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Just to add info for anyone looking at this thread in the future, and not to derail the thread. The inital post on page 1 references specific codes but does not tell which digit on which column (only references the row) to change. I backed out of as-built IPC and entered the regular IPC menu which just has the selection of drop down's to choose from. The locker selection is in there, and i changed it and no longer have the warning! Thanks for the info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Just to add info for anyone looking at this thread in the future, and not to derail the thread. The inital post on page 1 references specific codes but does not tell which digit on which column (only references the row) to change. I backed out of as-built IPC and entered the regular IPC menu which just has the selection of drop down's to choose from. The locker selection is in there, and i changed it and no longer have the warning! Thanks for the info!
I have used resistors and rheostats to trick electronics on Fuel Injected vehicles in the past. There is always a specific ohm setting when using a resistor.

Unfortunately, his post wasn't "Use this specific ohm of resistor". It was "About 4 or 6 ohms" which sounds more like a guestimate and why I didn't go that route.

Once a person understands how to use Forscan (Plenty great videos on Youtube), then when I have made the correct setting (5 to 4 in my case) , I can leave the whole connection together and avoid any grease or grime getting inside the connection. Especially under the vehicle with all the road garbage.
 
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I did the Truetrac on my 14 Tremor a couple years ago, just unplugged the elocker and installed it and also went from 4.10 to 3.31 gears which works PERFECT for my lowered 4x2 truck.
Did a boost gauge in the e locker spot and volt meter (because big stereo) in the cigarette lighter spot.
172207
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
I did the Truetrac on my 14 Tremor a couple years ago, just unplugged the elocker and installed it and also went from 4.10 to 3.31 gears which works PERFECT for my lowered 4x2 truck.
Did a boost gauge in the e locker spot and volt meter (because big stereo) in the cigarette lighter spot.
Mike, what did you replace the eLOC with? You would be one of the few people who removed their eLOC and installed a proper LSD.

When I updated the IPS with Forcan per post #11, it basically told the IPC that my truck is 4WD without an eLOC installed, so the IPC won't report an error on my dash when I get the Truetrac installed.

Actually the eLOC still currently works, but I got no dashlight reporting it was engaged. Now I have disconnected it and it does not report any error of a non-functioning eLOC, which happens when you swap out the Locker for a LSD on a vehicle originally with an eLOC installed.


Damn Nanny Aids. It's a reason I may not get a newer vehicle ... too many damn nanny aides. Luckily, Forscan is keeping up, and allowing people to turn them off.

Once I get my Truetrac installed, I do plan to experiment with disabling the Traction Control and Advance Trac via Forscan. I like the ABS, especially in winter, so I will keep that working.
 
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Can I ask why you did this?
Because I life in flat AZ and I have a lowered 2WD truck, at 70 I get 26 MPG. It's also much faster for drag racing with a 3.31 vs 4.10, turbos like to pull against a load.
Mike, what did you replace the eLOC with? You would be one of the few people who removed their eLOC and installed a proper LSD.

When I updated the IPS with Forcan per post #11, it basically told the IPC that my truck is 4WD without an eLOC installed, so the IPC won't report an error on my dash when I get the Truetrac installed.

Actually the eLOC still currently works, but I got no dashlight reporting it was engaged. Now I have disconnected it and it does not report any error of a non-functioning eLOC, which happens when you swap out the Locker for a LSD on a vehicle originally with an eLOC installed.


Damn Nanny Aids. It's a reason I may not get a newer vehicle ... too many damn nanny aides. Luckily, Forscan is keeping up, and allowing people to turn them off.

Once I get my Truetrac installed, I do plan to experiment with disabling the Traction Control and Advance Trac via Forscan. I like the ABS, especially in winter, so I will keep that working.
I didn't do anything, they just undid the wire and installed the gears and trutrac. I literally did no programming. Later as you saw we removed the dash switch and unplugged it and replaced with a gauge.
 

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Dang, this is the first I'm hearing of a numerically lower gear being faster. I just ordered a set of 4.10 gears, going from 3.15. Is this a bad idea??

EDIT: Mine's a daily driver, but (as you can see from the signature) I'm interested in power, and nevermind MPG. I definitely don't want to lose power swapping gears!
 

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Dang, this is the first I'm hearing of a numerically lower gear being faster. I just ordered a set of 4.10 gears, going from 3.15. Is this a bad idea??

EDIT: Mine's a daily driver, but (as you can see from the signature) I'm interested in power, and nevermind MPG. I definitely don't want to lose power swapping gears!
On a 10 speed truck I would think twice about going to 4.10's unless you are also going with 35"+ tires. The 1st gear on the 10 speed is pretty short, quite a bit shorter than the 6 speed, so as far as getting off the line you would be equal to an old 6 speed truck with 3.55's.

With 4.10's you would have a seriously low first gear and probably have trouble keeping traction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I didn't do anything, they just undid the wire and installed the gears and trutrac. I literally did no programming. Later as you saw we removed the dash switch and unplugged it and replaced with a gauge.
I have heard about this from others with 4WD F150s. Though I am uncertain of the years involved. As well as the shop installing my Truetrac, said they encountered that problem on a F150 4WD when they disconnected the eLOC (though they didn't mention the year). It may be a 4WD issue with specific years.
 

