[sarapeterson87]

Hello,
We recently purchased a used 2011 F150 EB from a dealership and have had none of the problems everyone was talking about with the acceleration shutter and lose of power until about 1 month ago. We have 109k miles on it and bought it with 93k and the problem didnt start until around 105k miles. I see there have been alot of talk about the cooler or something like that and I was wondering when you took it in how long did it take to get that fixed? did they install the new "air blocker" guard?

Thanks for any assistance on the matter!

Sara

 

[jallen939]

A lot of people point straight at the CAC when it comes to the shudder because it is the most serious problem addressed by Ford (fttb) and prob the most serious problem you have experienced, but moisture wont cause erratic behavior that goes away when you dont hit the throttle, and "gulping" water from the CAC endcap if it were enough to really pound your motor out of wack would most likely create an immediate hydrolock condition which would not alow you to continue your trip without a flatbed tow truck. For these reasons I addressed this issue with new spark plugs, as it is really an ignition problem which will be more prevalent with lean mixture, advanced timing, or while under load/ high throttle. My advice is get new plugs (motorcraft iridium) and gap them properly to .030 and install. This should fix the problem immediately and give you a better driving experience all the time. If you still experience misfire issues under heavy throttle or have a check engine light/ stored code then you will be most likely looking at a coil pack. If you store a code and it is a coil pack, it will be really easy to diagnose and fix with a trip to auto zone. If you have neither codes nor light and it just happens when you hit the gas and really try and go then the plugs will fix it. FYI the wrech that may appear on your dash screen is not a CEL but rather a temporary "engine handicapped" symbol.

P.S. be careful with the electrical connector clips on the end of the ignition wires to the coil pack they will bother you just enough to break them...

 

[Tuner Boost]

First start with the plugs as jallen posted, gap at .028-.030.

If that does not do it seriously consider adding the RX crankcase evac system (it cures all the issues).