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i started to install mine yesterday and did not like the locations the cans are to be installed in. makes it a pain to get to the cans to unscrew the bottoms to empty them. especially if you have the AFE stage 2 cai. then on the passenger side i can not fit the can in there right because of some factory fitting on the intake piping. not something you would want to mess with if you have to empty the cans very often. thinking about moving the cans to another location to make it easier to access or returning them. buy the time i fab up a bracket and buy more hose i will have almost as much in these cans as i would have the rx can. only plus will be is not having to drill into my preturbo piping.

But without drilling and providing the secondary evacuation source that corrects the flaw causing all the issues in the first place. Without this all the gunk is still accumulating in the crankcase and the engine oil as that is where it first accumulates before crankcase pressure pushes some of it out and into the CAC. Unless you can adapt and modify so that the crankcase is evacuated at all times, and not just at idle and low throttle, the source of all this is not addressed.
 

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if i cant figure out a better way to mount these cans i might send them back and get the rx can. but so far i am still scratching my head about where and how to mount these things.
 

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Well obviously you can't clean the valves with soap and water lol. I was just hoping they would self clean once the oil issue is resolved. But, this is a direct injection motor so there isn't any fuel passing by the intake valves to help clean them off. The RX can is more expensive but seems to be the best out there and handles both sides instead of having to buy 2. Hopefully all is well...makes me nervous thinking about all the sludge that could be building up and the stuff that has already been ingested!
You can go get an upper induction cleaning done by BG or Ford (and there are others) or you can buy one of the awful products that you spray directly into the throttle body (do not recommend) but either way you can get your stuff cleaned up and then install your cans to maintain!
 

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What would be awesome for these catch cans is if they tapped the bottom of the can and ran a valved hose out to somewhere convenient to drain the contents. Would be much easier to reach in and flip a valve with a water bottle on the hose than try to reach in and unscrew the can every few days in the winter...
 

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Boom Rx for the victory!!! Just don't forget your little pieces (sorry had to :D )

Sent The Big Swamp Land
 

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Yes but RX catch can also has a ridiculous price tag, poor quality assurance and oversight, terrible packaging and installation instructions and only cleans one side. For more than a hundred bucks less I can get a can for each side, quality packaging with all hardware and parts, instructions that look like someone gave a crap and superior customer service from stage3. You can give rx the victory but they won't get my money

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Let's keep it civil, gents. There's pros and cons to each can setup, which is why we haven't locked this thread yet, despite it really being about UPRs cans. There's good information here, regardless of choice.

Granted, we're a little biased towards the UPRs, just because they are easier to install and perform well.

Anyway, here's the install video again of our current dual setup, for those that missed it.

 

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Not trying to bash just sharing consumer feedback on a product that I think is overpriced

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I have been running the stage three dual cans for about 3 weeks. The supplied fittings made it a snap and I have my OEM lines stored in plastic in case I ever need them.

After towing my boat on a few 200 mile round trips I am getting material in both cans, mostly condensation but coffee cream brown so they are catching stuff that would otherwise get through.

For those that are running two cans, have you done any alternate mounting locations to make them easier to empty? Reason for my question is where I live in northern climate with long stretches of sub zero in the winter. My only concern with these cans is if I ever had one overfill then sending a slug of condensation into the turbo or intake. I expect that I will need to empty frequently due to condensation during extreme cold weather. Any issues with the cans freezing up? Pics of alternate mounting locations would be great if you have them.
 

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i am working on finding a new place to mount these cans. Im going to order some 5/8" vacuum hose and fab up a bracket to mount them on. maybe mounting it something like the RX can gets mounted. dunno if i want to mount them to one bracket or a bracket on each side.
 

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Quick question for those running the Stage 3 UPR cans. I've been searching all the threads on a couple sites, and I can't find a good replacement for the drain-bolt. I'd really like a quick release valve of some sort. I believe it's 5/16", but that's a wag. I'll measure and try searching again. My fat arms plus a ratchet won't fit under all that plumbing to get to the drain. If you could link a part, that'd be great. I looked at my auto parts store and was greeted with blank stares. *chuckle*
 

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If I am not mistaken, it is 1/4 NPT and you can get a 1/4 turn fitting like the RX uses and swap it in easy enough....
Thanks for the reply! Of course, the post on the other forum said 1/8 NPT. *chuckle* I'll measure the bolt again and see what info I can find for outer diameters out there.
 

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Stupid question... So the upr cans do have a drain bolt?

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Stupid question... So the upr cans do have a drain bolt?
They have an allen bolt on the bottom (I don't know the size off the top of my head) that's used as a drain bolt. It's still probably easier to just unscrew the can when you need to empty it/them out.
 

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Okay nice im thinking of attaching a twist valve and line down and around to secure in front of the radiator to make it really easy

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