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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

First time post, been reading the threads for a few years learning. I might have over done it this time. I decided to upgrade my turbos about 2 weeks ago. And with that I decided to add a lot of other upgrades also since I was taking the turbos off why not just change every else that comes off also. My valve timing cover had a small leak so all that had to come off also. Heres a list of my upgrades

2012 3.5L 150,000 miles
KN intake
Garret powermax turbos with larger adapters
Full race intercooler with piping (which came with a throttle body spacer)
CR Exhaust manifolds
Full race down pipes
heart throb 4" exhaust
bully dog tuner
UPR catch can
BBK 73 throttle body not yet installed

I think that's it for the motor upgrades. So, the turbos had been experiencing some boost spiking and a loss of boost at high rpm. Around 1500-2000 rpm at 6 psi the turbos would randomly spool to 12ish psi and quickly return to 6psi. Under full load the turbos jumped to 30-35 psi but would drop to 20 psi with a stutter, and that scared me. I accelerated hard maybe 3 times after all upgrades were done about 2 weeks ago.

Today I replaced both waste gate solenoids and the boost spiking stopped, and when I accelerated hard to see if that issue had resolved the motor responded very well, maxing psi at 25 with no loss or stutter. So both turbo issues seemed resolved. It drove great, but then I tried one more acceleration and around 20 psi and 4k rpm at around 25-30 mph the intake manifold exploded.

I have been in cars when superchargers blew pistons and when motors seized. So once I heard the canon boom of this explosion I immediately tossed the truck in neutral and turned it off while still rolling down my rural road. AAA got the truck home. Now Im on a hunt for manifold options.

Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire Tread


So, I guess the point of this thread is, 1) has anyone seen this before? 2) Is there an alternative to plastic manifolds? (I can't find one) 3) How to prevent this again ...

I am not a mechanic. I am a DIY guy with decent knowledge but nowhere near an expert. I know I messed something up pretty badly but want to learn how to fix it, and not replicate it again.

Thanks for reading and providing any recommendations,

Colin
 

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That's amazing tbh and first I have seen something like that on this forum. I have also never seen a post about aftermarket intake manifolds, only exhaust manifolds. If you found a good fab shop I'm sure they could create a sheet metal one but I have no idea what that would cost or if it would even be worth it for a daily driver

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Nice! You’ll need to strap it down. Do you think it was just the boost pressure or an explosion in the manifold?
 

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First question is who is tuning it? You are way too high on boost levels, those turbos will flow more than the motor can handle over the long term at 19psi. In my case, I have a fully built motor and have pushed my turbos to 26-27psi and haven't busted a manifold, so you've achieved something unique, lol.

My suggestion would be to get another OEM manifold, get your tuning dialed in and enjoy.
 

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Yeah even 25 psi is very high nevermind 30. Thats double factory pressure and it probably damaged the manifold.
 

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Look around the cracked area, on both pieces, for a spot that isn't as clean as the rest of it. This would suggest damage before the entire thing let loose.

The only thing I could guess is that the throttle body bolts were too tight and started the issue. Or a weak spot in the manifold somewhere else.
 

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Almost 4 years as a member and it took a one off disaster to post. Ha ha. I don’t know how you kept so quiet. Maybe the manifold had a defect. With that much psi I’m surprised that the head gaskets didn’t decide to let go.
 

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I dont think the stock 2.5 Bar map can read that high actually. it should only be able to see 21 or 22 psi. Do you have a boost gauge?
 
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Lean misfire, explosion in intake...
 
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Use the OEM manifold. If you beef up the manifold, what about the bearings, pistons, rods, etc. ? The manifold is spec'd to handle what the internals of the motor can handle. Can't improve one and not expect to throw a rod. I think you need to decide if you want to limit the tune to keep the motor from killing itself, or if you want to build a custom motor, internals and all.
 

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2016 Ford F-150 XLT 2.7 Ecoboost 3.55 Axle
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Hey everyone,

First time post, been reading the threads for a few years learning. I might have over done it this time. I decided to upgrade my turbos about 2 weeks ago. And with that I decided to add a lot of other upgrades also since I was taking the turbos off why not just change every else that comes off also. My valve timing cover had a small leak so all that had to come off also. Heres a list of my upgrades

2012 3.5L 150,000 miles
KN intake
Garret powermax turbos with larger adapters
Full race intercooler with piping (which came with a throttle body spacer)
CR Exhaust manifolds
Full race down pipes
heart throb 4" exhaust
bully dog tuner
UPR catch can
BBK 73 throttle body not yet installed

I think that's it for the motor upgrades. So, the turbos had been experiencing some boost spiking and a loss of boost at high rpm. Around 1500-2000 rpm at 6 psi the turbos would randomly spool to 12ish psi and quickly return to 6psi. Under full load the turbos jumped to 30-35 psi but would drop to 20 psi with a stutter, and that scared me. I accelerated hard maybe 3 times after all upgrades were done about 2 weeks ago.

Today I replaced both waste gate solenoids and the boost spiking stopped, and when I accelerated hard to see if that issue had resolved the motor responded very well, maxing psi at 25 with no loss or stutter. So both turbo issues seemed resolved. It drove great, but then I tried one more acceleration and around 20 psi and 4k rpm at around 25-30 mph the intake manifold exploded.

