F150 Ecoboost Forum banner
1 - 20 of 134 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey fellow motorheads...

Got an out of state co-worker with one of these trucks, I wanna say its a 2010~2011??? and he has complained of weak throttle response (TR). He mentioned the forums directed him to recalibrate the TPS which he did, and TR improved some but still is lacking. I suggested his issue is IAT related since he is in the Phoenix area. From that came some questions I hope to get answered before I head down there next week. Unfortunately I dont have the time to dig into the forums to find the answers or I would, so sorry for that.

Does his engine have a single or twin turbo setup?

Is the turbine wrapped from the factory?

Is the fuel rail metal or plastic?

Is the fuel rail on the outside of the intake or buried under it? (I've seen that setup, it sucks)

Iron block with aluminum heads?

Stock t-stat temp?

Is this a direct injection motor?


Again, sorry for having to ask, I just dont have the time to dig in and find these answers.

TIA

Edit: Got the answers... thanks
 

·
Registered
2013 race red SCrew 4x4 air lift bags
Joined
·
2,410 Posts
Well, you're not sure the year or how many turbos it has, that's some basic info. Are you sure it's an eb?
More info would get you more help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
He says its an EB and I believe he said its the 1st year of the EB motor... Its not my truck and its not sitting nearby, going to help him solve his problem with what I know works... if possible.
 

·
Moderstrator
Joined
·
1,870 Posts
Hi - we are here to help but you have been a little vague and that’s understandable since it’s your friend’s truck and it’s not around for you to look at. I’m sure others will chime in soon and offer advice on poor throttle response - possibly fuel issues.
 
  • Like
Reactions: steve05ram360

·
Registered
2013 race red SCrew 4x4 air lift bags
Joined
·
2,410 Posts
Replace the throttle body? it's common for them to go bad. If it doesn't throw any codes, It could be a laundry list of things. You'll need to do a TB relearn after it's installed, the procedure is on YouTube.

Use motorcraft stuff, all other is trash.
 

·
Premium Member
2022 Powergrid KingRanch in Sparkle White
Joined
·
14,040 Posts
There's a fella from Arkansas that has a quick and thorough Gen1 3.5 Ecoboost tune-up kit list.
If he stops in that would be a great starting point just for the sake of process-of-elimination. :)

It's all easy enough to accomplish and for an Ecoboost, it's a valid list for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I am pretty sure he did all the basics already, will be looking to insulate under hood heat sources while down there. Found all the answers to my questions... I will keep an eye on this thread for a bit for any other info...

right off the bat he needs to wrap the turbines on the turbos, wrap the fuel rail & feed lines, consider dropping down to a 180* tstat if the ECU will allow it (there is a 187* stat but does not buy much from the stock 190*). Will hook up my scantool when down there to see what CT & IATs are along with timing. I will bet his timing is getting pulled for high IATs. Will also get him to swap the map sensor if it has one. Will also look at the intake setup and see if anything can be done to it to ensure it is not drawing in engine compartment air.

Yes it does have a MAP sensor (2 of them)... on the air box & IM according to Rockauto...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
ah, and the pvc valve & hoses...

On his direct injection... are you guys using sea foam thru the IM vacuum to clean the back of the valves?

edit: are the BOV's a problem on these motors after 100~150k? Vacuum actuated & one for ea turbo...if its a 2011-12

And the CAC, I'll bet his is clogged up and needs a good cleaning...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,341 Posts
Wrapping components will not make a large enough difference.

I would have him start simple:
-Clean the TIP and MAP sensors
-Replace the PCV valve.
-Double check all vacuum lines on the manifold and check valves are still working
-2011/12 have a vacuum reservoir located on the passenger side firewall. This operates the BPVs.
-Replace Air Filter
-Remove any deflectors on the front of the intercooler, leave the top rear one
- Have him take a look at the BPVs on the turbos if it’s a 2011-2012+. 2013+ have an eBOV attached to the end tank on the intercooler.
-Inspect the Spark plugs for excessive gapping and/or carbon tracking

He can run a bottle of Techron at his next fill up. Tho it may not do much, it does not hurt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
blankets on the turbines does make a difference as well as the fuel rail, first hand experience with it, little things start to add up. I would assume the MAPs are original and they should be replaced, the diaphragm in them hardens and becomes less responsive. What is the TIP sensor? RE: Vacuum lines... thanks!
 

·
Moderstrator
Joined
·
4,485 Posts
Though wrapping turbos can help to some degree when ringing out horsepower I don't think this is what you are looking at. This problem sounds like an issue of there is something wrong rather than what can I do to get every last pony out of this engine. If all is well with the engine the throttle response will be just fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,341 Posts
blankets on the turbines does make a difference as well as the fuel rail, first hand experience with it, little things start to add up. I would assume the MAPs are original and they should be replaced, the diaphragm in them hardens and becomes less responsive. What is the TIP sensor? RE: Vacuum lines... thanks!
No doubt they would help. Just not on a production truck. It’s not necessary.

