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Your wrong. Rotational mass and static mass are two different animals that effect how an engine can apply torque to a situation
I am a mechanical engineer. Show me the math. Free body diagrams. Mass is mass. Inertia is inertia. It accelerates at the same rate on the wheel as in the truck bed.

Is harder to spin a heavy wheel faster than the vehicle is moving but no different when accelerating without tire spin/slip than if the added mass was in the truck bed.

You speak of torque as one who has only an internet/car magazine folklore understanding.
 

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2016 Ford F-150 XLT 2.7 Ecoboost
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Discussion Starter #45
This is a pretty good article about the effects of upsizing tires and rims. I would think on a truck where the upsize could also be 1", 2" or 3" or more taller would be a much bigger effect. At the same time the ecoboost builds more horsepower and torque to overcome these differences compared to a VW.
Effects of Upsized Wheels and Tires Tested (caranddriver.com)
Seriously? So if you get larger tires, the truck will make more power automatically to compensate?
 

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Seriously? So if you get larger tires, the truck will make more power automatically to compensate?
Did you read it? It says the opposite. Slows you down. I was saying it maybe a lesser effect on a 400 hp truck compared to a VW but still an effect, a negative one. Understand now? Obviously N4HHE has not read it either. I am surprised a mechanical engineer would state such a thing as no difference.
 

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Obviously N4HHE has not read it either. I am surprised a mechanical engineer would state such a thing as no difference.
I know right lol.
"I'm a mechanical engineer, blah blah"
But he doesn't understand sprung vs unsprung mass. Static weight in the bed does not equal rotating mass in the drivetrain...

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I'm no engineer, at least not these kinds, but all my life I chased performance and handling prowess on motorcycles. The common term was sprung and unsprung weight to differentiate what kind of weight increase would sap the acceleration and braking performance more.

Me eating too much pasta and gaining 5 lbs had an impact. I'm obviously on top of the suspension so I am sprung weight. 5lbs wasn't a big hit sprung.

But removing 5lbs from the weight of the wheels, or disks, or calipers, or...... Even the chain! Yes, dropping from a heavy solid and longer lasting chain/sprocket set to a lighter and shorter life span chain and sprocket set just might get you the hole-shot from that guy that keeps barely nudging you out to the first corner.

That also is likely less than 5lbs difference.

And ultra light rims? You can feeeeel the reduced effort it takes to.....well turn and lean and keep your line. That's probably not a perfect example of getting more power to the ground, but I think it is related?

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What year is it? 09-14 max tow pkg trucks had 3.73s. HDPP trucks had 4.10s. If it's not a max tow but just a standard tow pkg likely 3.55s.

In 15+ they dropped the ratio 1 size for max tow to 3.55s I believe.
I do have the standard tow package, as I can select the gears and lock it out, but alas, no 3.55. Again, the door sticker is the way to go.
 

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Like I stated after 2014 they dropped the tow package gearing by 1 ratio. So max tow in 2015+ was 3.55 standard tow pkg was 3.31.
 

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Sometimes I think I'd like to try a gear swap, might help me find that tire fire I've been looking for for years . I think I'd go 4.10 from 3.55 to make it worth the swap. I wish something like about a 3.90 was available. Maybe I'd go 4.10 and then up a tire size or two.

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4.10 with taller and wider tires and a good tune is what I want to start with when out of warranty. Then CAC, intake, exhaust. Mild leveling lift.
 

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I have the 3.73's with the stock size tires and I lock out 6th on the flat roads while towing ever since I got that Torque Pro app and ODBII plug in and can monitor my boost and coolant temps, along with a bunch of other stuff.. :)

The only time I let it go into 6th when towing is coasting down hill.. I use the buttons on the shifter to lock out the gears I don't want to be in.

I've often wondered what using the "M" feature would be like to run.. I know you select a gear and it just runs that gear no matter what.. But, I do like the 'automatic' part and just locking out what I don't want to use..

Anyway, love my 3.73's with the 6 speed for everyday driving and towing. But, I'm also old and my 'racing' days are long behind me.. (more or less...)

Mitch
 
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Discussion Starter #54
Did you read it? It says the opposite. Slows you down. I was saying it maybe a lesser effect on a 400 hp truck compared to a VW but still an effect, a negative one. Understand now? Obviously N4HHE has not read it either. I am surprised a mechanical engineer would state such a thing as no difference.
Oh, I see what you said, I was gonna say, actually, the bigger wheel and tire, the driveshaft and axle has a bigger thing to spin so in change it makes less power. That’s why my 2.7 is faster than a 2020 raptor, because I don’t have 35” tires, and I’m lighter. But hp to hp the raptor has loads more.
 
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Discussion Starter #55
4.10 with taller and wider tires and a good tune is what I want to start with when out of warranty. Then CAC, intake, exhaust. Mild leveling lift.
4.10 with taller and wider tires and a good tune is what I want to start with when out of warranty. Then CAC, intake, exhaust. Mild leveling lift.
Agreed, I personally like to have my bolt ons first then the tune. That way you don’t have to do as many revisions and customizations.
 

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I have the 3.73's with the stock size tires and I lock out 6th on the flat roads while towing ever since I got that Torque Pro app and ODBII plug in and can monitor my boost and coolant temps, along with a bunch of other stuff.. :)

The only time I let it go into 6th when towing is coasting down hill.. I use the buttons on the shifter to lock out the gears I don't want to be in.

I've often wondered what using the "M" feature would be like to run.. I know you select a gear and it just runs that gear no matter what.. But, I do like the 'automatic' part and just locking out what I don't want to use..

Anyway, love my 3.73's with the 6 speed for everyday driving and towing. But, I'm also old and my 'racing' days are long behind me.. (more or less...)

Mitch
That is my preferred method.
 

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Flat road. 3.55 at 79 mph is 2100 RPM And varies from 2 to 4 psi boost. Useless info king right here !
170880
 

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With the 10r80, 3:55 VS 3:73 is going to be difficult to discern.

Perhaps 0-1mph would be noticeable to the very sensitive, but don't think I'm one.

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I'll be ordering my '21 F-150 soon and I'm still undecided on which gear ratio to get. My configuration is a Lariat 502a Supercab FX4 with the 2.7. Towing will be a rarity, but I will be hauling a slide-in camper about 30% of the time and eventually full time when I retire. The truck will be within 100 pounds of its GVWR when fully loaded, so I want to make sure I select the appropriate ratio for a constant load like that. My head says get the 3.55s for better cruising fuel economy, but my gut says get the 3.73s so you can traverse mountain passes with authority.

I've only owned midsize trucks in the past, so I'm excited to get something more capable and I love the gen14 redesign. Any input would be appreciated.
What model camper?
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Can we get back to the topic of gear ratios?
 
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