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Well I finally rolled it out of the garage and let it idle for a half hour missed the sound of this thing!
Expecting it will settle a little bit from here but this is how it sits now, just need to get the new tires on as well!

View attachment 170068

View attachment 170069
Did you go for a little drive to see if the shocks settled a little?


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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Did you go for a little drive to see if the shocks settled a little?


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No, still have to put some insurance on it and book an alignment and all that. I imagine by the time I get to the shop for the alignment it will have settled!
Still have to grease the lower ball joint and Dorman deletes assuming they didn’t come greased as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
Anyone have any clues. First time going for a drive with IWE’s and new clutch in the tcase and now when I switch the 4A or 4H I get a grinding sound similar to failed iwe’s I think
 

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If you loosen the axle nut in the middle of the rotor, You are supposed to spin the wheel to engage the IWE(the axle should be moving) before tightening the nut down
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
So with one side of the front of the truck jacked up, in 2wd I can spin the tire freely. Can someone confirm, when I switch to 4A I technically should be able to still spin the tire freely correct? Because the clutches only would engage if detecting slip which parked in my garage they wouldn’t.

Only ask because whether in 4A or 4H I can’t spin the front tire. It makes sense to me that I can’t in 4H but I feel like it should spin freely in 4A?!
 

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Did you reach out to Tyler? I’m not sure how much slip is in those clutches when in 4a


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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Even in 2wd, the axle should engage with the truck off because there is no vacuum being applied to the hubs
Because of the deletes vacuum should not matter anymore at the hubs!

regardless, because I had those worn 18’s on that I was waiting to swap I hadn’t thought to check they all measured out to exactly the same height. A local Ford mechanic buddy of ours reminded me to check that..The rears turned out to be 1/2” difference in height. He told me anything more than 3/8” difference will cause a problem.
I threw the summer 420’s on. Went for a quick drive and no more grinding noise!

170088
 

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This is EXACTLY what you just referred to....

(the very nature of the 4WD design on the F150 does NOT fair well with tires that do not have the same overall diameter)

Pretty fascinating actually




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2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 EgoBeast SuperCrew 4X4, 3.55 axles, 9.75" w/elocker
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Rotate them tires people.
 
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Because of the deletes vacuum should not matter anymore at the hubs!

regardless, because I had those worn 18’s on that I was waiting to swap I hadn’t thought to check they all measured out to exactly the same height. A local Ford mechanic buddy of ours reminded me to check that..The rears turned out to be 1/2” difference in height. He told me anything more than 3/8” difference will cause a problem.
I threw the summer 420’s on. Went for a quick drive and no more grinding noise!

View attachment 170088
Looks like a real truck again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
Well haven’t driven the truck at all, it goes for an alignment and tires Friday morning.
In the meantime once again thanks to @Blown F-150 for helping me get a Raptor Trans mount. Got it put in tonight, not sure I’ll feel the difference but figured why not.

For anyone curious about the physical differences, here they are next to each other.

170130


170131
 

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2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 EgoBeast SuperCrew 4X4, 3.55 axles, 9.75" w/elocker
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Reckon the Raptor mount has more ‘flex’ or ?
 

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Reckon the Raptor mount has more ‘flex’ or ?
Ummmm less? More robust. A stiffer poly?

I'm guessing because the Raptor is designed for "banging around" more than our street queens.

Not to be confused with the Raptor suspension, which is more travel and plush on the street in a way.

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