic I think it’s called Zerex Gold cheaper
1. if you read my post you see what I said about water pump. It comes already installed, just not a pulley. It is the latest design. It has 3 bolts instead of 4. Buy the pulley is all you need.
2. I could not find out metal oil pan anywhere online. I only saw transverse and the newer plastic. The pick up is listed as same part on all gen 1 ecos, so I would think the oil pan is. They looked the same.
3. No i did not pull the pan. It came pre filled with oil and had the bigger filter on it like off the lot. We heat cycled that oil for rings and then drained and filled with motorcraft syn bled 5-30 Im driving for 500miles on.
4. In the pic you can see the exhaust vct is blue. This is a 16+ engine as I said and has all the latest part numbers on it.
5. I bought a OEM crank bolt and washer to swap mine over. I have the Motorcraft manual and tq procedures, You gotta tq, back off, tq again etc, however this engine came with new crank pulley already installed so didnt have to worry about it. Sending bolt and washer back
6. Again in my post, orange is discontinued. It is supposed to last 50k. New yellow is 10year 100k and better lubricity. If you change the orange according to spec.mileage, it will be fine, if never change it bad (dexcool). I ordered 3 gallons of the 2018 plus yellow (vc-13-g) and had distilled water from the store, however they mistankly sent me 3 gallons of the 50/50 mix cv-13dil-g. So i ordered two more gallons of 50/50 from rockauto and had to have it 2 day shipped to be here in time. Spec calls 16.5 quart, 4.1 gallon. We got 3.75 gallon using vacuum fill. I have some minor orange coolant from radiator that has showed up in the expansion tank, but that is ok, it can be mixed....very very small amount anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #520 ·
I think I commented I replaced throttle body while apart just because they fail at higher mileage.

I also replaced all 4 O2 sensors to do it while apart.

The only thing I have to replace now is alt/starter/intank pump. Everything else is new. 😵😭 Ill be the one waiving in an old truck when you all are driving electric vehicles in 10 years.
 
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