Oil dipstick smells gas
- Status
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Joined
·
413 Posts
I recently had my oil analyzed and they found a trace of fuel in the oil. This was the second change on my 2013 and one thing I noticed both times is how rank the oil smells. A new engine might leak a bit of fuel into the oil for a while and I've heard these are no different. Keep an eye on the oil level for any growth. If you're growing oil, get it in immediately! Best time to check is in the same spot before starting for the first time that day. Congrats on your new truck. Really, you're going to love it!
Joined
·
124 Posts
What Mike said.
Direct injection engines are notorious for having some fuel dilution but as long as it doesn’t get out of control to affect the oils viscosity then you’re ok. Just keep an eye on your oil level to make sure it doesn’t grow.
Direct injection engines are notorious for having some fuel dilution but as long as it doesn’t get out of control to affect the oils viscosity then you’re ok. Just keep an eye on your oil level to make sure it doesn’t grow.
Joined
·
519 Posts
Its a misnomer to state that having raw fuel present in the engine oil is by design, normal, or an engineered feature of direct injection.
Direct injection is offered to the market from various manufactures in multiple engine models. Ford seems to be the only manufacturer with substantial quantities of owners reporting raw fuel in oil.
Direct injection is offered to the market from various manufactures in multiple engine models. Ford seems to be the only manufacturer with substantial quantities of owners reporting raw fuel in oil.
I took truck to dealership yesterday and was told that it is normal. So going to take your advise, Matt, and keep an eye on oil level.
Hope this issue would not spoil my impression of having my first F-150 ever (first pickup truck ever). Good luck everyone.
Joined
·
519 Posts
It's not normal, but it seems Ford's DI implementation allows this condition to occur. My wife's 2.0 Edge EB at 17,477 miles with 6,406 on the oil came back with a trace of fuel in the oil. Comments on the analysis indicated the viscosity tested more like 5w-20 when in fact it was 5w-30.
My previous DI vehicle from another manufacturer had 123k miles and never sampled with raw fuel into the oil.
It's unknown at this point if there are any long term negative effects from this condition.
What we know at this point is the trend that the fuel in oil seems to shorten the life of the oil additive package. Thus changing the oil more frequent than we would without the fuel in oil.
My sniff test on my 3.5 EB is inconclusive for fuel with 1600 miles on it. Though I won't be shocked upon first UOA if it comes back with fuel present.
Its something to keep an eye on.
My previous DI vehicle from another manufacturer had 123k miles and never sampled with raw fuel into the oil.
It's unknown at this point if there are any long term negative effects from this condition.
What we know at this point is the trend that the fuel in oil seems to shorten the life of the oil additive package. Thus changing the oil more frequent than we would without the fuel in oil.
My sniff test on my 3.5 EB is inconclusive for fuel with 1600 miles on it. Though I won't be shocked upon first UOA if it comes back with fuel present.
Its something to keep an eye on.
Joined
·
886 Posts
Thats the reason im going to change oil at 5k intervals.. Shouldnt have to worry to much in that amount of miles
Joined
·
850 Posts
i have been doing a 5,000 mile oil change for yrs now and never had a problem.
i get mixed answers when i ask around and have even heard to change oil at 3,000 miles and i refuse to do that for the price of oil these days.
2 things that work for me at 5k intervals are i dont ever need another sticker plastered to the window to tell me when oil change is due because i simply change it early or a little late to meet my odeometer reading and then go off that for any future changes.
the other thing is by the time i see 5k on an oil change it is starting to brown out some and usually getting a little low where it should be topped off anyway
my new 2013 eco does not have 5k on it yet but that is the routine i plan on trying to follow.
i get mixed answers when i ask around and have even heard to change oil at 3,000 miles and i refuse to do that for the price of oil these days.
2 things that work for me at 5k intervals are i dont ever need another sticker plastered to the window to tell me when oil change is due because i simply change it early or a little late to meet my odeometer reading and then go off that for any future changes.
the other thing is by the time i see 5k on an oil change it is starting to brown out some and usually getting a little low where it should be topped off anyway
my new 2013 eco does not have 5k on it yet but that is the routine i plan on trying to follow.
