F150 Ecoboost Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 115 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
314 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Found nice aluminum oil catch cans on eBay for 20 dollars. Has anybody used any of them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
608 Posts
Don't see the point in spending a whole bunch of money on a fancy can, it's just a can, just me though. Make sure it's baffled, and that the hoses are good quality that won't collapse and you're good. IN MY OPINION.

Sent while enjoying a Pabst
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
1,173 Posts
Lots of them on ebay....empty cans no different than taking a beer can and adding 2 fittings. A properly functioning catchcan has a ton of science and engineering into how it is designed, and how it filters and separates the oil so none can get through. That includes proper baffeling, placement of inlet & outlet so they cannot suck through droplets, being large enough so there are no freezing issues in the winter due to small size, etc.

Starting on page 2 of this thread most cans are covered, cut aways and videos along with detailed explanations on what works, and what does not. ANY can will catch oil, it is what a can allows top be pulled through that matters.....and that is why most on the market are very ineffective in separating the iol porperly, and not letting it through, etc.

http://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/3...69-you-want-catch-cans-we-got-catch-cans.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
just digging up an old thread..
Question about the whole "Catch Can" mania here..
Why? Please explain the reasoning behind this?
To my understanding it's to avoid Water vapors from entering your engine?
If this is the case why have they been selling water injection kits for decades that help turbo boosted cars perform better?
The whole idea that ingesting trace amounts of fuel or water is damaging to the engine is laughable. You're talking about what PPM here vs Fuel and Air? If it was 1:1 I'd be concerned, but odds are this is a very small amount of oil and water per compression stroke. The fact that it takes 5000 miles to get 1 cup tells me this.. 1 cup = 8fl-oz
5000miles/20mpg = 350Gallons of gas..
1gallon=128fl oz
128x350=44,800fl oz
you're talking 1 part per 5600..
5600:1 fuel to water/oil mix .. and what's the fuel to air ratio? Oh yeah.. 14.7 .. So lets toss that into the mix, shall we?
esentially it's about 82,000:1 regular combustion to crap ratio based on 1 cup per 5500 miles. If this is an inaccurate amount please let me know and I'll be glad to do more disproving math..
The following is a direct quote from a Wiki page, but you can do some quick research and find similar information all over the internet.
"In internal combustion engines, water injection, also known as anti-detonant injection, is spraying water into the incoming air or fuel-air mixture, or directly into the cylinder, in order to cool them. It was used historically to increase the power output of military aviation engines for short durations such as dogfights or takeoff, however it has also been used in motor sport and notably in drag racing. In Otto cycle engines the cooling effects of water injection also allow for greater compression ratios by reducing the problem of engine knocking (detonation). Alternately this reduction in engine knocking in Otto cycle engines means that in some applications significant performance gains can be obtained when water injection is used in conjunction with a supercharger, turbocharger and/or other modifications such as a more aggressive ignition timing. Depending on the engine, improvements in power and fuel efficiency can also be obtained solely by injecting water.[SUP][1][/SUP] Water injection may also be used to reduce NOx or carbon monoxide emissions.[SUP][1]"



[/SUP]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Oh, and if you still want/need a catch can, buy an ebay one that can open, put some filter media in it (steel or aluminum wool) and change that media out every few months. For $20.00 you can replace that junk monthly and still come out way ahead vs an RX can..
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
1,173 Posts
just digging up an old thread..
Question about the whole "Catch Can" mania here..
Why? Please explain the reasoning behind this?
To my understanding it's to avoid Water vapors from entering your engine?
If this is the case why have they been selling water injection kits for decades that help turbo boosted cars perform better?
The whole idea that ingesting trace amounts of fuel or water is damaging to the engine is laughable. You're talking about what PPM here vs Fuel and Air? If it was 1:1 I'd be concerned, but odds are this is a very small amount of oil and water per compression stroke. The fact that it takes 5000 miles to get 1 cup tells me this.. 1 cup = 8fl-oz
5000miles/20mpg = 350Gallons of gas..
1gallon=128fl oz
128x350=44,800fl oz
you're talking 1 part per 5600..
5600:1 fuel to water/oil mix .. and what's the fuel to air ratio? Oh yeah.. 14.7 .. So lets toss that into the mix, shall we?
esentially it's about 82,000:1 regular combustion to crap ratio based on 1 cup per 5500 miles. If this is an inaccurate amount please let me know and I'll be glad to do more disproving math..
The following is a direct quote from a Wiki page, but you can do some quick research and find similar information all over the internet.
"In internal combustion engines, water injection, also known as anti-detonant injection, is spraying water into the incoming air or fuel-air mixture, or directly into the cylinder, in order to cool them. It was used historically to increase the power output of military aviation engines for short durations such as dogfights or takeoff, however it has also been used in motor sport and notably in drag racing. In Otto cycle engines the cooling effects of water injection also allow for greater compression ratios by reducing the problem of engine knocking (detonation). Alternately this reduction in engine knocking in Otto cycle engines means that in some applications significant performance gains can be obtained when water injection is used in conjunction with a supercharger, turbocharger and/or other modifications such as a more aggressive ignition timing. Depending on the engine, improvements in power and fuel efficiency can also be obtained solely by injecting water.[SUP][1][/SUP] Water injection may also be used to reduce NOx or carbon monoxide emissions.[SUP][1]"



[/SUP]
I suggest you read the several threads that answer all your questions...and look at the pictures of the hydro locked pistons breaking rods and throwing them through rods, learn about the difference between port injection and direct injection, and how engine oil is unable to protect the rotating assy of the engine of full of water/unburnt fuel/ contaminating the oil so accelerated bearing wear and failure, etc. are not what most would want to protect their engine.

