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Agreed with Cam, the PTFE will handle much higher temperatures and will not break down like rubber will.

On my 15 there appears to be quite a bit more room between the heads and the firewall as opposed to looking at pictures of 11-14 models. I wonder if it was changed specifically for that? Or maybe I am just being hopeful.

I did find a bunch of things I had not observed before however, such as valve covers leaking slightly, vacuum pump leaking slightly, sigh. I need to do the timing stuff so I may just pull the motor completely out and do it all while it is on a stand. The motor is FILTHY too, so maybe it will behave after repairs and a bath!

I love this truck, but lord buying used has its issues. Haha
Yes. Same here. Valve cover and vacuum pump leaking oil on everything. Ended up replacing both. Also should have done the timing chain when I had it apart. Might have saved a lot of stress just pulling the cab or the engine. Lesson learned.
 

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I am not looking forward to it, mainly because I need this thing running as it is my daily driver aside from my issued work vehicle. However if I do not get it taken care of I may have bigger issues down the road. Sigh.

Will know more when I get off work Monday AM and get back into the shop.
 

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Okay....

Got mine completely torn down and a slew of parts ordered. As in I ordered various different adapters and fittings to see what will work perfectly on the BLOCK SIDE.

For sure the Banjo type fitting will not work on passenger side behind the AC compressor, but I am working an angle on an M18x1.5 bushing to 1/4 NPT then to a corresponding banjo or close/tight radius 90 to 6AN. The banjo WOULD work with a 1/4 inch adapter to get it out farther...but no joy on that just yet...still hunting and ordering adapters to see what works. When I find the perfect match I will do a writeup since this has been asked so many times.

On the driver side we have plenty of room for an adapter and a 90, so it appears...

Pictures shortly...

Stay tuned...
 

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171945

171947


Driver side block coolant fitting. Banjo or AN 90 with an adapter will work here.

171946

171948

171949

Passenger block coolant fitting, clearly needs a spacer in order for a banjo to work...

Will advise what I come up with.
 

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Just wanted to mention the back of head and turbos use a m14x1.5 thread. Maybe a typo when I read 9/16 ORB or boss adapter size. They are a similar thread pitch, but it is indeed a 14mm.

Pass side block- 2 m18x1.5 fittings for water and oil feed
Driver side block- 1- m18 x 1.5 fitting for water
Driver side block- 1- m22x1.5 fitting for oil feed
Rear of cylinder head (R+L)- 2- M14x1.5
Right and Left turbos- 4 - M14x1.5 (2 per turbo) one for water feed and one for water return to rear of cylinder heads per turbo.

Note:
*the one m22x1.5 is not just any m22x1.5. it uses an oring to seal and a crush washer cannot be used here unless it is perfectly the right size.

*the turbos need to use a crush washer and rear of heads should use an aluminum crush washer and not a thick one or copper.

The pass side should use a banjo style fitting to avoid the AC pump or perhaps a forged 90*deg adapter may work here.

Just thought I’d add to the info. Also smart to use fire sleeve on most of this stuff. It’s hot back there and on side of block under ex mani.

@RMB_Ryan - Ryan, you mentioned that the oil fitting on the block is a metric m22x1.5, however unless I missed something or you are working on a G2 block or one of your custom one off RMB units...its just an o-ring...where is the metric thread? Both on the turbo and the block? Not questioning your expertise...just looking at it...and not seeing it.
 

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Okay fantastic. 2 of the fittings only came with the hybrid washer. So they will go to the block. The rest of the fittings are trickling in, so today I should get some more pictures and an idea on the block side coolant fitment. Once its all good to go a write up with part numbers cost etc will happen. Thanks for all the help...and for letting me thread jack!
 

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Hi everyone. I have a 2013 F-150 ecoboost 3.5. Truck has 198,000 miles. I have a drivers side turbo coolant leak from one fitting on the turbo. I removed the turbo and have the new coolant fittings (2 total). I also have the one for the engine block.
My question is the one line and fitting that goes back behind the firewall on the rear of cylinder head. Has anyone ever replaced this without pulling the cab, engine, etc and if so how? When I moved the line up out of the way to remove the turbo I’m scared I may have damaged the o-ring in the fitting. The line is very loose and not only does it swivel loosely up and down but has slack rocking it side to side with my fingers. Worried I will start the truck and leak after all this work. I thought about comming in from the top of engine and looks like I could reach behind easier by taking the intake manifold off? What is the size of the fitting
Any help on how to do this is greatly appreciated!
Brian
Were you able to get to the fitting on the rear of the cylinder head? If so how ? Thanks
 

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Yes it is completely doable. Two ways you can do it….