The MAP sensor is located on the intake manifold. Held in by one bolt. It is threaded into plastic so be careful not to overtighten.

The TIP sensor is located on the charge pipe connected to the throttle body. 5-6” in front of the throttle body.

Both sensors can be cleaned with MAF sensor cleaner. I would only replace them if the PCM throws a fault.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Though wrapping turbos can help to some degree when ringing out horsepower I don't think this is what you are looking at. This problem sounds like an issue of there is something wrong rather than what can I do to get every last pony out of this engine. If all is well with the engine the throttle response will be just fine.
No in this case it would be to reduce under the hood temps, the fuel rail wrap would help to prevent the heat soak on it. I dont think he really has a problem, I think the ECU is pulling timing because of the 100+ deg temps they see daily. I see it as a challenge to make it run better under the worst conditions.

@Arkensas Eco been doing the rail wrap for 20+ years now, every one of them saw a benefit when combined with a cooler, 2 have shown benefits but to a lesser degree w/o the cooler. Simple cheap mod prevents timing pull from pinging. You are limited to the fuel temps that are in the tank though at that point.

You guys have pointed out several things that did not cross my mind while thinking about his issue.. Thanks for that! It is appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,096 Posts
No in this case it would be to reduce under the hood temps, the fuel rail wrap would help to prevent the heat soak on it. I dont think he really has a problem, I think the ECU is pulling timing because of the 100+ deg temps they see daily. I see it as a challenge to make it run better under the worst conditions.

@Arkensas Eco been doing the rail wrap for 20+ years now, every one of them saw a benefit when combined with a cooler, 2 have shown benefits but to a lesser degree w/o the cooler. Simple cheap mod prevents timing pull from pinging. You are limited to the fuel temps that are in the tank though at that point.

You guys have pointed out several things that did not cross my mind while thinking about his issue.. Thanks for that! It is appreciated.
Well since you almost tagged me.
Seems like you already know all about these engines, what is wrong with your friends's engine, and what to do to fix it.
Good luck !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well since you almost tagged me.
Seems like you already know all about these engines, what is wrong with your friends's engine, and what to do to fix it.
Good luck !
Thanks... I will need it, I see some challenges in that motor and love challenges. I will see if I can get him in here for his point of view.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,858 Posts
No in this case it would be to reduce under the hood temps, the fuel rail wrap would help to prevent the heat soak on it. I dont think he really has a problem, I think the ECU is pulling timing because of the 100+ deg temps they see daily. I see it as a challenge to make it run better under the worst conditions.

@Arkensas Eco been doing the rail wrap for 20+ years now, every one of them saw a benefit when combined with a cooler, 2 have shown benefits but to a lesser degree w/o the cooler. Simple cheap mod prevents timing pull from pinging. You are limited to the fuel temps that are in the tank though at that point.

You guys have pointed out several things that did not cross my mind while thinking about his issue.. Thanks for that! It is appreciated.
I think some of the heat introduced into the fuel is a result of the high pressure fuel pump just like on a diesel. Usually i see people using fuel coolers on a diesel, but I have not hear of wrapping the rails.

I would also not wrap the exhaust manifolds in case that thought had crossed your mind. They are already very notorious for warping/sagging and so adding any additional heat to them is probably not a good thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think some of the heat introduced into the fuel is a result of the high pressure fuel pump just like on a diesel. Usually i see people using fuel coolers on a diesel, but I have not hear of wrapping the rails.

I would also not wrap the exhaust manifolds in case that thought had crossed your mind. They are already very notorious for warping/sagging and so adding any additional heat to them is probably not a good thing.
I wouldnt do the manifolds for sure, on the Cummins they are also prone to shrinkage and cracking and generally only get wrapped if replaced with a beefier version. I have a blanket over mine and over the turbine on the turbo. Made a very noticeable difference in < 20*f temps when I did it. Turbo response was very similar to summer time response after the install.

On the fuel if there is a return back to the tank, then a cooler definitely would help. Now a days I dont think anyone makes a return setup on a gas motor (diesels will still have it). When I first discovered the benefits of the fuel cooler it was to solve a pinging problem with a bmw that was using 91 octane fuel where it required 93 (chipped). The eye opener was when I filled up in 100*f temp and had no pinging for a while until the fuel in the tank got heat soaked again. The rail wrap helps a little but only under more sever conditions. Had a Mini Cooper S that definitely benefited from it since the engine compartment is so tight. The current ram has a cooler but the rail is not wrapped yet... forgot all about it until now, doh!

also, I pinged the owner and will see if he jumps in... he has less bandwidth then I do so wouldnt be until tonight if at all...
 
1 - 20 of 134 Posts
Top