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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Amsoil would not provide details on oils, from information they would release the new 5-30 diesel SS has higher NOACK and lower TBN than the 5-30 gas to name a stat, thus I will be sticking with gas. It seems overall better oil. I guess diesel can get away with this because they run a substantial more amount of oil. We are only given 6 quarts to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Final update. 4th oil analysis, (have done every oil change so far). I wont post a picture this time (you can see previous in this thread), just the important details. I went 265 days(longest) and 5000 miles(most miles) reader was reading 10% oil life down from 100%

Results - Less than 1% estimate fuel dilution (still smelled like fuel) this is coming from greater than 5%, 5% and 2.8% before. Viscosity at 9.9 (highest it has ever been) and TBN was at 4.21 (lowest it has been due to miles but plenty left in it). So now that i have some mileage on the truck(broken in) and cold start turned off, oil wearing much better. I am going to go at least 7500 miles this time, up to 10,000 (depending on reader. the reader has been working fine with me actually based on analysis). I am driving much more for work now so I will be putting miles on truck. This is again with 5-30 SS and SS filter.

I would also like to note the oil was BLACK and smelled of fuel, even with less than 1% tested. Just because it is black does not mean it is bad.

Finally, Silicon tested great again, no warning at all on test. So much for that K&N letting all that dirt in.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Went 8k this change with oil life monitor at 8%. This is again heavy city driving with lots of stop and go traffic. Viscosity was almost as new from what Amosil 5-30 begins with....TBN was getting low, it was like 3.xx...which is still safe. So oil like at 0% would have been correct. Everything else was good, no fuel again. 10k+ is possible with highway driving I believe.

I requested the new formulation of Amsoil LSPI prevention, dont know if I got it because the bottles etc are the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 · (Edited)
Been doing some upgrades.

Wanted to powder coat calipers, you have to take them completely apart, pistons, seals etc to do so(no idea how to get new seals for calipers or put back together) and shops still don't like to do them due to liability. It also takes a lot of cleaning of old ones to get right. So I chose to buy brand new OEM and paint with G2. I bought new bracets too and painted those as well.

For brakes I did some research. I had the bad vibration even after turning the stock rotors. I eneded up going with R1 Concepts rotors and posi quite ceramic brake pads. Found these being used on the raptor forum quite a bit and got a really good deal through a vendor there.
1. Heres the information provided about the R1 rotors. They are supposed to be cast in the UK (not verified) and treated, machined and coated in California. The rotors I got are the "geomet" line which are "op rotor line, G3500 high carbon metallic casting, dissipate heat faster than cast iron, lighter and stronger than cast iron; coated with geomet which Is better than zinc and are lifetime crack resistant." The eline is G3000, "G3000 grade cast iron and zinc coated, same as (stop tech and powerstop?)" and are not as good as the G3500. This is the information provided to me, don't know if 100% true.
2. Posiquite are ceramic made in china. They make FAR less brake dust. It is amazing. I am so happy.
3. Fluid is Amsoil Syn.
4. I sprayed the back of the pads with some red crap from NAPA for noise prevention.
5. I bedded the pads following R1 website. I don't remember the details, you can find there, but it was like 60 to 10 half pedal, 50 to 10 4 times in a row really hard, then 60 to 5 medium, all this back to back. The rotors will be hot and smoking. This is normal.
6. There is not rust on the rotors, with exception of the machined slotted. I think they machined these after they coated them, thus there is no coating here. There is very slight surface rust here.
7. On the new calipers, I also bought brand new copper rings for banjo bolt, caliper bolts, bracket bolts etc. Ford give you 50$ core charge on each caliper when send back. Very good deal. Front caliper bracket bolts are 185ft lbs! Rear is 125? (if i remember right). If you want to torque down anything, do the bracket bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 · (Edited)
New stuff, including gorilla black lug nuts. I have waited forever to find these and finally jumped. Looks way better and perform way better.

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Here is the new socket I bought to try to prevent the black lug nuts from scratching. It has a vyinl cover on the outside and s similar one on the inside. So far, it does not work that well. Has already left some light marks on the outside of the lug nuts. It has not scratched the front portion though, which is good. This would be great if you had lug nuts that were not as exposed as ours. Our lug nuts are very outside of the wheel.

 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Next, replaced the RX check valves with UPR billet ones for piece of mind on a better product. The RX I have not completely opened, however I tested them and they still work as they should. The RX ones came pre installed in the lines with shrink tubing so the end user could not mess them up. I simply cut it open with a razor and replaced.

Make sure you put both check valves flowing AWAY from the catch can.

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Next, changed plugs with 30k on them. Only snugged them down, no problems(not pictured) and cleaned map sensor on intake and K&N filter. This is about 4 years i believe. The catch can is working? Not much oil. K&N is falling apart. Trying to get a new one.

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Discussion Starter · #89 · (Edited)
Then, I replaced the third brake light. I had previously had it off once before. Upon taking it off, it was very stuck to the truck paint and sealed 100%, however this time it was very thin and I was afraid it would leak. I just bought a new one ($85!!). I also went around the gap and filled it with RTV to prevent anything from going in. I left a few gaps on the bottom so it still has a vent source. I noticed dirt and mold growing in the old one and it annoyed me. Here are the pics.

This new brake light, also has a new part number, the last two letters are changed.

