F150 Ecoboost Forum banner

1 - 20 of 59 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,472 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am throwing the eLock out and going with the Eaton Truetrac. I have an appointment with a local shop that has done this on a Gen 12 Raptor. So they have experience with this.

The one problem they have pointed out, I will get an error light when I remover the eLock. They didn't mention if the error light comes on permanently or if it happens only when I turn on the eLock and it finds there isn't one. I am going to test this weekend by crawling underneath, disconnect it and see what happens.

Does anyone know anyone who has done this and any tips or suggestions? If the warning light only happens if the eLock switch is pulled, I can live with that.

But if the light comes on immediately, regardless of the switch, what are my options to get the light to stay out. Putting a piece of Black Tape over it, isn't an option.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SrpRacing

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,241 Posts
Oh man I’m excited for this.

I believe Torrie can actually turn off the DTC for the E-Lock. I know I can with HP Tuners.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
628 Posts
Which size rear end is this going on?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,472 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The rear end is remaining as is 3.55. This isn't a gear change. This is swapping out the eLock differential for a proper LSD.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,472 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh man I’m excited for this.

I believe Torrie can actually turn off the DTC for the E-Lock. I know I can with HP Tuners.
I would prefer if I can turn it off, in such a way that if I ever go to trade/sell the truck in, that the new owner won't see the error code with the stock tune.

Hence, looking for either a Forscan method or a physical removal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,871 Posts
I would prefer if I can turn it off, in such a way that if I ever go to trade/sell the truck in, that the new owner won't see the error code with the stock tune.

Hence, looking for either a Forscan method or a physical removal.
Maybe switch to the non-elock dash knob and use forscan to turn off the elock.

I think the bcm has a setting for the various configs(2wd, 2wd+elock, 4wd, 4wd+elock)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,871 Posts
Sorry the setting is in the IPC module, not the BCM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Which size rear end is this going on?
I may be mistaken, but I think he's asking if it's an 8.8, a 9.75, or something else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,871 Posts
I may be mistaken, but I think he's asking if it's an 8.8, a 9.75, or something else.
All 3.5's come with 9.75's. Most 2.7's and some 5.0's came with 8.8's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,472 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry the setting is in the IPC module, not the BCM
Thanks @mass-hole I was noticing the 720-01-01 IPC module and you filled in a "missing clue". The comments in the IPC module for 2WD/4WD was throwing me.

But your comment above, actually made sense and gave me a clue.

The order is 0=2WD nada, 1=2WD ELD, 2=2WD PRB, 3=2WD PRB ELD, 4 =4WD, 5=4WD ELD, 6=4WD PRB, 7=4WD PRB, ELD (and so forth for AWD).


I am also going to try disconnecting the ELD from the rear diff, and see what happens? @Blown F-150 thought that as long as I didn't engage the eLock, that it could be okay.

My big problem, a couple of months ago, my laptop that had done all my Forscan work and BLMS died permanently, so I need to buy one of those again. As well, my SCT Livewire has given up the ghost too. And, I won't be able to reprogram my PCM back to stock. So I will need to send it to SCT (for a replacement most likely), then get SCT build me a new "stock" program (maybe this time I can use my old configs), and finally get all my tunes redone - again.

Bunch of extra money I have to spend, on top of the the actual Truetrac, and having to get that installed (which overall isn't that pricey). It's the "unplanned extras". But I am sure that when I am finished, that I will be glad I did, and wonder WHY I didn't do this before.

No more "hexadecagon" (16-sided) corners when the elocker is on!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Blown F-150

·
Registered
Joined
·
628 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: Mike2019SCrew

·
Vendor
Joined
·
1,523 Posts
I am also going to try disconnecting the ELD from the rear diff, and see what happens? @Blown F-150 thought that as long as I didn't engage the eLock, that it could be okay.
This is my understanding as well. The wiring for the factory eLocker is pretty basic (just power and ground), so as long as you don't pull the knob, you should not get an error.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,472 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This is my understanding as well. The wiring for the factory eLocker is pretty basic (just power and ground), so as long as you don't pull the knob, you should not get an error.
Thanks Jason. I am planning to go visit a buddy (I've had my shot now close to 3 weeks) and "play with this" and see what happens under various scenarios.

I am also going to turn it off, with Forscan. And further test it, and see what happens. I am hoping that turning it off, entirely disables the whole system and the module thinks my truck is just a 4WD (with or without a mechanical LSD).

Time for some fun, see what happens and let others know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
One other option is to measure the resistance of the solenoid that actuates the elocker in the differential. You could then wire in the same size resistor between the two wires that engage the elocker. It's probably just somewhere from 4 to 6 ohms and the error is thrown if no current flows. Just make sure to size the resistor large enough to dissipate the power ( Power = resistance x current²) when engaged.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Meep

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,472 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am not extremely knowledgeable about electronics, BUT if I find myself with a "error light" in spite of everything I tried with Forscan etc; I will definitely consider that route and want to chat with you more on this. As you appear to be knowledgeable on the what the various resistance and/or voltage needed.

I use to know that on one of my older EFI vehciles back in the 1990s. Before we could "crack" the ECM/PCM, we were using resistors and potentiometers to trick the ECM to either richen or lean out the mixtures (before we could do it with software).

The best one to richen, was to put a potentiometer into the MAT connector, and make the ECM think it was colder (richen) or hotter (leaner). WB sensor helped dial in the correct mixture. It all worked, until we finally got into the ECM and do the changes within the software.

But, using your idea, I may start with a potentiometer (I know I have one somewhere), dial it until the light goes out, take the ohm reading then replace with the exact resistor. I will definitely look at that route if the Forscan changes don't work.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sleipnir

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,924 Posts
So did you get the light with it just being unplugged? Or when pulling the knob to engage the locker?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,924 Posts
It might be as simple as finding a TCCM for a truck without a locker. It’s in the passenger side kick panel and pretty easy to swap.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
No problem. The key is measuring the DC resistance of the solenoid that engages the e locker. If you have a multimeter, just read across the contacts on your axle where the e lock connector goes. Once you have that resistance, the rest is easy.
 

·
Premium Member
2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 EgoBeast SuperCrew 4X4, 3.55 axles, 9.75" w/elocker
Joined
·
2,930 Posts
Is traction control affected at all with LS vs open ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,871 Posts
1 - 20 of 59 Posts
Top