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FYI @Grim Reaper I found this on another forum
I love TruTracs in the front (ELD or locker in the rear). I've had 2 of them in different vehicles. Don't let anybody tell you they don't make one for our 8.8 diffs. I have one. #IFS 31SP TT-N. $560 for the part. Well worth it. A Detroit locker is amazing in anything but side-hill stuff.
 

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FYI @Grim Reaper I found this on another forum
I love TruTracs in the front (ELD or locker in the rear). I've had 2 of them in different vehicles. Don't let anybody tell you they don't make one for our 8.8 diffs. I have one. #IFS 31SP TT-N. $560 for the part. Well worth it. A Detroit locker is amazing in anything but side-hill stuff.
When you say 8.8 is that the original 8.8 or the super 8.8?

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When you say 8.8 is that the original 8.8 or the super 8.8?

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk
He was talking about the front diff which is a regular 8.8
 
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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Thanks @Blown F-150 and @mass-hole for your suggestions. I had my install delayed because they still haven't received the aftermarket Diff Cover so I can drain the fluid in the future without removing the Diff Cover. I even tried getting the Ford Performance Diff Cover (which is the one I REALLY want), and I couldn't find anyone having it available in stock. So I have one of those on back order too.

So I chatted with the shop that is doing my Truetrac, and we are going to reuse the stock diff cover, and replace it when either the Diff Cover the shop ordered OR the one I ordered comes in. I personally think it's a great idea, as I feel the fluid should be drained after a month or so, to see if there are any filings in the fluid. And 80W90 is cheap as heck.
 

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So I chatted with the shop that is doing my Truetrac, and we are going to reuse the stock diff cover, and replace it when either the Diff Cover the shop ordered OR the one I ordered comes in. I personally think it's a great idea, as I feel the fluid should be drained after a month or so, to see if there are any filings in the fluid. And 80W90 is cheap as heck.
We had a customer who just had his shop drill and tap a drain plug into both stock diff covers. He said it worked without a hitch, if you want to go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
FYI @Grim Reaper I found this on another forum
I love TruTracs in the front (ELD or locker in the rear). I've had 2 of them in different vehicles. Don't let anybody tell you they don't make one for our 8.8 diffs. I have one. #IFS 31SP TT-N. $560 for the part. Well worth it. A Detroit locker is amazing in anything but side-hill stuff.
I actually found the original post about that on another F150 Forum (with that above quote). But I could not find any part#.

I have scanned and searched Eaton's website. I do find a 8.8" 31 splice Eaton Truetrac 913A561, but I am not sure if that is for the front or the rear.

From what I heard the Truetracs are uni-directional. And you cannot use a Truetrac Diff designed for the rear on the front. I left a message for Eaton and I will see their answer. MAYBE we need a bunch of guys asking "Do you make a Truetrac for a 20xx F150 8.8" 31 Spline Front Diff"? It they get a bunch of guys asking, it may inspire them to make one.

So far, the only options I have found was a locker unit and a clutch-type from Yukon. With the Yukon LSD up front, it really makes the front feel heavy and greatly increases your turning circle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
We had a customer who just had his shop drill and tap a drain plug into both stock diff covers. He said it worked without a hitch, if you want to go that route.
Hey Jason, I already have two on order, one I ordered personally, and the other is by the shop. But it's unbelievable how hard it is to get parts now. I ordered some ARP studs and bolts for my manifolds back in February and I just got notified they are finally being shipped. This is Jegs.

I am sure they will come eventually. But this Covid AND that ship stuck on the Suez Canal has really thrown a monkey wrench into getting parts. And DO NOT ask me about lumber and building materials (my job). Our costs have tripled over our original estimates we gave to customers. Luckily, we had most pre-ordered.

I am still working on trying to find a front diff for my 2013 F150. I am almost ready to try and find the front diff from a wrecked Raptor.
 

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Hey Jason, I already have two on order, one I ordered personally, and the other is by the shop. But it's unbelievable how hard it is to get parts now. I ordered some ARP studs and bolts for my manifolds back in February and I just got notified they are finally being shipped. This is Jegs.

I am sure they will come eventually. But this Covid AND that ship stuck on the Suez Canal has really thrown a monkey wrench into getting parts. And DO NOT ask me about lumber and building materials (my job). Our costs have tripled over our original estimates we gave to customers. Luckily, we had most pre-ordered.
You're telling us. The backorders we're seeing from manufacturers are off the rails.

The tidal wave of raw materials shortages are finally hitting critical mass in our little sector of manufacturing and retail.

C'est le vie.
 

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I actually found the original post about that on another F150 Forum (with that above quote). But I could not find any part#.

I have scanned and searched Eaton's website. I do find a 8.8" 31 splice Eaton Truetrac 913A561, but I am not sure if that is for the front or the rear.

From what I heard the Truetracs are uni-directional. And you cannot use a Truetrac Diff designed for the rear on the front. I left a message for Eaton and I will see their answer. MAYBE we need a bunch of guys asking "Do you make a Truetrac for a 20xx F150 8.8" 31 Spline Front Diff"? It they get a bunch of guys asking, it may inspire them to make one.

So far, the only options I have found was a locker unit and a clutch-type from Yukon. With the Yukon LSD up front, it really makes the front feel heavy and greatly increases your turning circle.
You could always shoot him a message on that forum and see what he says.
 
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