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Discussion Starter · #90 · (Edited)
Then I dropped the transmission pan (not pictured) I cleaned the magnet (it was kinda dirty, mostly from break in material I assume). I filled it while cold to between the A and B hatch marks (cold and hot hatch marks). Have to use a hand pump. I guess you could use a funnel and tube from engine bay if you have a helper. It took about 6.5 quarts, i was told it would take 7.5 (shurg). I used Amsoil of course. Make sure you use a link free rag when cleaning panand magnet. I use fresh microfiber towels. Very important.

I replaced the front diff. fluid. I sucked out as much as I could, which only was about a quart. The front diff is supposed to take 1.75 quarts. I used Amsoil severe gear 75 90. I already have amsoil in rear and transfer case as mentioned in this thread. The stock crap that comes out of the front is yellow! (look at the line, that is a clear line in the pic)

So now, every fluid, besides the coolant, is Amsoil in my truck.

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I also pulled the drive shaft and lubed the splines (pictured dry no lube) with amsoil syn grease. I took measurements as well because I plan on ordering a drive shaft. The grease has helped tremendously. I no longer have the slam when stopping and when taking off from a light. However I still have the harmonics at highway speed. I hope the new driveshaft will fix. Use loctite always on the driveshaft bolts!

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Finally, I put on PTP Turbo blankets. Pictured is the driver side.

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
A lot of odds and ends I did not picture while going and probably forget to mention right now. This has been over the past few weeks. I will add more if I remember.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Turbo blanket measured 280+/- and the downpipe measured 390 after drive to work. Center section 220.

One more part to come this year. Stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Also to note, i pulled the stock skid plate. I remember the nuts being 13? The top was SO CAKED with oil. I scrubbed that thing forever. Really wanting to get that relocation next oil change. Didn't take any pics on that one. SO nasty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Turbo blanket measured 280+/- and the downpipe measured 390 after drive to work. Center section 220.

One more part to come this year. Stay tuned.
This is a pretty large difference especially because these blankets are so small and don't even wrap the entire turbo (no room). I think I can get the laser on the turbo housing itsellf with a small gap. I will check today after drive home. I imagine the hot housing will be 390 just like the downpipe. That is reducing a lot of heat.
 

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Turbo blanket measured 280+/- and the downpipe measured 390 after drive to work. Center section 220.

One more part to come this year. Stay tuned.
Interesting about the Turbo Blanket. Who did you purchase it from?

I have had my GT Turbos ceramic coated - though I have yet to install. I am still having other parts "prepped" like my new CRP Exhaust Manifolds ceramic coated. Depending on how things go, I may get them installed this winter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
grim,

It's PTP turbo blanket. I made a thread years ago about it. They were saying at the time they would have something released...which was a lie. Just now released and still not officially up on the website yet even.

Ceramic coat is great. This could be additional protection. If i upgrade turbos, i will be ceramic coating them, as well as downpipes.

I want these things for heat management in the engine bay, for longevity. In the summer, I notice my feet get uncomfortably hot driving any longer distance because so much heat is coming from turbo and downpipes/cats. The cats are literally next to the foot well.s and reach thousands of degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
The wiper arms have been fading since new. I have been wanting to replace for over a year and finally did. I was going to get them powder coated but it is already a powder coat I believe, just cheap. I had a few paint chips on the old ones, pictured is the worst one that rusted. Could i have buffed them out and did a touch up job on paint? Yes, but it is cheap to get new ones. I then had them clear bra applied and I sealed(wax) the clear bra when i picked them up. They are completely wrapped on the entire arm, except the little bump. Finally, the new arms came with a little metal alignment to mount properly? The mount has a grove they go into. My old arms did not have this, weird.

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
I also emailed K and N the pics of the filter edges breaking, they sent me a replacement no questions asked free of charge. It is in the truck now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Installed 1 piece aluminum drive shaft, 3.5 diameter (3.5 driveshaft for 3.5 engine??:cool:), .120 wall thickness, 1350 u joint. Supposed to be safe for a lot more power/rpm than this truck will ever see. Also it is balanced to tighter tolerances vs stock.

This model regular cab in 2wd is a 2 piece and mine being 4x4, was a factory 1 piece steel (odd right?). I did not take diameter measurement of stock shaft(oops, i still have it though so I can) but it is for sure smaller. It is either 3 or 2.5. I imagine it has a thinner wall thickness(vs .120) as well.

I did this for my own study, to see if this takes away the harmonic vibration at highway speed. Even with my short wheel base, 1 piece shaft, i still have this. I did lower the rear 2 inch to be level with the front, I added a 1 degree shim and think my drive line angles are correct (although i would like to confirm this with a chassis shop).

A lot of people on here and online in general complain about this vibration and most are trying the raptor transmission mount/wheel re balance. This vibration is around 65, 70, 75 depending, where you can see the passenger seat vibrating, feel it in your back or I saw a guy on youtube film his cup in the holder. I am still on stock tires and wheel balance. To be changed next year with new tires.

Time will tell if this vibration still occurs. I have not done enough driving to confirm or not. As of now, i will have some vibrations I can feel. It does feel much better at WOT.

it is also worth to note, this thing is MUCH lighter than the stock steel unit. Maybe I picked up a few hp at the tire and can get 0.5 mpg better? ;)

If anyone is interested in a driveshaft, PM me and i will tell you the shop I used. It is reputable. I will post this information once I get more mileage/time on it.

Till next time.

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The reason why the 2WD is 2 piece is the 6R80 doesn't have a slip yolk on the that trans, on the 4WD it does. The 2 piece allows for the driveshaft to have a slip yolk instead.
Trust me it's been a hard learned lesson. My 5" aluminum one will go in next week, dropping truck off to have it installed (will need new gas tank mount) along with the finalization of my suspension (hopefully).
 
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