I have been in cars when superchargers blew pistons and when motors seized. So once I heard the canon boom of this explosion I immediately tossed the truck in neutral and turned it off while still rolling down my rural road. AAA got the truck home. Now Im on a hunt for manifold options.

View attachment 174251

So, I guess the point of this thread is, 1) has anyone seen this before? 2) Is there an alternative to plastic manifolds? (I can't find one) 3) How to prevent this again ...

I am not a mechanic. I am a DIY guy with decent knowledge but nowhere near an expert. I know I messed something up pretty badly but want to learn how to fix it, and not replicate it again.

Thanks for reading and providing any recommendations,

Colin
If I were you, I’d replace the manifold with a stock one, and by gosh, get a good tuner! If you haven’t already, you should go read BoostKings OEM+ turbo build. He talks about boost on his bigger turbos is actually less than the stock ones because they are more efficient and don’t need as much boost to make the same power. Like @blownf150 said, 19 psi on bigger turbos is even almost pushing it. That’s like equivalent to 24 or 25 Psi on the stock turbos lol. You need some serious tuning to keep the boost spiking from happening and add that boost more in the top end as well.
 

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@Blown F-150 will recall a number of years ago when we met up with some other BC guys, that when we were reviewing some datalogs (in graph form) and we noticed that while my Boost was pegged at 21.5PSI, my AF Ratio was getting very lean (Lambda .92). The reason was I was getting far more boost than my OEM MAP Sensor could detect (2.5 bar).

So, yes I think it is very easy to go "over board" and develop far too much boost, and without a mechanical gauge or a 3 bar MAP Sensor, you may not know you are exceeding the limits of the 2.5 Bar Map Sensor.
 

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@Blown F-150 will recall a number of years ago when we met up with some other BC guys, that when we were reviewing some datalogs (in graph form) and we noticed that while my Boost was pegged at 21.5PSI, my AF Ratio was getting very lean (Lambda .92). The reason was I was getting far more boost than my OEM MAP Sensor could detect (2.5 bar).

So, yes I think it is very easy to go "over board" and develop far too much boost, and without a mechanical gauge or a 3 bar MAP Sensor, you may not know you are exceeding the limits of the 2.5 Bar Map Sensor.
Exactly. Thats why I asked how he knew he hit 30-35 psi. Even a 3 bar map would have been exceeded at 30 psi boost.

And yeah, if someone targeted over 22 psi in the tune then I have a feeling there would have been a boost runaway. The pcm would have been trying to hit >22 psi but the MAP would stop stop reading at some point and the PCM would just try and try to make the desired boost. Who knows how far it would have gone.

When I was tuning my Jeep liberty CRD, it had an 1800 BAR fuel rail pressure sensor. I would deliberately tune the rail pressure to 1750 BAR to make sure that if it overshot, it still had enough wiggle room to know that it had to come back down. If I set it to 1800 BAR, it might hit that and keep going and never come back.
 

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Yes you can get a aftermarket intake manifold but for what your doing it’s simply not worth it ,your talking in the $1000.’s probably about <3-4K which is simply nuts when compared to the same quality intakes for other motors/brands .. it’s simply over priced and aimed at those with Way too much disposable income, & or are aiming for a totally different RPM range..
not sure who tuned your truck but fire them if you messed with the tune fire yourself lol…
Bigger turbos are more efficient when compare to smaller turbos of the same Quality, and can push more air at a lower Psi you don’t need to push the boost as high..
A stock turbo will hit 20psi and level out at 16-17psi which is plenty on a stock motor..
For your intake to pop it may of been crack ,& or had to of had a lean back fire which makes sense since you haven’t made any changes to the fuel system plus probably pushing too much boost if I recall, plus I’m not even sure unless you had a gauge how you even saw above 30psi …I’m guessing it’s a mistake and probably incorrect Data…
Install a stock intake, a 30% fuel pump,& in tank 450 fuel pump(just to gain a safety margin) swap out your spark plugs one range colder gap correctly then do not drive it hard just rev it to check for damage, and only go part throttle until you can get the tune checked in fact I would install the stock tune which would allow you to drive it normally…
There are some decent tuners hopefully there is one close enough you can use a dyno ..
Good luck to ya
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the responses everyone.

I was monitoring the boost levels via the Bully Dog screen.

I ordered a new manifold and all the necessary vacuum lines that were destroyed. Visually the only major damage is the intake manifold but wont know absolute till I get the new unit in and installed. It was raining pretty hard on my day off work, but today was clear skies, unfortunately I work the next 8 days.

I have been trying to locate someone in the Seattle area who will tune for me but I havent found anyone interested. So I have turned to researching Brew City Boost's tuning capabilities with datalogging and their Highlander / McGyver tunes.

The fuel supply upgrades were on my list for next upgrades but I need to acquire some funds before ordering another 1500 on top of a tune package.

I read every word of BoostKings build thread yesterday and today. Lots of great info in there, some of which I dont fully understand but I got the main points he was making. Thanks for pointing that out, I had read it previously but now more of it makes sense.

My floor pan did not fall off this time, but I still owe Dom a ten second car ...
 
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