Then, since the EcoBoost has a flaw in the OEM PCV system that only allows evacuation at idle and low throttle, 80% plus of the time all these damaging compounds are accumulating in the crankcase causing this damage. So more reading we suggest as just coming in at this stage with what you posted is pretty foolish looking....lots of data here to save you time and get you up to date, then join in an intelligent discussion.



Oh, and if you still want/need a catch can, buy an ebay one that can open, put some filter media in it (steel or aluminum wool) and change that media out every few months. For $20.00 you can replace that junk monthly and still come out way ahead vs an RX can..
Woha!!!! Now your really off on another planet? Can you explain any of this absolutely false claim? Come on!!! Look at all the diagrams and tests....you sound like one of the Micky Mouse can koolaide drinkers that hasn't a clue on function and design. Take ANY can on the market, your choice. Install the RX can inline AFTER any can of your choice...Moroso, Billet Prototypes, Mike Norris, Mickey Mouse, and the RX can will catch as much to as much as 5-10 times any other can will.....and thats AFTER that can did its best first. Want links to results of these tests? Just ask.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,597 Posts
Tuner, why even reply to uneducated garbage?! Just direct them to the website. It's all there!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
I suggest you read the several threads that answer all your questions...and look at the pictures of the hydro locked pistons breaking rods and throwing them through rods, learn about the difference between port injection and direct injection, and how engine oil is unable to protect the rotating assy of the engine of full of water/unburnt fuel/ contaminating the oil so accelerated bearing wear and failure, etc. are not what most would want to protect their engine.

Then, since the EcoBoost has a flaw in the OEM PCV system that only allows evacuation at idle and low throttle, 80% plus of the time all these damaging compounds are accumulating in the crankcase causing this damage. So more reading we suggest as just coming in at this stage with what you posted is pretty foolish looking....lots of data here to save you time and get you up to date, then join in an intelligent discussion.





Woha!!!! Now your really off on another planet? Can you explain any of this absolutely false claim? Come on!!! Look at all the diagrams and tests....you sound like one of the Micky Mouse can koolaide drinkers that hasn't a clue on function and design. Take ANY can on the market, your choice. Install the RX can inline AFTER any can of your choice...Moroso, Billet Prototypes, Mike Norris, Mickey Mouse, and the RX can will catch as much to as much as 5-10 times any other can will.....and thats AFTER that can did its best first. Want links to results of these tests? Just ask.
Sure, I dont' make a profit from the ebay catch cans.. You make profit on the $300+ ones you peddle here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,052 Posts
Cause I want facts.


So is Mighty Mouse math wrong? He stated some info & all you are going to do is direct him to the website. & who says you are full of facts? This debate is getting bigger than tunes.


Instead of arguing, disclaim his statements. & not by saying that the RX can will catch junk after others.


You know what. I'm going to show this thread to my ford dealer & see what they say. If it hey say these engines are junk. Maybe I will buy a can.





No estoy baneado
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
In response to the earlier post about damaged engine parts. I believe we are more likely to see hydro locked engines because of a full catch can vs without running one. Or are you saying water injection is a myth??
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,862 Posts
if this was a $30K dollar G8 then maybe I would go about the 'cheap' way...but not a $54K dollar truck. Sorry, I like nice things and plan to keep them nice...and out of a junkyard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
777 Posts
In response to the earlier post about damaged engine parts. I believe we are more likely to see hydro locked engines because of a full catch can vs without running one. Or are you saying water injection is a myth??
You're joking right? You do realize that water injection is a metered charge of H2O and methanol in precise amounts. Hydro locking is water in a part of an engine that it has no business being there in amounts to cause terminal damage!

You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink!:eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
Good parts don't come free.... There was alot of time in developing the Rx can, it's what's inside that matters. It isn't just a can. Sure it might seem high but it's quality USA workmanship that's designed to work with our trucks.... and like mentioned it's to protect our investment. I don't want no 20$ empty can that's putting more back into the intake then its catching. If you choose not to buy or protect your truck that's you and that's fine but don't try to knock a good product that's proven and maybe misguid some....

MPT tuned....Kings of the Street!
[email protected] & [email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
So buy a can...buy a bunch of stuff to modify it and spend hours doing said modifications to end up with a still subpar product. ...my time and money is valued. I spent money on a good truck. I put good oil and filters on it and do other things to maintain it to the highest level possible. I don't get the direct attacks on rx. It's uncalled for.

Sent from my F150 using boost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Fanboyism in full force. One day history will speak for itself. Oh. Wait. This just in. The ecoboost isn't the first direct injection turbo charged car. Yet other cars with di and a turbo still run. Crazy stuff.
Also, implying I'm selling something in an attempt to silence a differing opinion speaks volumes of the moral character of those who try to convince others to purchase something.
Once I have time to give you full responses with more evidence contrary to the nonsense being espoused in this thread regarding r and d of a simplistic device that does no more than trap condensation that doesn't actually hurt the engine I will do so. Not that the true believes will actually read it with an open mind. That's just silly.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
414 Posts
After installing the boost gauge a couple days ago, my eyes were opened to just how little time these engines run under vacuum. Above 35 mph my gauge sits at 0 more than less than. Gives me pause to think the pcv system could be less than as efficient as it needs to be. Thinking hydro lock would be an extreme but understand how the intake valves could be affected by having nothing in the inlet stream to keep em clean. When I was a machinist doing heads in the back of the parts store I saw thousands of intake valves shrouded in oily gunk in carbureted engines! Going to be watching this one a bit closer cuz I would kinda like to attain my goal of 300K on this one!
 
1 - 20 of 115 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top