One is to remove the inner fender liners from the truck and work that way.

The other is to remove the intake from the truck and go from the top.

Driver (left side) is the most difficult to get it either way you do it because of various things strategically placed that just make it plain difficult.

It can be done with some patience.
 

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Hi everyone. I have a 2013 F-150 ecoboost 3.5. Truck has 198,000 miles. I have a drivers side turbo coolant leak from one fitting on the turbo. I removed the turbo and have the new coolant fittings (2 total). I also have the one for the engine block.
My question is the one line and fitting that goes back behind the firewall on the rear of cylinder head. Has anyone ever replaced this without pulling the cab, engine, etc and if so how? When I moved the line up out of the way to remove the turbo I’m scared I may have damaged the o-ring in the fitting. The line is very loose and not only does it swivel loosely up and down but has slack rocking it side to side with my fingers. Worried I will start the truck and leak after all this work. I thought about comming in from the top of engine and looks like I could reach behind easier by taking the intake manifold off? What is the size of the fitting
Any help on how to do this is greatly appreciated!
Brian
Yes it is completely doable. Two ways you can do it….

One is to remove the inner fender liners from the truck and work that way.

The other is to remove the intake from the truck and go from the top.

Driver (left side) is the most difficult to get it either way you do it because of various things strategically placed that just make it plain difficult.

It can be done with some patience.
Thanks. I just replaced the 2 on the turbo because 1 was leaking. Now that I got it back together the one in the engine block is leaking. Luckily its the passenger side. Ill probably try the wheel well first. Which way do you think would be easier?
 

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On the passenger side, wheel well is my preference. If you have an inspection camera it makes it ten times easier. Set that dude up where it shows where you need to get to, then take your time with your pick and pull the jiffy tite spring clip out...remove and replace fitting, done!
 

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View attachment 168513
So i had to replace the exhaust manifolf, stud, and gasket and in the process these stupid coolant lines need to be moved and they are almost guaranteed to leak. Im sick of these stupid lines and mine needed to be replaced because the aluminum was pitted. So i replaced all the coolant lines with AN lines! No more leaks ever!!! Used size 6* and fittings and line. The turbo and therear most fitting on the block use a boss 9/16 adapter. However the fitting that is on the front of the block behind the a/c compressor (unbolted and moved out of the way) is a m18 1.5 thread pitch thread. So you need a m18 1.5 into a #6. If anyone needs more info on this i can get better information including part numbers
This is what I want to do!!! Part numbers please!!
 

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Will be doing a complete write-up with part numbers and pricing shortly. I just about have everything done along with pictures, etc. When it is completely finished I will post it.
@TangoMike415 - I've searched this forum up an down looking for more info as I'm ordering everything today to replace both turbos.. While I'm at it, I'd like to order things to do these lines but am 100% unfamiliar with AN lines and just want to be sure the lines RMB_Ryan and you have posted so far are correct.

Thanks in advance!
 

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View attachment 168513
So i had to replace the exhaust manifolf, stud, and gasket and in the process these stupid coolant lines need to be moved and they are almost guaranteed to leak. Im sick of these stupid lines and mine needed to be replaced because the aluminum was pitted. So i replaced all the coolant lines with AN lines! No more leaks ever!!! Used size 6* and fittings and line. The turbo and therear most fitting on the block use a boss 9/16 adapter. However the fitting that is on the front of the block behind the a/c compressor (unbolted and moved out of the way) is a m18 1.5 thread pitch thread. So you need a m18 1.5 into a #6. If anyone needs more info on this i can get better information including part numbers
Hi Dirtrider57,
I'm just now digging into a turbo coolant line repair, too, for my 2014 F150 3.5l ecoboost. I'm not a big fan of these rigid lines either! I pulled everything apart and was prepping for the upgrade to braided lines, but ran out of time ( I work out of town and need to get this rig back on the road). I'm working with a shop near me to upgrade these lines and reassemble. I'm committed to the idea of soft lines, and hope to make it work with a bit more input from someone who has already successfully completed this upgrade. Would appreciated any specifics you can provide in regards to fitting sizes, etc. I'm working the driver side turbo now, with a 170k miles on this engine. I'm using the same turbo, too, and plan on swapping out both turbos when one quits. Hopefully the soft lines will make it easier to swap out when that happens. Thanks ahead of time for any info you can provide.
 
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