Joined
·
33 Posts
2 things: Boost, and rings. Your ecoBoost trucks have turbos on them. Turbos force 20psi more air into the cylinders. combine that with the piston compression, and theres a lot of force on the rings. Stock rings aren't as tight as racing rings, as they're designed for 200,000 miles. they are fit a little looser to reduce friction which helps the engine to run cooler and spin more freely for less fuel consumption. these things combined will get you some fuel in your oil. now, if you're a jackass like myself, and running huge turbos and a radical tune with a giant intercooler, you may see/smell even more fuel in the oil. Full-Race has new bottom end parts if it ever gets too bad. Change that oil every 5000 and run AmsOil 5w-30
Joined
·
1,303 Posts
lol how the hell did you revive a thread from 2013. I mean I just learned a lot so im not complaining.
Lol.
My second giggle this morning.
It's gonna be a great day!
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
My second giggle this morning.
It's gonna be a great day!
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Joined
·
2,992 Posts
I believe it's blowby that isn't getting evaporated due to making short trips in the truck and not getting it up to temperature every drive cycle. I agree with others, it should not be like this by design, however it is what it is. Are you running a catch can?
Joined
·
30 Posts
I don't think a CC is a fix all for this truck. It might help but it won't stop the blowby from mixing with the oil in the crankcase. Mainly a CC cleans the air before it goes back into the intake to help keep the valves clean. Oil dilution must be the cause of early engine failure in some trucks. How many of us watched the Ecoboost torcher test video? What I want to know is how many times did they change the oil and spark plugs in that test!
I don't know how many times, but I'm betting you are on to something.
I treat this motor like it's a high performance motorcycle engine because it DOES perform like one. (anything putting out 100+HP per liter)
So, throwing fresh oil and plugs at it far earlier than some manual suggests is just going to be considered normal to me. I don't consider it a nuisance at all. Been doing it all my life with little motors that work hard.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Joined
·
2,992 Posts
Never said it was a fix all. If the engine is allowed to reach operating temperature for some amount of time, I feel a CC would condense a lot of that gasoline out of the oil. We can agree to disagree, but if you consider the vaporization curve for gasoline, that crankcase will be full of vapors just waiting to condense at operating temperature. I think the other side of the coin is how fast are you adding the gasoline to the oil? If the removal rate is close to the supply rate, then you never really change the amount of gas in the oil. Seems like the OP has moved on to a Chevy by now!
Joined
·
30 Posts
No disagreement here, it concerns me a little because I bought the truck as my main family vehicle so it gets lots of short trips. Just saying that a CC doesn't stop the blow by from mixing with the oil down in the crankcase. A CC was one of the first things I did, but if its not setup right it could restrict and slow down the crankcase ventilation making the dilution problem worse. They clean the air after it leaves the engine. Whats needed is a way to better extract those fumes before they have a chance to contaminate the oil. I've been thinking on how to add a crankcase vent down low like at the top of the oil pan. then draw in fresh air down low and suck it out both valve covers. I worked on a car that was set up similar once, think it was a fiat.
Joined
·
2,992 Posts
What CC do you have? I have the RXP CC and I notice in winter I get a lot of volume of clear watery gasoline with about 1/3 oily, milky substance. So far now that temps have warmed up I am seeing very little in the can. Also it's more like oil, much less watery. This is all on very short trips as I work only about a mile from home. The RXP CC gets fresh filtered air from the air box and pulls it through the motor out the passenger side valve cover. Not sure about the others. Most of those vapors rise pretty quickly, so I don't think the vent location matters so much as does supplying FRESH air into the crankcase under all situations (ie, idle, boost, high rpms, etc.) I am by no means a CC expert, just sharing my experience with the RXP CC that I have. My oil never smells like fuel, nor has it ever gone up in volume.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
- Status
Join the discussion
